Yeah, I tried to get one and am holding my breath I won't get like a 4.0 firmware.
It's true though, if not for the availability of the hack, I'd probably get the thermapp or thermal experts
Oh-oh, unexpectedly the thread has caused some damage to them with your decision
I can confirm BUD method is working on Flir E4 HW2.0 SW 3.9.0 WIFI and non WIFI.
Thanks Bud, for this hard work!
You are doing us all a very big favour...
Just saying that dont take my mistake seriusly, i was enjoying a bottle of "captain morgan" in the liberation time and i am noob in computer compare to Bud.
Next year i will spend some more time on it.
Definitley recommend to use the QR code or adress for support.
Fantastic new year !
If anyone gets semi advance uppdate with this symtoms on Reply #406,
The FTP was lying " files are copy with succes "
Basic conf.cfc was still there.
All is good now
In US only delivery,, price, you save 8$
Is it wrong to buy flir original accessory ? Definitley not.
We do have a very nice tool now, thanks to Bud.
In US only delivery,, price, you save 8$
Is it wrong to buy flir original accessory ? Definitley not.
We do have a very nice tool now, thanks to Bud.
Sorry, I don't understand what you mean. As far as I know this IS Flir original accessory.
$8 and no shipping if picking up in store comes out to almost 25% savings.
Not my fault that you're not in US!
Just like many other things, Lowes Canada does not carry it.
Just wanted to thank you for this mod.
Waiting for my E4 non-wifi model.
Thank you for your work
First off, thanks to Bud and all the folks that continue to keep this E4 camera an awesome deal for us newbies to IR scanning.
I recently purchased a lightly used E4 that was calibrated in Nov 2015 and it is 1.2L hardware and 2.8.0 firmware. Camera obviously has not been hacked.
I need to back up the camera before I do anything, of course.
I have seen a few successes with folks going from 2.8 to 2.11 and applying the 2.11 reshack and menu hacks.
I hooked up the camera to Flir Tools 6.4 (latest version as of Jan '18) and it says it can update the firmware in the camera to 3.12. Obviously don't want to do that right now - 3.12 is not yet hackable. Was not really sure the 1.2L hardware could accept the 3.x firmware but apparently they can if Flir Tools wants to upgrade my camera to it.
Was thinking of upgrading from 2.8 to 3.9 and using the reshack and menu hacks for 3.9. This would get the camera up to the most recent hackable firmware (which I would prefer).
Is this the way to go or should I just upgrade from 2.8 to 2.11 and call it a day? Or perhaps even go from 2.8 to 2.3 (would rather not "downgrade" the firmware as there is some more risk there)?
I have done quite a bunch or reading in both this and the teardown thread but questions like these are not easy to find the answer for. Especially for 2.8 (although it seems the prevailing opinion is to downgrade to 2.3 and hack). Would be nice to have a chart (wishful thinking) with the camera's original firmware and the best hackable solution listed.
Thanks in advance for any guidance/suggestions on my question.
Xenawise
First off, thanks to Bud and all the folks that continue to keep this E4 camera an awesome deal for us newbies to IR scanning.
I recently purchased a lightly used E4 that was calibrated in Nov 2015 and it is 1.2L hardware and 2.8.0 firmware. Camera obviously has not been hacked.
I need to back up the camera before I do anything, of course.
I have seen a few successes with folks going from 2.8 to 2.11 and applying the 2.11 reshack and menu hacks.
I hooked up the camera to Flir Tools 6.4 (latest version as of Jan '18) and it says it can update the firmware in the camera to 3.12. Obviously don't want to do that right now - 3.12 is not yet hackable. Was not really sure the 1.2L hardware could accept the 3.x firmware but apparently they can if Flir Tools wants to upgrade my camera to it.
Was thinking of upgrading from 2.8 to 3.9 and using the reshack and menu hacks for 3.9. This would get the camera up to the most recent hackable firmware (which I would prefer).
Is this the way to go or should I just upgrade from 2.8 to 2.11 and call it a day? Or perhaps even go from 2.8 to 2.3 (would rather not "downgrade" the firmware as there is some more risk there)?
I have done quite a bunch or reading in both this and the teardown thread but questions like these are not easy to find the answer for. Especially for 2.8 (although it seems the prevailing opinion is to downgrade to 2.3 and hack). Would be nice to have a chart (wishful thinking) with the camera's original firmware and the best hackable solution listed.
Thanks in advance for any guidance/suggestions on my question.
Xenawise
Go to 2.11 or 2.3, both should work just fine. I wouldn't mess with 3.9 as you're entering uncharted territory(old hardware vs Bud's hack being done on the new hardware) with no real incentive as the other firmware will get you the same exact thing.
I agree. Avoid going to 3.9 as Bud crafted his upgrade for a very specific firmware and hardware build. Updating firmware on older versions of the camera does install the firmware but not always in a way that mirrors the later models. There are recorded cases of FLIR upgrading forum members firmware after a repair and the camera firmware configuration being different to that of a camera that left the factory with the same firmware. Any differences could impact upon whether Bud's upgrade works or your camera crashes.
Fraser
I agree. Avoid going to 3.9 as Bud crafted his upgrade for a very specific firmware and hardware build. Updating firmware on older versions of the camera does install the firmware but not always in a way that mirrors the later models. There are recorded cases of FLIR upgrading forum members firmware after a repair and the camera firmware configuration being different to that of a camera that left the factory with the same firmware. Any differences could impact upon whether Bud's upgrade works of your camera crashes.
Yes, upgrading from 2.x to 3.9 and then applying the patches might bring you some trouble. I have a non-Wifi E4 that had FW 2.3 installed but new HW - apparently someone tried to downgrade the unit for whatever reason. Buds patches worked after applying the 3.9 FW, but I had to find and remove a redundant file to make the basic liberated menus work. Doing so requires some experience with FTP, file systems, comparison tools, fighting Windows nasty RNDIS ... it's not a newbies job.
If you're willing to get into some trouble, one may try Bud's patches on an old HW model updated to 3.9, but clearly not recommended.
Didn't try out the advanced liberation package yet, but many thanks to Bud for his great work.
BTW: Thanks to Fraser also, for pointing me into the E4 direction in some other thread ...
The FLIR E4 remains arguably the best value for money complete thermal camera solution ever produced...... thanks to the upgrade
To purchase a new 320 x 240 pixel complete thermal camera that performs very well is still not possible below $1000. The E4 upgrade can change that if owners are willing to effectively 'hack' their camera. An amazing 'payoff' results from the effort needed to do such.
As we all know, the upgrade is only possible due to the efforts of some very clever individuals on this forum. It goes all the way back to the start of this journey when Mike and others discovered that the E4 was likely the same as An E8, with just some configuration difference. I salute all who have made the upgrade of the E4 possible. They have done all E4 owners a great service.
Fraser
Just a heads up, perhaps coincidence or FLIR Is monitoring this page but the wifi version is on a national backorder until the 16th of January
Looks like same for UK just rang a couple of suppliers no stock until late Jan early Feb...
non wifi E4 is in stock at messgeräte chemnitz - shipping to UK 15€
BR a.
The FLIR UK web shop also showed the E4 models to be in stock and available to buy. No sign of the model being 'on hold' so panic not
http://www.flir.co.uk/instruments/ex-series/
Fraser
haha thanks a lot Fraser - although I was referring to E4 w/ wifi model... Thought I'd get a wifi model to play with but no stock. Farnell said oh about 4 weeks earlier today. Some other supplier basically told me the lowest model now is E5 w/ wifi...
Edit: Flir UK does seem to have E4 wifi in stock (almost more expensive than others) so no national shortage!
Got myself 3D printed at a local shop a 2-part lens holder for close-up PCB work, and a ZnSe 20mm lens. Love the holder design, very easy to install the lens and put the holder on and take it off the camera. The 3D file was downloaded from
Thingiverse
Got myself 3D printed at a local shop a 2-part lens holder for close-up PCB work, and a ZnSe 20mm lens. Love the holder design, very easy to install the lens and put the holder on and take it off the camera. The 3D file was downloaded from Thingiverse
That looks pretty good! What's the diameter of the lens? Is 20mm optimal for 6" away from PCB?
I printed the lens adjustment tool (
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:197580 ) which works pretty well, 1/3 turn counter-clock wise brought the PCB in pretty sharp at 6".
I'm curious if the additional lens would provide a sharper picture than adjusting the existing lens. Would you be able to post a pic of a PCB? I'll do the same once I get to the shop.
Manual adjustment of the E4 lens provides a better image than the use of the ZnSe close-up lens. Not everyone wants to mess around with their cameras focus however. I have used ZnSe close-up lenses for many years, long before the FLIR E4 came on the scene. It is a compromise solution that works 'well enough' but it does have its limitations.
1. The cheap Chinese ZnSe lenses on eBay are intended for less demanding CO2 laser cutter use. They are not exactly very high optical quality. HQ versions are also available but cost a little more. The relatively low resolution of a thermal camera allows us to 'get away' with such a lens.
2. The ZnSe close-up lens focal length needs to be chosen to match the needs of the user. I personally use the 100mm FL the most, but other users prefer the 50mm FL. 100mm FL is the greatest distance offered in the cheap lenses due to their intended purpose in laser cutters. Greater focal distance lens are available, but expect to pay significantly more for them (~£80)
3. When using a close-up lens, good focus becomes challenging when hand holding the camera. The reason is the severely reduced depth of field that results from the use of the lens. Tripod mounting the camera using one of the available 3d printable tripod adapters for the E4 will make life easier when observing PCB's.
4. The ZnSe close-up lens solution that many of us own is cheap and effective. The image quality is not as good as that provided by my FLIR and Inframetrics professional close-up lenses, but then those are relatively large lumps of precision Germanium optics and they cost several thousand Dollars each when new !
Hope this helps
Fraser
With regard to the focus tool design. I own all available versions and personally like the design and fit of this tool:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:188896It fits my cameras focus ring indents perfectly.
Fraser