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Beginners / Re: Microscope for repairing phone boards
« Last post by jfiresto on Today at 05:55:57 am »
Got it.

If you believe the trite military maxim that time spent in reconnaissance is never wasted, I can think of are a few more aspects you might research about a microscope that have not yet been been raised:
  • lighting
  • zoom range
  • depth of field
Field of view and work piece size-and-roughness are equivalents of the latter two. For example, a typical specimen my father would survey and inspect was the size of a bowling ball.
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Shorted?  I don't understand.    Oh, you mean only the pin2-to-pin36 pair was shorted.  That may be acceptable since pin 2 and pin 17 aren't normally connected; ie. may serve an internal structural need.

I used the word short (which they were), but it could have been a bit misleading. The follow up somewhat clarified they are suppose to be "shorted" since I followed the trace showing they are connected electrically.

I see. I think you should ignore pins 2 and 17 for any testing purposes since the schematic has them unconnected.

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I'm only thinking out loud and NOT rejecting testing the VFD and also elaborating a bit. Upon first powering after installing the new chip and the display worked, the DC/DC was not getting warm at all. It was actually cold. If the VFD had a short, rhetorically asking, why would the 518 continue working and the DC/DC staying cold? Also, this display worked fine (ignoring the bad segments) until I began installing the replacement 518's somewhat implying the VFD isn't shorted and something funky is going on with these new chips.


I agree that on first power up, given that the display is working, does seem to confirm that the filament nor the grid and segments aren't too much of a load on the driver chip.   However, testing the display out-of-circuit will confirm that there's no excessive draw. ie. that a 47R filament resistor, 10K segment and 10K grid resistors is enough to light a segment. And to iterate over all grids and segments to confirm there isn't a bad one in the bunch.

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Upon repowering, it's not even the display shows something for a brief moment, it just doesn't come on at all, the DC/DC begins getting warm, and the +38V never goes beyond approx. 12V. I did notice the +38V takes time to discharge when I turned off the unit after the first power up and wonder if this is an issue.

The failure mode in my opinion indicates the IC is latching, but, if it's latching, why does it power fine the first time (unless the +38V taking long to discharge after the first power up/down is a hint).


All I could find in the HV518 datasheet (page 11, section 3.2) is that Vdd (+5V) should be powered before Vpp (+38V) and Vpp should be powered-down before Vdd.  Maybe by adding a 10K resistor between Vpp and ground will provide a minimal load (3.8mA) to drop that rail before the bulk caps drop the +5V rail.

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+5V ---47R filament resistor--- pin1,  then pin 18 to ground.
+30V ---10K grid resistor--- Gn pin  (where n=1 thru 12)
+30V ---10K segment resistor--- SEG_m pin  (where m=A thru Q, DP1, DP2, COMM)

I'm scared of blowing up the VFD, so I want to confirm.

Connect +5V to to pin 1 with a 47ohm resistor in series. Pin 18 gets connected directly to ground?

Yes.  See attached diagram.
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+30V to Gn pin with a 10k resistor in series - obviously to pin 1 - 12 one at a time. The ground on the +30V channel also gets connected to pin 18 (or the ground banana jack on channel 1 that's being used for +5V)?

Yes.  See attached diagram.
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Now I take the same 10k that's connected to (let's just say G1) and also touch it to segment A (then B, C, etc...) at the same time? I know this is the answer because segment A can't light until a G line activates the proper digit, but I want to make sure. One wrong move with the VFD and I'm really in trouble.

A different 10K (from +30V) to the segment of choice.  See attached diagram.

Note, the grid and segment voltages don't have to be exact; just not more than +38V.  It should light with anything north of 20V.
Just make sure that the filament doesn't see more than 100mA (hence the 47R).  And if you do find a segment or grid that won't light with a 10K resistor in series, then lower it no more than 330R (ie. no more than allowing 100mA on any grid or segment).
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On a side note, I may have only one IC left. So one more failure, and I'll be ordering more and/or repairing pads that eventually lift.

It sucks to find out the hard way.
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PowerPoint meets all the bullet-points that were mentioned, but for sure it's not a 'pro' tool, it's just an easy-to-use tool (mostly!). I can't say if it is quick to use or not, because doing some stuff 'just right' will take time, depending on if one is a perfectionist or not. But if you don't make perfect the enemy of good, then PP can be very quick to create understandable diagrams of the type you showed. I'm just mentioning this in case PP had been written off as a viable option or not, that it might still be worth persevering with, if some of the features of it are unknown.

Going through the bullet-points that were mentioned:
* Regarding clipart/images, PP works nicely with Snagit. Clean up images (and remove background etc) with Snagit, and then paste into PP.
* Text can have outlines, shadow etc with PP
* Custom callouts can be created using the shape addition feature in PowerPoint. For instance, combine a rectangle with an arrow. The shape addition/subtraction etc is very empowering generally.
* Use the 'Curve' shape to draw lines approximately. Then, refine them using right-click and Edit Points. It takes a bit of practice but you can usually make it follow your preferred path almost entirely with this method.
Biggest downside is that the curve doesn't connect to other objects, so you could be tweaking often if the lines are placed too early in the entire diagram. As a result, I mostly rather use straight lines, or elbow connectors, since these will stretch elastically if connected objects are moved. Often you need the connector to attach at a different location on an object, and there are two ways to do that; (a) by right-clicking on the shape and select Edit Points and then add a point, or (b) [easier] draw a smaller simple object, like a triangle, with the apex at the location where you want the connector to join. Group the objects. Now connectors will attach to the apex. After you're sorted, send the triangles to the back, so they are not visible. That technique works very well for putting connections onto arbitrary parts of a photo for instance, and then send them to back after the connections have been made.
* Stripey insulation wires can be done by drawing a line or curve, giving it a thickness and a color, and then copy-paste it, and change the line style to dashed, change its color, and then drop it on top of the previous line. Admittedly not straightforward, but the result is good. This works with curved lines and the connector lines.
* The resolution from PP is excellent. There is some registry hack googleable to export at very high resolution PNG, but a simpler (lazier : ) approach is to just use a very high-res monitor, go to slideshow mode, and then use Snagit to capture the high-res output directly from the display, rather than an image export.

That technique that @Nominal Animal mentioned earlier about thin breaks where lines cross, is something I've found useful too, there's also a slight variation which is to use the 'glow' feature (with color chosen to be white) to give a usually invisible outline to some wires, which becomes visible at crossings.

If you look at the color diagrams that were in an earlier comment (before the long distraction of color-blindness) all those diagrams used many of the PP techniques just mentioned (for instance you can see a glow around a wire, use of connectors with hidden triangle apexes to anchor points, and there's also an example of where curved lines were made to join different parts of schematics, where the 'edit points' method was used to make it follow a path). Lots of copy/paste and the alignment and distribution tools within PP are great to speed things up. One other tip to speed up diagrams, is to keep all the 'best bits' in a single ppt file, for reuse. For instance, if you've already created handy callout boxes or particular overlays for photos etc., then you can use bits from that file as a template many times. I often do that with shapes that I created, like batteries, logic gates, even coiled wires of several colors! (since it can take a while to create that initially); it becomes a convenient palette of tech images/icons for your future requests that come up.

From my limited use of Visio, I get the feeling that it has a lot of flexibility too, and probably more powerful for diagramming, but I just happened to pick PowerPoint and got used to many of the features within it, that I now have trouble using Visio for anything but standard diagrams (e.g. flow charts etc).


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Two observations of things for you to bear in mind:

The diode forward voltage quoted will likely be at full rated current; it will be less at the cutoff rate you specify (meaning if you assume 0.525V and it's actually 0.3V, you're charging your cell to 4.3V)

Charging a lithium cell to the nuts may be necessary for a capacity test, but it is rarely desirable otherwise
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If they can make CPU's with billions of transistor's for a few hundred dollars, why can't they make through-hole JFET's that are well matched and predictable, and maybe for less than $1 each, before shipping.

They can, but not for $1 unless you want to buy huge quantities.  Companies like Linear Integrated Systems make matched monolithic dual N and P JFETs, and MOSFETs and bipolars, for different applications.

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I think I've asked that before, and I think the answer was no one besides old hobbyists care about JFET's, especially not through hole ones.

They are still used in precision analog and audio applications.
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Beginners / Re: pH glass electrode input path
« Last post by Faranight on Today at 05:34:44 am »
Back in the days I used an INA116 for this purpose, which is a femtoamp instrumental opamp with included pins for guard rails, but the part has been NRND-ed since. See, if Texas Instruments offers any more up-to-date parts.
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Test Equipment / Re: Magnova oscilloscope
« Last post by core on Today at 05:22:16 am »
Seeing a few photos of the interior is not reverse engineering. I think you're going too far.
I want to buy it, not make it.
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Yes, i already read it completely.
Unfortunally there is no mention of AP6 except for the typical values. P03 is not mentioned altogether.
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Repair / Re: Help Identifying this SSOP4
« Last post by Ingineer on Today at 05:13:23 am »
Thank you, Awesome!
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Computers / Re: Soundbar for Laptop
« Last post by RoGeorge on Today at 05:11:52 am »
Never heard of soundbar, maybe you want to search for audio equalizer (or Audio EQ).  Should be plenty of free audio equalizers to download and use for free, even for Windows, but I don't know for sure because I didn't use Windows since many years ago.

Since you are using headphones, a headphone amplifier with a tone equalizer + physical potentiometers for tone corrections might be an interesting option, such that the same headphones amplifier + tone EQ device would work on any computer without heaving to install anything.

Aside from the above 2 options, an external USB soundcard based on Creative chips might be interesting, since these used to have loudness correction, tone correction, voice emphasizing, voice Crystalizer, voice whisperer and other DSP corrections/enhancements included in their drivers.  The effects panel I remember from windows was something similar with the one in the attachment.  Don't know the US price, but I expect second hand USB Creative Soundcards should be cheap (because previous models went out of fashion), yet still perfectly working.
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