Replaced the USB connector on my TL866plus tonight. It has sucked since I got it. The USB plug would frequently fall out. Not a good thing when programming stuff, it could also have easily lead to a brick during a firmware update. At least it was easy to change. If anyone else has a sloppy jack I recommend it be replaced.
You need the newer plus model to program the FM series of FRAM parts. If you buy an older A/CS there is a 99.9% chance it's a counterfeit as they've been discontinued quite a while. I have both and would only buy the plus model. The only limitation is the max Vpp programming voltage which is only needed for some EPROM's and there is a work around if needed. The plus also lets you program 1.8 volt parts.
...the newer plus model...The only limitation is the max Vpp programming voltage which is only needed for some EPROM's and there is a work around if needed.
That's the other problem.
I cannot understand, why the manufacturer did not support 21/25V anymore...
Is there a workaround from the manufacturer?
Does the TL866A counterfeits work reliable?
I cannot understand, why the manufacturer did not support 21/25V anymore...
Is there a workaround from the manufacturer?
I guess the large majority of customers is not interested in programming legacy EPROMs, so XGecu are not losing a lot of the addressable market and could probably save a few pennies in the design.
The manufacturer's workaround is to sell you the more expensive T56 model...
http://forums.xgecu.com/redirect.php?tid=19&goto=lastpost
That's the other problem.
I cannot understand, why the manufacturer did not support 21/25V anymore...
Is there a workaround from the manufacturer? Does the TL866A counterfeits work reliable?
There is a workaround, you inject a few more volts when programming. But it requires modification or messing around with a custom adapter, then there is the software side of it. But it's not manufacturer supported no.
"Are TL866A counterfeits reliable?" is an age old question. An easier one would be "Can they be made reliable if needed?". Which I think is yes, the circuit has been reverse engineered so you can build and flash one as reliable as you like.
Thanks, I think I'll order a new TL866II+, and add some self-made adapters for 21/25V, if I need them.
Is there a 50ms pulse mode for those stone aged UV-EPROMS?
The cloners can call their programmer whatever they like. I would double check if it's the older TL866CS/A first as they are no longer sold and widely cloned. The page linked below is the official page where you can find dealers links and photos to identify if you have a clone TL866CS/A model at the PCB level.
http://www.autoelectric.cn/en/tl866_main.htmlIf it is a TL866CS/A clone then obviously you want that software instead. The developer has clone detection in his software to partially brick clones at a firmware level. This should be able to be reversed on a TL866CS/A which is discussed in this thread your reading.
If it's different it might pay to upload some images of the PCB so someone can tell you if it's the same layout as the newer TL866II Plus model or not. If it was me and it looked like a fake/clone of ANYTHING I'd be lodging an Ebay/Paypal dispute for a full refund (unless you specifically wanted a clone that is). You shouldn't have to send a counterfeit product back.
There are good reasons for owning both a genuine or clone TL866CS/A AND a genuine TL866II Plus, one is that the TL866 Plus model only supports programming voltages up to 18V. Other than that unless someone has brought from that specific seller who knows what it is. Their advert states from between 3.3V to 21V so that is wrong for a TL866II Plus model for a start, it should be 1.8V-6.5V VCC and 18V VPP.
The cloners can call their programmer whatever they like. I would double check if it's the older TL866CS/A first as they are no longer sold and widely cloned. The page linked below is the official page where you can find dealers links and photos to identify if you have a clone TL866CS/A model at the PCB level.
thanks for the link I will check it out
If it is a TL866CS/A clone then obviously you want that software instead. The developer has clone detection in his software to partially brick clones at a firmware level. This should be able to be reversed on a TL866CS/A which is discussed in this thread your reading.
Thanks I will read back through the thread and hope that I don't have to go through the potential hassle of unbricking it if it is a clone. I suspect (read hope) that it is simply the earlier version
If it's different it might pay to upload some images of the PCB so someone can tell you if it's the same layout as the newer TL866II Plus model or not. If it was me and it looked like a fake/clone of ANYTHING I'd be lodging an Ebay/Paypal dispute for a full refund (unless you specifically wanted a clone that is). You shouldn't have to send a counterfeit product back.
To be honest as long as it works for my Macbook BIOS stuff I will be happy
There are good reasons for owning both a genuine or clone TL866CS/A AND a genuine TL866II Plus, one is that the TL866 Plus model only supports programming voltages up to 18V. Other than that unless someone has brought from that specific seller who knows what it is. Their advert states from between 3.3V to 21V so that is wrong for a TL866II Plus model for a start, it should be 1.8V-6.5V VCC and 18V VPP.
I don't think that the lack of being able to handle higher voltages will be an issue in my case but thanks for the heads up.
For programming an old 2732 EPROM on my TL866 I designed a quick&dirty adaptor to apply an external 25V programming voltage, see attached schematics.
Works like a charme :-)
Hi there,
Has someone succeeded in programming 2732s with a T866II Plus? Even using this Vpp raiser circuit, I can't program them. I've read about the insufficient programming pulse width used by the software. Is there anyway to change that parameter, or an alternative to the official software that can do that? Any trick for programming 2716s and 2732s with this programmer?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone. i just bought a TL866II PLUS. reading the thread I realized that there are risks in updating the firmware of this product. the TL866II PLUS may be locked. and as i understand there is no way to unlock it, as you can do with the tl866cs / a.
so I ask:
1) is it really necessary to update? can I use the TL866II PLUS with the latest 10.53 software without being forced to update the firmware?
2)are there fake clones of the TL866II PLUS? possibly how can i find out if mine is original?
I'm not aware of any fakes of the 866 Plus (yet anyway).
I am pretty sure you need to update the firmware in the programmer if you want to use the newer PC software.
I've had no problems updating mine, but I am sure to do it when nothing else is running on the PC and no cables etc are being moved.
thanks, I will use version 8.01. It seems that this should match the factory-loaded firmware.
anyway, if it were to brick, is there a way to unlock it today?
i bought a chinese eprom erase 4w 254nm (grey) . I have to delete some Chinese eprom m27C4001. how many minutes does it take? thanks
i bought a chinese eprom erase 4w 254nm (grey) . I have to delete some Chinese eprom m27C4001. how many minutes does it take? thanks
For a good eprom, 10 to 15 minutes should about do it. I've used several thousand M27C801 Chinese eproms and on the rare occasion I've had to erase one they take 1-2 hours. They are branded ST but scrape off the black paint and they have some Chinese writing underneath.
thanks. I've read a lot of bad things about Chinese eproms. I eventually found and bought some original but expensive eproms. I preferred to buy good memories than recycled Chinese junk
Sure. The ones I have been using are supposedly 100nS access time but in reality are about 1uS. Quite okay for my application though. Also, with a "good" batch about 1 in 50 fail programming. I have had bad batches where about 3 in 10 fail programming. Reliability has been fine though, with some having run 15 years now.
thanks, I will use version 8.01. It seems that this should match the factory-loaded firmware.
anyway, if it were to brick, is there a way to unlock it today?
You might find there are issues with the older versions, many bugs have been fixed. I have done many firmware updates, no issues so far.
i have read almost every page in this thread and some have had problems and stuck their TL866II PLUS. of course it is really absurd that this does not unlock and the old ones do. this is my fear.
anyway which operating system is best suited? win XP: win 7 32 or 64 ?: win 10? usb 2.0 or 3.0 ports? are quite a lot of questions, but it could make all the difference when updating the firmware
meanwhile, the eproms have arrived. they look original. what do you think?
Finally picked up one of these units... went for a TLS866a from overseas, knew it was a clone as there is no legitimate source of the A/CS models anymore.
Right out of the box, I was getting read errors (writing is not a problem) on W27C512 and Atmel AT27C512Rs (from a legit source) when trying to read or verify.
Self test fails 9 out of 10 times, with GND 4/ZIF 4 coming back as a fault. I've looked at Radioman's schematics, but I am not exactly on the level of probably 90% of the people here when it comes to rework (nor do I have their confidence).
If it was a constant error, obviously I would think a bung component or dodgy soldering being a culprit, but I can get it to pass the self-check about 10% of the time.
So I turn to your collective wisdom and ask, where do I start looking to try and track down the issue?
I would start with trying another computer, and another USB cable.