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Test Equipment / Re: TinySA Ultra launched
« Last post by KungFuJosh on Today at 01:05:27 am »There's an option in the config settings for better accuracy OR cleaner signal. The glitches exist either way.
Recent Posts
2
Beginners / Re: Decent but cheap Trinocular stereo microscopes for soldering
« Last post by watchmaker on Today at 01:03:43 am »While I no longer sell scopes, this is a page from my site that will give you some hints on what to look for. It is targeted toward watchmaking, but the details apply to all scope buyers.
https://www.historictimekeepers.com/Watchmaker%20Microscopes%20for%20Sale.htm
https://www.historictimekeepers.com/Watchmaker%20Microscopes%20for%20Sale.htm
3
Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff / Re: 3D printing company similar to PCBWAY for circuit board
« Last post by sleemanj on Today at 12:51:43 am »As above PCBWay, also JLC does it https://jlc3dp.com/
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Power/Renewable Energy/EV's / Re: Totem Pole PFC is over-hyped?
« Last post by temperance on Today at 12:51:31 am »Quote
and its not a problem for them because you managed all three companies and saw software implementation for a hardware power systems control go down smoothly?
No I haven't and I certainly not stated it would be an easy task. On board chargers, server power supplies, gigantic LED walls with multi kW power supplies running parallel, 5...20 kW audio amplifiers for prof. use,... are the places where totem pole PFC's are employed. They all require a lot more functionality for which a micro controller is best placed. The shift to drive the complete power supply from a micro controller is nothing strange. TI has plug and play software available for a totem pole PFC which includes tools to perform a frequency response analysis without having to revert to soldering iron. I haven't used the TI tools but do have an infineon XMC dev kit to investigate those matters if time permits.
Here is what Faringdon stated:
Quote
For Totem pole PFC you will need a very good software engineer, who also understands the finer detail of high power SMPS.....and can implement software control loops for the current and voltage in the PFC......and every time you want to modify your power supply in some way, you'll have to have that software engineer still available to you.
See above and:
https://www.ti.com/lit/ug/tidue54b/tidue54b.pdf?ts=1714263250483&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F
Quote
its a crux if there ever was one. Treez is wanting to bleed less money. I can understand that, actually, and it makes sense that removing a software requirement would make things go smooth.He doesn't need to invest in software and build a totem pole PFC. Dev boards for totem pole PFC's with efficiency plots can be found from TI, ST, Infineon,... He must build his proposed PFC and prove everyone wrong.
Meanwhile totem pole PFC controllers which don't require software became available.
5
Beginners / Quickly Triggering Sensors - need an oscilloscope? what specs? (AU)
« Last post by nate_syd on Today at 12:47:27 am »I have a basic understanding of the fundamentals - but this sort of "specialty" equipment is a little beyond me.
I have 2 sensors that I need to trigger, possibly on the second rising edge (if its too hard I can do falling edge).
The process I need to do:
I'd like to be able to vary the 16 microseconds by 1/10th of a microsecond.
I'd like to be able to vary the 170 microseconds by 1/10th or even 1/50th? of a microsecond.
I just need to trigger each of the sensors with the times stated a few times.
Timing is critical - from my perspective, but this could be a walk in the park for "a low budget 10mhz oscilloscope"... i'm not sure.
Can this be done with an oscilloscope?
What would the specs required be?
If its pushing the limits of a 1mhz - then i'm assuming it would be better to go to 10mhz?
Is this a basic 2 channel scope?
any special functions/features required?
Looking for a good budget model, I wont go near non-branded rubbish that could be unreliable & inconsistent.
Something like a Hantek DSO2D15 looks to be ok for $350? (amazon)
If i could get a Rigol for an extra $50-100 then I would - but they look to be a lot more
Many thanks
I have 2 sensors that I need to trigger, possibly on the second rising edge (if its too hard I can do falling edge).
The process I need to do:
- Both sensors are held high @ 4.7v (ish)
- The first sensor transitions low for 16 microseconds
- The first sensor goes high @4.7v - Trigger event
- Delay of 170 microseconds
- Second sensor goes low for 16 microseconds
- second sensor goes high @4.7v
I'd like to be able to vary the 16 microseconds by 1/10th of a microsecond.
I'd like to be able to vary the 170 microseconds by 1/10th or even 1/50th? of a microsecond.
I just need to trigger each of the sensors with the times stated a few times.
Timing is critical - from my perspective, but this could be a walk in the park for "a low budget 10mhz oscilloscope"... i'm not sure.
Can this be done with an oscilloscope?
What would the specs required be?
If its pushing the limits of a 1mhz - then i'm assuming it would be better to go to 10mhz?
Is this a basic 2 channel scope?
any special functions/features required?
Looking for a good budget model, I wont go near non-branded rubbish that could be unreliable & inconsistent.
Something like a Hantek DSO2D15 looks to be ok for $350? (amazon)
If i could get a Rigol for an extra $50-100 then I would - but they look to be a lot more
Many thanks
6
Test Equipment / Re: Siglent SDS2000X Plus - Bugs / Missing Features / Feature Requests
« Last post by BillyO on Today at 12:43:52 am »Is there any reason or evidence to think that a screen saver is even required for this kind of screen? 
The backlight is LED, so it's not likely to ever wear out, as it were.
The backlight is LED, so it's not likely to ever wear out, as it were.
7
Beginners / Re: What function generator, that does a bit more than just a simple signal
« Last post by Doctorandus_P on Today at 12:43:11 am »The box is indeed mostly empty, but it's size is still manageable. Unlike benchtop DMM's. These still have the same form factor as 40 years ago, but are mostly empty too these days, and I just do not have room for a 35cm deep empty box on my desk.
The power adapter that came with my JDS6600 was utter garbage, and I threw it in the bin. On the plus side, there is plenty of room in the box to add decent a power supply in it.
The power adapter that came with my JDS6600 was utter garbage, and I threw it in the bin. On the plus side, there is plenty of room in the box to add decent a power supply in it.
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Test Equipment / Re: Siglent SDS2000X Plus - Bugs / Missing Features / Feature Requests
« Last post by KungFuJosh on Today at 12:41:09 am »Is there a reason the screensaver doesn't shut off the backlight? Doesn't seem like it's doing a lot of saving if the backlight is still on.
9
Beginners / Re: Decent but cheap Trinocular stereo microscopes for soldering
« Last post by Doctorandus_P on Today at 12:28:56 am »I bought an Amscope (clone?) from Ali a few years ago, Price including shipping was around (below?) EUR400.
If you are cost sensitive, but can make things yourself, then I recommend to buy the microscope head only and make the rest yourself. Accessories are relatively expensive, and not of very good quality. Just the Z-adjustment for example costs around EUR65, a simple stand (which I bought) around EUR100, and the big boom thing itself is a few hundred EUR. Just have a look at what the parts cost on Ali. They are also sold separately.
Handy parts to have are a 0.7x Barlow lens (I have a 0.5x, but now the eye pieces are quite high above my desk. Also get yourself a ring light with an integrated glass plate. This protects the lenses from solder fumes and spatter. When you use a (replaceable) Barlow lens, this is not very important, but if you want to use it without a Barlow lens the underside of the microscope is open (or at least add a piece of glass / filter there.)
I bought the simple stand "to get started", and with the Idea to make a more luxurious stand myself, probably with MGN12 rails, and very likely some stepper motors. If you put stepper motors on both the Z-distance and zoom, then you can write a simple microcontroller program that takes two potentiometer inputs. One for zoom, and one for focus, and then when you change the zoom, the uC keeps your object in focus by also adjusting the Z-height. Uc also can adjust the light. There is a very big difference in brightness between zoomed in and zoomed out. The difference is big enough to be (slightly) annoying, and I tend to adjust the brightness when adjusting the zoom level.
When you DIY, a built in fume extractor is also nice t have.
If you are cost sensitive, but can make things yourself, then I recommend to buy the microscope head only and make the rest yourself. Accessories are relatively expensive, and not of very good quality. Just the Z-adjustment for example costs around EUR65, a simple stand (which I bought) around EUR100, and the big boom thing itself is a few hundred EUR. Just have a look at what the parts cost on Ali. They are also sold separately.
Handy parts to have are a 0.7x Barlow lens (I have a 0.5x, but now the eye pieces are quite high above my desk. Also get yourself a ring light with an integrated glass plate. This protects the lenses from solder fumes and spatter. When you use a (replaceable) Barlow lens, this is not very important, but if you want to use it without a Barlow lens the underside of the microscope is open (or at least add a piece of glass / filter there.)
I bought the simple stand "to get started", and with the Idea to make a more luxurious stand myself, probably with MGN12 rails, and very likely some stepper motors. If you put stepper motors on both the Z-distance and zoom, then you can write a simple microcontroller program that takes two potentiometer inputs. One for zoom, and one for focus, and then when you change the zoom, the uC keeps your object in focus by also adjusting the Z-height. Uc also can adjust the light. There is a very big difference in brightness between zoomed in and zoomed out. The difference is big enough to be (slightly) annoying, and I tend to adjust the brightness when adjusting the zoom level.
When you DIY, a built in fume extractor is also nice t have.
10
Beginners / Re: Convert US standard 115V to International 230V
« Last post by soldar on Today at 12:25:14 am »I asked if the design would have to be marginal before there was a problem? And you replied, yes, the design would have to be marginal. So I don't see any disagreement here?We are in agreement in everything. I was not referring to these specific PSUs but rather to a general statement that voltage or frequency do not matter ever. That is too broad and needs some qualification. I am well aware that it has been determined the PSUs in this case do not need any adaptation.
To avoid generalization, the power supplies in this case are specified with an input rating of 85 - 264 V AC or 120 - 370 V DC, and an AC frequency range of 47 - 63 Hz. There is also a derating curve for low voltages. It is to be assumed that they will perform to specification.
One other thing, the equipment which is the subject of this thread is not a medical life support device, it is something along the lines of an advanced gym machine, somewhat akin to a sophisticated treadmill. There is no danger to life or limb if it stops working for any reason.