Long time base, everyone send 100E to my account
It requires big modifications in the code.
In long base mode 100ms/div, rendering on the screen takes a lot of time. if the time and voltage cursors are active, it is already very close in time.
When saving the WAV course, it is possible to activate cursors in it and measure with them.
The video shows where the process was saved to the file. A jump is visible in the given part.
Data in long mode are continuously written to a 3000-byte buffer. Next, it is possible to save this entire buffer in a wav file and view it later.
The original firmware cannot do anything. A wav is like an image.
The long mode is almost functional, it's just necessary to remove many small errors that arose due to inclusion in the flood code. There is always a possibility that there is a big mistake somewhere. The test was with a periodic signal.
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v0.022o version only for testing the autosetup function
The parameters for negative voltage are identical to the table above. With one big BUT... When performing autoset for the ranges 200mV, 1v, 5v (two-rank), the "0" mark goes down the screen, but should go up. You have to pull it out with your finger
https://youtu.be/wY5TosP4008
Do you want a battery indicator in percentages? 95...90 ...85 But the value will fluctuate.
personally, i would prefer exact voltage instead of %
Do you want a battery indicator in percentages? 95...90 ...85 But the value will fluctuate.
personally, i would prefer exact voltage instead of %
With a 6 bit ADC using only half of the range it won't be very exact.
What is the procedure to erase part of the screen?
When you close the trigger menu, a copied part of the flood screen will remain there. In the same way, even when leaving the wav or image viewing mode, the fragment that was under the main menu will remain on the screen. how can I delete it effectively?
Ah yes, that is right, the menu's save the screen part used for the menu before displaying the menu, and on exit copy the saved part back. This to avoid redrawing the whole screen.
Erasing can easily be done by writing black pixels to a section of the screen with one of the display functions, but you would still need to redraw the grid etc. I believe the section of the display is copied into a second screen buffer, so it is possible to setup a new screen in that buffer and overwrite the saved bit.
Looking at your pictures makes me think that you keep on sampling even when a menu item is open, which is not the case in short time base operation if I'm not mistaken. This means you would have to check in your code that builds up the screen if a menu is opened and if so also update in the second screen buffer.
Don't pin me down on this, because it is all from memory. Did not look at the code.
ok trigger menu my mistake.
To find out, the main menu does not work from the beginning (v0.006), when leaving the picture or wav menu and the slow sampling rate, you can see the artifact on the display until it is overwritten.
When someone wants to see what's new. So the unfinished beta version here v0.023c
It is still necessary to make support (long time base) for the trigger in single and normal mode.
Add the possibility of a time delay for the trigger.
Do you want a battery indicator in percentages? 95...90 ...85 But the value will fluctuate.
personally, i would prefer exact voltage instead of %
With a 6 bit ADC using only half of the range it won't be very exact.
that is sad
but anyway, better than battery symbol, which is constantly jumping from full to 3/4 even after overnight charge. this is annoying....
.....
that is sad but anyway, better than battery symbol, which is constantly jumping from full to 3/4 even after overnight charge. this is annoying....
In mine the battery connector also is a cause of fluctuation. Has been connected and disconnected so often that it became crap.
Have not used any of these cheap two bit scopes since the reverse engineering.
I have already removed the pins and tensioned them.
Have you tried the new firmware version?
.....
that is sad but anyway, better than battery symbol, which is constantly jumping from full to 3/4 even after overnight charge. this is annoying....
In mine the battery connector also is a cause of fluctuation. Has been connected and disconnected so often that it became crap.
Have not used any of these cheap two bit scopes since the reverse engineering.
i have them both (fnirsi 1013 and 1014d) for a purpose - there will be no regrets in case of accidental burn
I work with high voltage , so this could happen (and happens) sooner or later. also , galvanic isolation from AC is important. at the moment of purchase, i thought that 1014d is a "big bro" version of 1013, but the same (maybe even worse) shit in fact...
I have already removed the pins and tensioned them.
Have you tried the new firmware version?
No not yet. Busy with my own project of a remote control system for fischertechnik.
i have them both (fnirsi 1013 and 1014d) for a purpose - there will be no regrets in case of accidental burn I work with high voltage , so this could happen (and happens) sooner or later. also , galvanic isolation from AC is important. at the moment of purchase, i thought that 1014d is a "big bro" version of 1013, but the same (maybe even worse) shit in fact...
I bought my 1013D to use as a small device on my computer bench to measure output from my digital synthesizer project I was working on. Unfortunately it arrived with a defect in the touch screen, which started the whole reverse engineering ordeal. Bought another one to be able to compare my version of the code with the original, without having to swap between them on the same device. Got the 1014D as a gift from someone and started on the reverse engineering of it, but got fed up with it and left it as is.
For most of my MCU work I use either my Rigol or my Yokogawa scope. Much better devices.
Also have a Hantek DSO2D10. Bought that as a possible project because it uses the same MCU. Use it once in a while to do some quick measurement. Better than the FNIRSI, but not perfect.
Hello, please tell me how to record firmware through a card reader without connecting the oscilloscope to the computer. The program for flashing gives a message on the photo shows
Calibration of ch2 860 50mv value 0 fails. Tried 2 times to calibrate. And when I press the off usb screen it gives hieroglyphics
Hello, please tell me how to record firmware through a card reader without connecting the oscilloscope to the computer. The program for flashing gives a message on the photo shows
I'd like you to reformat it. You must use FAT format. And it must be done in mbr mode only, not gpt mode.
Calibration of ch2 860 50mv value 0 fails. Tried 2 times to calibrate. And when I press the off usb screen it gives hieroglyphics. Firmware 023c
Calibration of ch2 860 50mv value 0 fails. Tried 2 times to calibrate. And when I press the off usb screen it gives hieroglyphics. Firmware 023c
0.022f it's working fine
The same situation. The m-SD card is filled with "00", then formatted in FAT32. FW was reset to the original (Fnirsi), then filled with v0023c. Calibration was successful. But the calibration constants for ch2 50mv are zero. Channel 2, 50mv/div range does not work. The “beam” does not move, the voltmeter does not display values, and does not manually select limits. When the voltage increases to 210mV and the autoset is pressed, it switches to the 100mv/div range and starts working as it should.
And when 23c is uploaded and the calibration is not performed, does it work?