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1
It's not that the default option is auto-play, I already know it is.  It's that the button itself has vanished.
2
Make sure the pins and solder joints are ok.

I think you should read the readme, check this:
https://github.com/deividAlfa/stm32_soldering_iron_controller/blob/master/Readme_files/Programming.md#stm32-not-recognized-error

Your board is identical to the last one I bought, replaced the mm32 with no issues at all!
nRST pin goes to C4 in your board.
3
Beginners / Re: cable shield to PCB?
« Last post by T3sl4co1l on Today at 12:48:35 am »
Foil yeah you don't have much choice. You can make do with mesh tape and whatnot, but it might not stick very well or whatever.  It might also not fit into such connectors as well, and you get gaps and extra flex that way, etc.

Tim
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Buy/Sell/Wanted / Re: Canceled Because Thread All Shit Up by "tggzzz"
« Last post by T3sl4co1l on Today at 12:47:02 am »
Sad to see a nearly 10 year member drive a new member to such an emotional outburst leading to a ban.

It seems your approach needs an adjustment.  You provided your input at which point the OP made it clear they didn't want you to engage further, yet you essentially relentlessly continued.  You seem more like a bully than a contributor.

    I don't know which 10 year member you are attempting to blame this one but you can't blame this on just one person (other than perhaps the OP).  A lot of people (pretty much every reply) were skeptical of the OP's claims and asked questions and pointed out the OP's misleading statements.

   If the OP didn't want to engage further, then all he had to do was to ignore the thread.

There is a difference between tactful critiqueing and, well, what we had here.

Let alone simply inquiring for further information -- perhaps they have those data and just neglected to provide it.  Admittedly a remote possibility, but one that must be tried before dogpiling on.

And once one rudeness has been perceived, the sharks circle, things only get worse, and the battle for civility has been lost.  The very first replies have a moral duty to be polite, for they set the tone for the rest of the thread.

I suspect there's a lot of undiagnosed and unrealized ASD, I mean in electronics in general for one, but more particularly among members here.  It is necessary to present facts (or point out the lack thereof), yes -- but it is not sufficient to do only that, especially when doing so with a tone of voice that reads somewhere between frank and condescending.

I don't say this just to chide, or lecture.  I say this from personal experience, and I'm sure a lot of people here are even more keenly aware of it than I am... It's something I've practiced all my life, to varying degrees of success, as I notice even from posts just a few years old, on the occasion I happen across them.  It's a skill that can be forever improved, and is particularly difficult to master as few if any people are interested or willing to critique ones' interactions (aren't you supposed to figure that out in grade school? what could be more basic? ah, but what indeed).

Tim
5
Mains transformer-powered soldering stations, old ones were not wound split-bobbin and the high winding capacitance pri-sec means an ungrounded tip floats up to more ACV than you would like. Again, a 1MEG doesn't do much.
Modern split-bobbin transformers have very low interwinding capacitance and are not really an issue, very low stray voltage.

I think it may depend on how the soft-ground is implemented.  On mine, for example, the base station is still grounded and the secondary side is not electrically connected to the tip at all.  My 1M resistor is actually right at the connector.  If I connect a DMM to ground and the tip, the voltage (0.53) is less than what I measure with the DMM probe waving around unconnected (but the other one still at ground) which is 0.72VAC. 
6
Test Equipment / Re: Choosing between entry-level 12-bit DSOs
« Last post by mawyatt on Today at 12:44:46 am »

Mike, you of anyone will know how large orders of expensive IC's can dramatically reduce BOM costs.

It's all about quantity......

Exactly, but even so, selling a DSO of this calibre and maturity at this price point is like getting a Porsche for the price of a Kia :-+

And we know what the Porsches cost :o

Best,
7
How do people think of the ADP2230 versus the AD3 (Analog Discovery 3), for somebody learning/starting out?

I did watch the teardown video above (although ), and also the only other video about the ADP2230 I could find from @knitronics (). However, a lot of it probably went over my head.

From what I can gather:
  • They're both 2 channels - if I want 4 channels, I need to go up to the Analog Discovery Pro 3000 line
  • The ADP2230 has slightly higher bandwidth at 50Mhz versus 30Mhz
  • the ADP2230 has physical BNC connectors already built in (versus needing to use a BNC breakout for the AD3)
  • the ADP2230 programmable power supply has slightly higher output (1A versus 800mA)

The AD3 is $379 ($249 with a student discount)

The ADP2230 is $749 ($636.65 with a student discount) - so there is a bit of a jump in price.

Is the ADP2230 worth the extra money here (even at the student discount)? What do people think?
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The model I have has been made this year. Also version 1.37.
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Repair / Re: FLUKE 8920A RMS AC meter failure needs help
« Last post by daisizhou on Today at 12:32:32 am »
Thanks.

I tried replacing a 50 ohm resistor,Fluctuation seems to improve after startup.But as long as I press the "LO RANGE ENABLE" button, I see it still fluctuates,I don't know if this is normal or an error occurred.
Please watch the video

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Beginners / Re: Oscilloscope recommendation
« Last post by bdunham7 on Today at 12:28:48 am »
I'm an automotive mechanic by trade. I have recently been tasked with dealing with all the more complex electrical diag work at the shop. I have limited experience with an oscilloscope.

Two questions for you:

1.  Can you give 3 to 5 specific examples of how you would use an oscilloscope on an car or truck?  By specific, I mean make/model/year and exactly what the issue is and how you would use the scope to test.

2.  Are you an IATN member?

If both answers are simply "no", then I'd recommend you buy some cheap piece of junk that you can learn with.  You don't need exceptional performance for automotive work but the mains-powered lunchbox style scopes you are considering would lead a rough life in an shop.  Battery power, handheld and reasonably durable are pretty standard requirements.  The Picoscope 2204A would be my recommendation in most cases and having the laptop attached is a huge advantage IMO, but apparently you disagree.  If you had trouble using a Modis (which is what I presume you were referring to) then you have some work to do.  Just getting a signal on the screen is only the first step of effectively using a scope in your field. 
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