Got mine yesterday evening, haven't "played with it" a lot yet (it is for certain a toy) of course. However I can confirm the following (in no special order):So all that said, and as what I will likely use it for (automotive, motorcycles, etc.) does not require an X10 probe or 100 MHz bandwidth, I think I will keep it. It's portability alone makes it a worthwhile tool. I's too bad the makers feel they need to lie about it's specs.
- It is as cute as a bug's ear;
- The capacitive touch screen UI is quite nice, responsive and nicely configured;
- It triggers properly on aperiodic bursts usin 5 bursts of a 1 MHz pulse at a 100 kHz repetition rate.
- It does not have a usable bandwidth of anywhere near 100 MHz;
- In X10 mode and mucking about with the probe's compensation I found I could create an incredibly non-linear "peaky as hell' response that might perhaps pass a 100 MHz signal--this may be how the rice-burners that market it justify their "100 MHz" and "< 3ns" claims;
- It is as cute as a bug's ear;
- In X10 mode the vertical input characteristics are different at each sensitivity setting--making X10 mode even more useless;
- The FFT math function does nothing but provide a vertically constrained, fixed position, non-calibrated, non-adjustable, clipped off at the top picture of the waveform's spectral content--it is more annoying than useful;
- The battery seems quite capable of meeting the 4 hour runtime claim;
- The user manual is horrid, tiny, incomplete and obviously written by someone with an only partial command of the English language;
- It is as cute as a bug's ear;
- The -3 dB bandwidth in X1 mode (using just a 50 Ω BNC patch cable) is 20 MHz;
- I have no way of measuring the sample rate, however I seriously doubt it is 1 Gs/s;
- Within it's real capabilities the display is very nice;
- It runs well when charging via the supplied wall wart, however when connected to the USB charging station also powering my function generator or my desktop computer it goes haywire--some ground loop issue I suspect;
- It is as cute as a bug's ear;
- Mine is branded Yeapook, though in the Amazon ad copy it was shown as being FNIRSI;
Did I mention it is as cute as a bug's ear?
Would you mind dumping the winbond SPI flash and posting it here? It would definitely help with reverse engineering it! I've ordered one but it's coming on a human-powered boat from China...
I just bought one too
Even with all the lies, bugs and limitations, I find the concept to be excellent.
I sometimes need to "see something" in hard to reach places or when I am not in the lab.
When we just need to see if the clock signal is here or if we have our RS422 pairs at the right place, no need for the big 5000€ scope balanced on the crimping pliers.
The fact that we can increase the battery capacity is great, the big 7" screen is also great, no fan. I hesitated with a handled oscilloscope but I find them very expensive.
If I like the concept, I think it will lead me to buy a Micsig tablet oscilloscope but the small form factor of this little Fnirsi is very very nice.
If they make their code open source, they can sell millions, I think.
It need a small silicone protection and a more expensive 50 € model with real 500 MSa/s
Would you mind dumping the winbond SPI flash and posting it here? It would definitely help with reverse engineering it! I've ordered one but it's coming on a human-powered boat from China...
I would be pleased to; how do I go about doing so? What do I need?
Would you mind dumping the winbond SPI flash and posting it here? It would definitely help with reverse engineering it! I've ordered one but it's coming on a human-powered boat from China...
I would be pleased to; how do I go about doing so? What do I need?
Awesome! You'll need a CH341A (preferred) or a Raspberry Pi (any model) or, as a last resource, a blue pill board.
If you don't own any of those devices you could order the CH341A on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/JW-USB-Programmer-CH341A-Burner-Chip-Writer-SOP-Clip-Adapter-EEPROM-BIOS-FLAS/233635841518), but in that case I think it's not worth it as I'd probably get my device before you get the programmer. However, if the open-source firmware comes along nicely and you want to flash it, you'll need one of those devices too, so it's not wasted money
In case you own a CH341A, you will need to connect it to the SPI memory and dump it using the provided software.
In case of using a Raspberry Pi, a software called "flashrom" can be used to use the GPIO as the interface to the SPI chip. (https://www.flashrom.org/RaspberryPi)
With the blue pill board it's more tricky to do.
In all cases, the CPU will need to be held in a reset state in order to free the SPI bus for the programmer to use it. The only other way is physically de soldering the SPI chip from the board.
PD: To hold the CPU in reset, pin 70 needs to be shorted to GND. There's a convenient pad attached to it (https://prnt.sc/tjxfnl).
Would you mind dumping the winbond SPI flash and posting it here? It would definitely help with reverse engineering it! I've ordered one but it's coming on a human-powered boat from China...
I would be pleased to; how do I go about doing so? What do I need?
Awesome! You'll need a CH341A (preferred) or a Raspberry Pi (any model) or, as a last resource, a blue pill board.
If you don't own any of those devices you could order the CH341A on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/JW-USB-Programmer-CH341A-Burner-Chip-Writer-SOP-Clip-Adapter-EEPROM-BIOS-FLAS/233635841518), but in that case I think it's not worth it as I'd probably get my device before you get the programmer. However, if the open-source firmware comes along nicely and you want to flash it, you'll need one of those devices too, so it's not wasted money
In case you own a CH341A, you will need to connect it to the SPI memory and dump it using the provided software.
In case of using a Raspberry Pi, a software called "flashrom" can be used to use the GPIO as the interface to the SPI chip. (https://www.flashrom.org/RaspberryPi)
With the blue pill board it's more tricky to do.
In all cases, the CPU will need to be held in a reset state in order to free the SPI bus for the programmer to use it. The only other way is physically de soldering the SPI chip from the board.
PD: To hold the CPU in reset, pin 70 needs to be shorted to GND. There's a convenient pad attached to it (https://prnt.sc/tjxfnl).
I do not buy from China via eBay, having been stung too many times after waiting weeks on end. I do see what looks like the same device on Amazon for $8.88 w/ Prime shipping
Amazon does not vet it's vendors as well as they could/should, eBay is worse!
I have a CP2102 based USB to TTL interface I have used to update firmware on a JYETech DSO112A. I wonder if that could work, however to be honest as my Parkinson's has advanced over the last year I have become less confident about mucking about on SMD boards with a soldering iron, I would hate to brick my new $160 toy (SWMBO would kill me)...
I will do some research any see if it's something I feel comfortable jumping in to...
The one in Amazon is the same, but it does not come with the clip connector which is useful in these situations.
That said, there's no smd soldering involved! FNIRSI were kind enough to give us access to all the pins required with standard 2.54mm pin headers (https://prnt.sc/tjxzwj). However, I completely understand that you don't want to risk it and kill your brand new oscilloscope
That's okay, I'll do it myself when I receive mine, and post full pinouts for every (unpopulated) header in the board, for future reference.
Thanks for the interest!
I just ordered one from Amazon, with the clip connector and some other physical interface devices ($13.58, this one). Supposed to be here Monday (evening is when we get deliveries out here "in the county").
I'll see what I can figure out then...
The only thing you will need to solder is a jumper from the pin 70 header to GND, to keep the CPU in reset mode.
That said, there's no smd soldering involved! FNIRSI were kind enough to give us access to all the pins required with standard 2.54mm pin headers (https://prnt.sc/tjxzwj).
Looks like there's a GND hole without solder mask 2.54 millimeters to the left of that.
The only thing you will need to solder is a jumper from the pin 70 header to GND, to keep the CPU in reset mode.
Looks like there's a GND hole without solder mask 2.54 millimeters to theleftright of that.
From the looks of it, that's not GND... This is a (low-res) picture of the underside:
[...] Also, @cliffyk, could you take some clear pictures of the LCD ribbon cable and the Touchscreen IC chip? We need to identify them to write their drivers in the Linux Kernel. [...]
[...] Also, @cliffyk, could you take some clear pictures of the LCD ribbon cable and the Touchscreen IC chip? We need to identify them to write their drivers in the Linux Kernel. [...]
[...] Seeing how quick it boots, I'd think it isn't booting uboot then linux, but maybe, perhaps xboot? + rt-thread, and also the simple UI may as well be littlevGL. [...]
It's not going to be easy, first you've got to be sure you can reverse engineer the interface with the fpga, because without that you're not going anywhere.
P.D. the lichee nano (an F1C100S with a Linux) is $6 at seeedstudio.
I know, very cheap! I have a Lichee Pi Zero which is quite similar, but a bit more powerful.
I know, very cheap! I have a Lichee Pi Zero which is quite similar, but a bit more powerful.
But that's an S3 (V3s?), right?
Yeah, I'll have to either reverse engineer the interface with the FPGA, or program the FPGA myself (which is my plan!). I'll of course back up all the SPI memories to be able to restore the scope to factory defaults. The main reason of buying this scope was to write full open-source code for it.
Yeah, I'll have to either reverse engineer the interface with the FPGA, or program the FPGA myself (which is my plan!). I'll of course back up all the SPI memories to be able to restore the scope to factory defaults. The main reason of buying this scope was to write full open-source code for it.
I'm very interested to see how this goes. I started work on open source for an Instek GDS-2000E but then killed the scope in an accident. I'm trying to get a price on replacing the main board.
Have Fun!
Reg
Has anyone investigated the USB port to see if one can get access via that? I just learned about these recently. I've watched a couple of reviews by Dave and another chap, but not read through all the posts here.