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#725 Reply
Posted by
chang1
on 13 Oct, 2018 22:00
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First a big thank you to Bud and everyone for getting this project sorted.
Like for many of you, things were not straight forward for me but after a full day I made it. Here is step by step what I did right and wrong and my solutions.
I have a 2018 E4 WIFI 2.0L fw v3.12.0 and used a Windows 7 32bit laptop
1 - Goto page 20 and download the 3 files in Buds post #478.
2 - Read the read me in the basic zip and follow them while referring here if you get stuck.
3 - Download and install the tools listed. Python v2.7 not other versions. I preferred WinSCP to filezilla. The first part of the fubar web page has them except WinSCP.
4 – Ping the camera to get the ip address with cmd ("ping IRCAMxxxx"). Mine was 192.168.0.19. I did this every time before transferring anything to or from the camera to make sure the wifi was working as it was hit and miss due to a weak signal. I had the camera on the normal image display for this and for both FTP transfers and when using putty.
5 – As I was having trouble with WIFI I enabled permenant RNDIS but I don’t think it made any difference as I did not use USB at all. You can check which USB mode you are in with the hidden menu - Device Settings>Camera Information>Then hold menu button down for a few seconds>USB Mode (you cannot change it here though as it has been disabled). I changed it back after I had finished and tested everthing was working.
6 – Make a backup, hard to find out how but this is what I did. Using WinSCP and the camera ip address (192.168.0.19 for me) login to the camera with the FTP login credentials. Set the left hand window to where you want to backup to. Drag across each of the files from the right hand window to copy them. Skip any files that don’t want to copy. Then under session disconnect.
7 – I repeated this with the recovery login credentials user: anonymous pass: NcFTP@ from page 8. This did not copy as many files though.
8 – Copy both backups to a USB memory stick to ensure I could not lose them.
9 – Obtain suid, I used both methods and got the same result, don’t keep quote marks if it is in them.
10 - Obtain cfccfg_V2.py.
11 – Put your serial number in the conf.cfg file from the basic folder and save it using notepad. Pay close attention to the extensions .cfc .cfg in these steps.
12 - Encrypt the file using python and the suid. I had 2 big problems with this. Directing python to the files and which command window to use. I kept getting a syntax error. Use the normal windows cmd. Use CD to change its directory to the Python folder. For me "cd\" to get to the root of C: then "CD python27" put both files in the python directory before running the command line.
13 – Move the newly created conf.cfc from the python folder to where your other files are.
14 – Start up WinSCP and putty.
15 – In putty use the camera ip address and click on telnet then on open.
16 – Enter "stopapp" then enter. Nothing happened for me even if I repeated it. In the end I typed in stopapp instead of pasting it in or using the up arrow and then did it again which worked.
17 – Then I followed the rest of the instructions but tried renaming instead of over writing the files which did not work. As these should already be backed up just over write or delete the files to be replaced.
18 – All working OK so I did the advanced package without a hitch.
A day of torment but well worth it and very satisfying in the end. During my searching for solutions I saw other people had similar problems which were mainly answered by Bud. I hope this information will save him from having to answer a few questions in the future and cut down on a lot of searching through this and other threads by others.
I have since also swapped the 3 spot measuring tool for the one uploaded by CABNY in post #218 on page 9, which I find is much more useful. It is probably the same as the centrehotcoldspot in the basic package. I used notepad to edit mbox settings in the .rsc file to increase the size of the measuring box. the maximum size I could get was height 158, width 214 (pixels), which needed centering with x of 53 and y of 41 (pixels from top left corner).
When I tried to swap the screening tool with deltatemp it did not seem to work but turning screening on in the menu did.
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#726 Reply
Posted by
OrBy
on 02 Nov, 2018 14:00
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So it's been about a week since I did it but I figured I would post so the info is out there.
I had a HW 1.0 FW 2.3.0 camera with the advanced menu/liberation from the other thread installed on it.
I updated it to FW 3.1.2 and installed Bud's basic and advanced liberation on it from this thread.
I did not use all of the included instructions since it seems like it still relies on the CRC01 on the e8.cfg for it's config.
But after some playing around - it does work and the camera seems snappier as well!
It seems though that I was not able to get it to support the Screening Mode and the things that go along with it - not worried but perhaps it checks the HW version and locks out if it's not 2.0+?
Also Bud - what are you using to unpack and repack the *.rcc files? (Windows or Linux tools?) Always wanted to tear into them but never managed to find anything that works on Windows... Any insight would be nice.
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#727 Reply
Posted by
Bud
on 04 Nov, 2018 05:40
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I am pretty sure the CRC check was patched so it has no effect in the liberated E4 WiFi. The way liberation became possible remains magic
Screening mode also worked in 2.3.0, not sure why you are not getting it, perhaps because as you said you did not follow all of the instructions ?
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#728 Reply
Posted by
mario.ti
on 12 Nov, 2018 18:56
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hi,
i want to do the upgrade to advanced package (i have basic liberation package installed already)
But surpriseley I can't go to RNDIS mode. When i connect camera to usb, without turning it on, after a few second it's disconnecting. Because of that, it also can't be charging that way.
As for now, I checked the power supply plan in my Windows, and disabled USB selective suspend setting. Also, reseted camera by unmount battery. Tryed annother USB ports.
This issue does'n occur with camera on. I can download pictures, etc.
any sugests?
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#729 Reply
Posted by
DaveWB
on 12 Nov, 2018 19:03
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You can do it with the camera on. After running suid.exe in telnet, run “STOPAPP” and it’ll allow you to upload the common_dll.dll file and everything else.
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#730 Reply
Posted by
Bud
on 15 Nov, 2018 22:51
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hi,
i want to do the upgrade to advanced package (i have basic liberation package installed already)
But surpriseley I can't go to RNDIS mode. When i connect camera to usb, without turning it on, after a few second it's disconnecting. Because of that, it also can't be charging that way.
As for now, I checked the power supply plan in my Windows, and disabled USB selective suspend setting. Also, reseted camera by unmount battery. Tryed annother USB ports.
This issue does'n occur with camera on. I can download pictures, etc.
any sugests?
Can you charge the camera using the supplied external power adapter?
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#731 Reply
Posted by
mario.ti
on 17 Nov, 2018 14:50
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I use original charger as my basic way to charging it. there's no problem with that.
DaveWB Can you tell me some more. There's no suid.exe must be run, in Bud instruction
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#732 Reply
Posted by
Bud
on 17 Nov, 2018 16:59
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Then i'd say your computer usb ports cannot supply enough juce for the battery to start charging. I have seen that on my computer's USB 3.0 ports. The camera gets disconnected or the whole computer may freeze. I disabled the USB 3.0 ports by physically unplugging them from the motherboard, i do not use them anyways, and use USB 2.0 ports. The camera charges fine on USB 2.0 ports. This may be a issue specific to motherboard make/model. Try a different computer or USB 2.0 port.
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#733 Reply
Posted by
falawkas
on 22 Nov, 2018 22:56
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Thank you Bud for your help to liberate the Flir E4, mine is a new E4 with 2.0L and firmware 3.12 i followed your instruction sheet and everything is great up to level 15. kindly i need your advise before i proceed with the level 16 as I noticed, that the file names of the original camera setup are different from that mentioned in Buds files (they have a "_z3" added at the end of the filename) same case of Alexx177 reply#559,
you replied him in reply#560 "Do not touch the _z3 files, they have to be left there untouched for the camera to boot"
so i have to keep them and transfer Bud's file = both files will be available in the camera folder?
if i stop in level 15 the resolution and the thermal sensitivity are updated?
thank you for your help.
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#734 Reply
Posted by
Bud
on 26 Nov, 2018 04:12
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I did not analyze every step, you should follow the instructions.
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#735 Reply
Posted by
miljume
on 10 Dec, 2018 15:15
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Hi all,
Just ordered my E4 Wifi and hope for it to be a 2.0L with 3.12.0
Before I go ahead and re-flash it, has anyone succeded in bricking their device?
i.e. how safe is it to perform the hack if you follow all instructions and do a full backup before?
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#736 Reply
Posted by
nhelder
on 17 Dec, 2018 20:44
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I found this forum too late. Bought a hacked E4 1.2 (didn't check software) and first thing I figured I'd do is upgrade the software (to 3.12.0). Now my hacked E4 is a regular E4. I guess I'm lucky that nothing catastrophic happened.
Does anyone have advice, comments, warnings about hacking this thing now? Am I asking for trouble?
Everything seems to be working fine (stock). Should I downgrade software and then try a hack?
TIA!
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#737 Reply
Posted by
DaveWB
on 17 Dec, 2018 20:56
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Upgrading from 1.22 to 3.12 does not pose any issues. Apply the 3.12 upgrades as instructed and you will be fine.
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#738 Reply
Posted by
Mat_J
on 17 Dec, 2018 22:35
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I recently bought a E4 wifi on Kijiji (Canadas's Craigslist)
but upon inspecting it, I see the packaging was swapped and I received a unit with HW1.1L and SW 3.12
I'm not too upset as I only paid $500 CDN for it,
but I'm left wondering if anyone has liberated a 1.1L with SW 3.12 or 3.13?
I see conflicting information in this forum about the 1.2L cameras, has anyone tried a 1.1L? can a 1.1L be treated as a 1.2L?
I see most people who have these earlier versions are keeping their earlier firmware, what would you do in my situation?
Thanks in advanced
Matt
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#739 Reply
Posted by
WeKeys
on 20 Dec, 2018 14:53
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Hello,
I've just bought a E4 (not Wifi) 2.0L with software 3.13.0
Bud told me to see here for having a Hack for this device.
I have a major problem for following the HOW TO of Bud, i can't access to RNDIS at all.
I go into the USB Mode menu, by default it's on UVC and MSD but i can select anything else (RNDIS, RNDIS with UVC, MSD...) it never confirm.
I click on RNDIS, then the menu get to the one before
When i get back to the USB Mode menu, it's still on UVC and MSD....
video of the issue :
https://cloud.werry.ovh/s/5eWCEjMXZaKZSJrWhat can i do ? Do i need to open the Flir and do a mod on it ?
Thank you
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#740 Reply
Posted by
Bud
on 20 Dec, 2018 16:08
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Forget about the mode menu, it is not working. The quickest way to learn about how to switch to RNDIS is perhaps by reading blog written by fubar. Search google for fubar e4. He's got a section on how to enable RNDIS mode. Then come back and do your thing. This thread assumes you know how to switch to RNDIS and back so please do not ask in this thread.
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#741 Reply
Posted by
WeKeys
on 20 Dec, 2018 16:12
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I was just a fool,
I were on his page last night.
So many things to read, you lost your way on the go.
Basically you don't enable RNDIS mode into the USB Menu anymore, you plug the camera, use a software on a 32bits Windows, and taboom RNDIS...
Then i can follow your HOW TO
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#742 Reply
Posted by
takeo
on 20 Dec, 2018 16:56
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I have an E4, and when reading the manual online here:
https://www.flir.com/globalassets/imported-assets/document/flir-ex-series-user-manual.pdfIt mentions on page 17:
The charging time for a fully depleted battery is 2 hours.
• The battery is being charged when the blue LED is
flashing.
• The battery is fully charged when the blue LED is
continuous.
The Flir supplied battery charger that was included with my package has a blue LED indicator that stays "continuously on." I never see it flashing when the battery is being charged.
My question:
1) Does your battery charger ever have a flashing blue indicator when charging?
2) Am I reading this section incorrectly (i.e. page 17)?
Thanks.
Note: Just trying to determine if my unit is defective (battery charger or camera)
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#743 Reply
Posted by
Fraser
on 20 Dec, 2018 19:22
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My external battery charger has the flashing blue LED whilst charging. I did a teardown of the charger on this forum some time ago. The flashing is driven by a 555 timer IC.
Fraser
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#744 Reply
Posted by
Bud
on 20 Dec, 2018 19:34
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Mine is just solid blue , not flashing. But i am not crazy about full charge as i do not use the camera for a prolonged time in a single use, and it is perhaps better to store the device half charged rather than fully charged.
Edit: if you want to monitor charging status you can press Left and Right joystik buttons when the camera is turned off.
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#745 Reply
Posted by
Fraser
on 20 Dec, 2018 23:46
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@Takeo,
I just remembered,
I found my external charger would not start flashing its blue LED with just one of my batteries and the others worked fine. Cleaning the battery contacts with IPA cured the issue. I suspect the contacts got contaminated or suffered oxidisation if they are not real gold plated. If the temperature sense pin makes a poor contact I suspect it might inhibit the normal charging cycle. I cleaned the charger contacts as well.
Do not use anything abrasive to clean the contacts.
Fraser
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A big thanks to Bud and everyone that has contributed to this thread! Just got an e4 20L with v3.13 on it. The liberation worked like a charm so far. The only issue I had was with the Python process. Once I popped conf.cfc and the cfccfg_V2.py into the Python27 directory and then changed to that directory using the command prompt before running step no#7 it worked fine.
I was a little confused about the many mentions of software v3.9 since the current software is 3.13 on the Flir site ...I am assuming v3.9 was for the non wf-fi version? The downgrade from 3.2 to 3.9 comments just added to the confusion. BUT... all the info is there if you look, read and reread.
A few points of interest:
I'm running windows 10. (Seemed early on people were saying you needed older software.)
Just connected over wi-fi on my home network. Didn't need to use USB or to put it in RNDIS mode.
The camera will automatically connect to your wi-fi network when it turned on after you have set that up on the camera. Saving your FTP login info makes getting back in extremely simple.
When telnetting into the camera via wi-fi I was not prompted for login credentials.
About the only thing I really wish the camera had was video recording. I hope if that feature exists somewhere it can eventually be unlocked.
I would like to make a donation to Bud for all the work he has done. Is there a PayPal way to do that? Thanks in advance!
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#747 Reply
Posted by
Bud
on 21 Dec, 2018 02:29
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Thanks obliterations. Did you install both Basic and Advanced packages?
Edit:
I was a little confused about the many mentions of software v3.9 since the current software is 3.13 on the Flir site ...I am assuming v3.9 was for the non wf-fi version?
This WiFi liberation thread started from v3.9 as can be seen in post #183. It was the first WiFi version liberated.
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#748 Reply
Posted by
Bud
on 21 Dec, 2018 04:28
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I would like to make a donation to Bud for all the work he has done. Is there a PayPal way to do that? Thanks in advance!
Thanks obliterations. If I may I would like to donate this donation to the forum owner
for providing us with such a great platform for information exchange. Link:
http://www.eevblog.com/donations/
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#749 Reply
Posted by
WeKeys
on 21 Dec, 2018 13:43
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Hello,
I successfuly liberate my E4,
I got the great menus, so amazing.
But i'm kind of curious to know if my IRCam is really at 320x240.
I borrow you 2 screenshot, one without hack, one after.
Is it normal that in the view finder i don't have Flir, but on the picture it's back ?
I read the conf.cfg and the resolution is at 320 and 240.
Could you tell me if the Resolution Hack works or no ?
Thanks