Some things to observe.
Mind the polarity of capacitors, when placing new ones. For aluminium electrolytic capacitors negative terminal is marked with
a thick line on the side of the cylinder. You can see that on your photos. Use them as a reference.
The board seems to be covered in conformal coating. This will give you pain. You’ll have to remove it for soldering. For small area around the solder joints you can just scrape it off with something very sharp. Carefully, both to protect your fingers and the board. On the forum you can find threads discussing the topic.
If you’re going to desolder the capacitors, you believe a capacitor is a culprit, and don’t wish to do in-depth debugging of the problem, just replace them all. They are cheap and if one of them is actually dying, others are likely not in their prime either.
You did mention you soldered pipes before. Note that the solder used for pipes isn’t going to be good for PCB. It has no flux and usually is too thick for comfortable use in electronics. 0.7 mm to 1 mm solder, with flux core will do. Sn60Pb40 alloy is a popular one with low melting point.