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Beginners / Xiaomi 3S phone repair or recovery
« Last post by mobby_6kl on Today at 09:53:15 pm »
My mom dunked her phone in the sea a few years back. The phone I *think* is a Redmi 3S (https://www.gsmarena.com/xiaomi_redmi_3s-8150.php). There's no model name anywhere, on the board it says "52A130 B20003 3G+32G+B" and it has a Qualcomm MSM8940. The schematics match the 3S the best though. The phone's been replaced a long time ago of course, but there might be a few days worth of vacation photos there so I thought it might be fun to try and get it working or recover the data at least for her birthday.

I replaced the USB board which was the only one with visible damage (there were signs of ingress at the SIM card slot, but no corrosion visible on the motherboard) but it didn't make it work properly. When connected to USB, it'll turn on, the logo will appear on the screen for a few seconds, and it'll restart. I responds to the recovery mode (power+volume down) but gets permanently stuck on the Android Fastboot logo. Not a fan of these symptoms TBH as on PCs this could often be caused by bad RAM or corrupted BIOS or storage and I feel like that'd be next to impossible to solve on a phone.

A more straightforward issue is that it's not charging the battery, so I hope it might have some power circuit issues that is also causing the above problems. The battery is at 3.8V now.



This is where it starts to get interesting. I don't see 3.8V anywhere on the board with the battery (and not USB) connected. Measuring between TP33/34 and TP36, or the two sides of C501/C502, or the diodes, it's only around 2V. This would explain why it won't turn on from battery, only with USB. I don't really understand how this is possible though unless there was a short, but there isn't as far as I can tell. I checked the caps (I know it can be problematic in-circuit) and also attached a power supply to the test points, and there was 0 current draw.

Any ideas what else I could check here? Thre's another section of the board around U0501 which is the main power management IC but it looks more complicated so I want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious here.




The schematics I found here: https://secyukle.com/dosya/uploads/schematics/Xiaomi%2BRedmi%2B3s%2B%28land%29%2BSchematic.rar



An alternative would be to just read the data directly from the eMMC. The schematic make it look pretty easy, other than the whole BGA situation, which I'd rather not deal with yet.
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If you can restore it to the point of shiny green solder resist then it is probably safe to re-use. If there is any material burnt into the surface, then not.

Please be more careful.

Thank you very much for your reply!
By the way,I finished to scrub most of deposit from damaged soldering pad(#1 pin of STR-S6707) and It looks like below screenshot.
https://i.ibb.co/xsCQsNv/IMG-20240508-050458.jpg
It seems that some soldering pad(#1 pin of STR-S6707)have been peeled off and It revealed looking burnt plastic PCB surface.
But Aside from that,I think there is no more damage on this soldering pad(#1 pin of STR-S6707).
Then, Is it probably NOT safe to re-use?
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Mechanical & Automation Engineering / Re: low temperature coolants?
« Last post by notsob on Today at 09:44:40 pm »
try ethylene glycol 100% ( ie car antifreeze ) they used it for cooling in WW2 aircraft, should be cheap enough and readily available for you to test
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Beginners / Re: 6V Old Motorcycle - LED Lighting
« Last post by Zero999 on Today at 09:44:38 pm »
I don't have a link because I bought it from my local supermarket. I took one to pieces and it would be fine up to higher voltages.

Have you tried it without the boost converter? One of the pictures says it'll work down to 8V, so it's worth a try.

It also says it'll work up to 80V and your voltage source is AC, so you could try a diode and capacitor voltage doubler circuit.

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Beginners / Need help identifying IC of a latched on off module
« Last post by Arek_R on Today at 09:36:17 pm »
Hi all,
I'm looking for simplest compact IC that will switch power on/off via momentary tactile button.
I found this module from ali:

Except the LED and dropper resistor, it's just 4 components + button.
Any ideas what IC is that 6 pin package?

Here's the ali listing spec from the description:
Quote
Power supply voltage: 2.2-5V DC
Standby current: 0.5uA
Continuous current: 0-2A
Size: 15x15 mm
Power on reset: After power on, the default output is turned off, and after pressing the switch, the output is turned on.
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The relevant jitter should be mainly for time intervals of some 1-10 µs. So a little more than just period jitter and still not really long time jitter. It is probably kind of a mix of the short and long pulse lengths in the run-up modulation. The point is how the PWM ratio changes from the nominal.
In the frequency offset plot this would be a frequency offset of some 100 kHz - so not very close in, but also not period jitter.

In most cases the actual oscillator should be less of an issue. A limiting factor could be the actual switch part. Here jitter specs are rare. The more precision type switches are usually slower than typical logic chips and thus more jitter is expected there. I selcted the 74LV4053 not just for low cost, but also for a good speed.
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Test Equipment / Re: New Hantek DSO2X1X models?
« Last post by DavidAlfa on Today at 09:32:33 pm »
I haven't tried the newer fw yet. Does rolling back to an older version fix it?
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Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff / Re: DIY Digital Caliper
« Last post by MitkoDyakov on Today at 09:20:28 pm »
I was looking at this schema on electronics stack exchange. Which seems to be what I need given the fact that I would power it from 3V



And I build a prototype... a few prototypes



The ones I designed were tragic. I have questions for the design from stack exchange and they are the following:

1. How do I choose values for C1 and C2
2. I understand why R1 and R2 are there, but I don't get why some people choose Mohm values for them but here 10k is fine
3. I did not had MCP6021, but I did had MCP6V11. Is there anything special about MCP6021?

And for people who will ask me about pictures from the scope. The "thing" had nothing resembling the original signal, looks random noise at 1.5V 50mV peak to peak.
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Metrology / Re: Hioki DM7276-01 Precision DC Voltmeter (9 PPM)
« Last post by Alex Nikitin on Today at 09:16:21 pm »
Here is another measurement result using the DM7275, in this case I was trying to do a 1000:1 transfer of resistance, from Fluke 742A-10K to my 10 Ohm DIY shunt (made using a TO-3 packaged Vishay Foil resistor). The Keithley 263 is used as 1mA current source to supply the Fluke and 10R shunt in series, the voltage on the Fluke was monitored by HP3456A and was stable at 10.00046V (double checked with the Hioki), the Fluke 742A-10K has a measured resistance of 10.00005K so the current was about +41ppm from 1mA. As a control option the ESI SR1010 resistor was used as a 10R shunt in place of my DIY one. Despite some meters of cables and numerous connections, the circuit offset at the shunt was measured below +/- 50nV average, 250nV p-p variations (the Keithley 263 has some useful features to change the current polarity and also switch it on/off so it was easy to measure offsets without disturbing the wires and connectors). The graph below shows two 15min runs with two 10R shunts in this configuration. The temperature variations (measured by Hioki) were below 0.5C). A linear trendline was added to each run to indicate a possible drift in time. Vertical scale is 100nV /div (=10nA/div, or 10ppm of value) , horizontal is samples/time , 1min/div, (=15 samples).

Cheers

Alex
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