Now I have this identify request. This is a used deuterium lamp from a BioRad FPLC . I want to identify the connector because it is really nice and solid feeling. It would come in very handy for some stuff if I can source it for a decent price. My guess is no based on how nice it feels and how expensive the instrument is but it would be good to know either way.
It's made by Binder-USA. Looks like their 682 series, but I can't narrow it down without knowing the connector size, termination type, etc.
That is really damn impressive, I would never have guessed that was just a B. It most certainly does look like the 682 binder connector. Thanks a bunch mate!
Except for the fact that the "C" in that logo would be backwards... X-D
(That said, LC actually would be the initials for a company that does connectors: L-Com) [Not in your connector's case though.]
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Hello!
I bought a cheap current and voltage monitor YB27VA 1.5 (1% error).
I cant find the main IC. i think is a MC, but the IC doesn't has any label.
I found some info of an old version.
http://we.easyelectronics.ru/upgrade-repair/voltmetr-ampermetr-yb27va-v13-i-ego-versii.htmlI updated the schematic and start to looking for the pin out ... Microchip, Atmel and ST.
i find nothing with same pinout (Vcc, Vss, Analog imput, etc...).
Some one remember this Vcc and Vss pinout in a MC?
Thx!
Your pictures are not public available. That, or the URL is wrong...
Lets start with identifying the package. Looks like a 20 pin SOIC but maybe wider.
You will need to measure width & length accurately.
Just from the fact that VDD/VSS are 1/20 and two ADC inputs 18/19, and pin 4 is grounded, I'm going to guess it's a PIC16F6xx with disabled MCLR.
Just from the fact that VDD/VSS are 1/20 and two ADC inputs 18/19, and pin 4 is grounded, I'm going to guess it's a PIC16F6xx with disabled MCLR.
But 16F631 has VDD in pin 1 and VSS in pin 20, and this IC has VDD in pin 20 and VSS in pin 1.
Lets start with identifying the package. Looks like a 20 pin SOIC but maybe wider.
You will need to measure width & length accurately.
yes a SOIC 20 12,7x7,4 mm.
thx!
But 16F631 has VDD in pin 1 and VSS in pin 20, and this IC has VDD in pin 20 and VSS in pin 1.
From https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/60/ S3F94C4/S3F94C8 is a possible match.
Yes! i think you are 100% right
YB27UA S3F94Cx
Vcc = 3V 1,8 to 5,5 V @ 0.4 - 4M Hz(LVR disable)
at least 10bits ADC 10-bit conversion resolution
PIN 18 and 19 ADC ADC0 and ADC1
Internal oscilator Internal RC: 3.2MHz
Pin 4 as I/O config. P1.2 is used as input only. Or nReset.
20 pin SOIC pack. 20-SOP-375
Thanks a lot, the same MC in two cheap chinese circuits.
What are these DPAK devices?
Two "F5T" and two "F5T" with underscore. One of them has blown.
Couldn't find anything in SMD code catalogs.
They are on MediaVision MV 4000 PREMIUM 3D vintage sound card.
I have some white coax cable that Comcast dropped off. I'd like to put new ends on it - but want to make sure I buy the right crimps.
It is labeled "Amphenol CTFC-T10 4002132 6 series (ETL) US CATV 18 AWG" - does this match a more common style of cable? Maybe RG-6? Or is there a reason I wouldn't want to use this cable? I'm worried that one mention of it I found online suggested it was goo filled for outdoor usage.
What does "new ends" mean? F-connector? BNC?
Nobody in the universe is in a better position to determine whether it is "filled with goo" than YOU are.
Clearly the goo doesn't prevent Comcast from properly terminating it.
There tends to little or no information about these kinds of cable because they are used only by cable companies and never sold to other customers.
It is probably similar to RG-6. But good luck identifying compatible connectors if you can't even identify the cable.
I have some white coax cable that Comcast dropped off. I'd like to put new ends on it - but want to make sure I buy the right crimps.
It is labeled "Amphenol CTFC-T10 4002132 6 series (ETL) US CATV 18 AWG" - does this match a more common style of cable? Maybe RG-6? Or is there a reason I wouldn't want to use this cable? I'm worried that one mention of it I found online suggested it was goo filled for outdoor usage.
Any Comcast coax I've ever seen has been normal RG6. I've not found any "goo", though I believe some F-connectors may have a sealing gel inside to help prevent moisture entry. I wouldn't use crimpers, though. Most every coax I've seen for many years uses compression connectors.
What does "new ends" mean? F-connector? BNC?
Nobody in the universe is in a better position to determine whether it is "filled with goo" than YOU are.
Clearly the goo doesn't prevent Comcast from properly terminating it.
There tends to little or no information about these kinds of cable because they are used only by cable companies and never sold to other customers.
It is probably similar to RG-6. But good luck identifying compatible connectors if you can't even identify the cable.
I want to put new F connectors on it to change the length. I was hoping to not have to chop in to the cable first in case I'm not able to terminate it (ie it being a strange style).
Any Comcast coax I've ever seen has been normal RG6. I've not found any "goo", though I believe some F-connectors may have a sealing gel inside to help prevent moisture entry. I wouldn't use crimpers, though. Most every coax I've seen for many years uses compression connectors.
Interesting - I had not been aware that some connectors were compression, and others crimp. Doing some reading it sounds like compression connectors are much better for outdoors, which is where I'm installing this. To install compression connectors you need the compression tool, right?
I've attached photos of my cable (I have a bunch of this, not just the one roll). Is that RG-6? Is there a way of telling?
Thanks!
F connector outdoors needs sealing with self amalgamating tape and then a coat of regular insulation tape over it, all sealed with liquid electrical tape. I use it all except the liquid tape ( insane price here for it) and the connectors come apart easily after a decade outdoors. Regular twist on non crimp f connectors and no problems. Just tape the connector, the socket to the base and the cable for about 1 inch along the PVC insulation.
As you have already guessed, re-terminating this cable is not nearly as easy as you think it is.
I seriously question why you even want to shorten the cable, especially if it is going outdoors.
The very many significant risks of attempting this far exceed any possible benefit you would achieve.
Yes, you would need a compression tool to properly install a compression connector (assuming you can find one that will fit the cable in the first place.)
And then you ALSO need some sort of weather protection as SeanB has stated.
I want to put new F connectors on it to change the length. I was hoping to not have to chop in to the cable first in case I'm not able to terminate it (ie it being a strange style).
Any Comcast coax I've ever seen has been normal RG6. I've not found any "goo", though I believe some F-connectors may have a sealing gel inside to help prevent moisture entry. I wouldn't use crimpers, though. Most every coax I've seen for many years uses compression connectors.
Interesting - I had not been aware that some connectors were compression, and others crimp. Doing some reading it sounds like compression connectors are much better for outdoors, which is where I'm installing this. To install compression connectors you need the compression tool, right?
I've attached photos of my cable (I have a bunch of this, not just the one roll). Is that RG-6? Is there a way of telling?
The strange ends are just plastic knobs that are added to conventional F-connectors to make the connectors more finger-friendly for quick setup by customers.
Are you planning on using these indoors? If so, it's quite easy to re-terminate them with compression connectors, but you'll need several things to do it well: compression connectors, stripping tool and compression tool. You should be able to buy what you need at Home Depot or Lowe's. An Ideal brand compression tool runs about $15, stripper tool is about $15, connectors are about $6 for 10 connectors.
http://www.homedepot.com/s/coax%2520compression?NCNI-5http://www.homedepot.com/p/Steren-2-Blade-Rotary-Coax-Stripper-ST-204-205/205315702http://www.homedepot.com/s/f-connectors?NCNI-5And you'll want a pair of wire cutters, of course. Since you have several of these cables, cut the end off of one of the cables and have a look. Check out some of the
videos. It's actually kind of fun making up custom coax.
I want to put new F connectors on it to change the length. I was hoping to not have to chop in to the cable first in case I'm not able to terminate it (ie it being a strange style).
Any Comcast coax I've ever seen has been normal RG6. I've not found any "goo", though I believe some F-connectors may have a sealing gel inside to help prevent moisture entry. I wouldn't use crimpers, though. Most every coax I've seen for many years uses compression connectors.
Interesting - I had not been aware that some connectors were compression, and others crimp. Doing some reading it sounds like compression connectors are much better for outdoors, which is where I'm installing this. To install compression connectors you need the compression tool, right?
I've attached photos of my cable (I have a bunch of this, not just the one roll). Is that RG-6? Is there a way of telling?
The strange ends are just plastic knobs that are added to conventional F-connectors to make the connectors more finger-friendly for quick setup by customers.
Are you planning on using these indoors? If so, it's quite easy to re-terminate them with compression connectors, but you'll need several things to do it well: compression connectors, stripping tool and compression tool. You should be able to buy what you need at Home Depot or Lowe's. An Ideal brand compression tool runs about $15, stripper tool is about $15, connectors are about $6 for 10 connectors.
http://www.homedepot.com/s/coax%2520compression?NCNI-5
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Steren-2-Blade-Rotary-Coax-Stripper-ST-204-205/205315702
http://www.homedepot.com/s/f-connectors?NCNI-5
And you'll want a pair of wire cutters, of course. Since you have several of these cables, cut the end off of one of the cables and have a look. Check out some of the videos. It's actually kind of fun making up custom coax.
This is going to go outside, but on a covered patio in California (read: barely any rain). So I suspect I don't need to go too crazy with the weather protection (but I could be wrong!)
This is going to go outside, but on a covered patio in California (read: barely any rain). So I suspect I don't need to go too crazy with the weather protection (but I could be wrong!)
Yeah, you should be fine. Use silicone (electrical) grease on the inside of the threaded portion, and paint some RTV on the outside of the connector after it's tightened in place. Ideally, you could wrap the outside of the connector with self-vulcanizing tape -- either the normal electrical (thick) type or the thin type (they sell it in plumbing to seal up leaky pipes) should last you quite a while.
Hey guys, any idea what this IC is? It's on a cheap $1 boost regulator from China. I've googled the numbers with every combination of words I can think of and nothing...
31 E12
Same IC, same indentations, PN 31-E12... Aliexpress
Nice! Now to find a datasheet…
I contacted the seller, and he sent the attached datasheet.
I've got quite a few (10,000?) ICS612G-01T, that I'd like to be able to either use, or toss with a clear conscience.
They're from ICS (Integrated Circuit Systems ), date-coded 0407, so just before IDT bought out ICS.
TSSOP16 package, and I'd imagine they're a crystal oscillator stage, and a couple (or more) PLL stages, possibly programmable by pin strapping, or maybe (ideally!) programmable by i2c. It'd be nice to be able to drop them into designs where I can cope with oddball frequencies...
Office and company moves mean I don't have paper databooks from that era, and searching has come up dry, apart from people in far-off lands who want to sell me their stock.
So: Has any kind soul got, or got access to, ICS/IDT timing products databooks from 2007 or a bit later? ICS216G is what I'm after...
I'd be happy to barter a reel of these parts, or something else from my stash, for an answer!
Cheers!