The third MSOX6004A from Keysight's competition, for $8.5k. Meanwhile, I sold my MSOX3104A for $5k, and I paid $100 to ship it, and $70 gas/$40 turnpike fee to pick my new MSOX6004A up. It sums up as $3.71k upgrading cost.
Very nice! Only 74.2 cents per upgraded MHz.
The third MSOX6004A from Keysight's competition, for $8.5k. Meanwhile, I sold my MSOX3104A for $5k, and I paid $100 to ship it, and $70 gas/$40 turnpike fee to pick my new MSOX6004A up. It sums up as $3.71k upgrading cost.
That was quite an amazing deal there.
I had a planed to sell my MSO6034A (non X) when i got my next scope as they seam to still be worth a decent amount. I never got around to it, but then later realized it still gets used quite often so im keeping it.
TEK 222. While not a real score (for the price I paid) it is in excellent condition, had the manual and the carry bag
When the Tek 200 series came out I was a young teenager and I was blown away by the small size. Was missing the earth clip (uses 2mm banana - so easy fix) and had both probes. Dead battery (the weird 8V SLA - unobtanium) but will put some 18650 Li Ions holders in for portable use, if needed.
I have buyed one from france for a pay of€ 130,- +20 postage.
It got 4 pcs of this enersys cyclon cells, for around 40,-
so the little Tek is done for 190,-€ . This is a normally price for this collecting scopes,
also the other little Tek ( 211, 212, 213, 214, 221, and the little DSO 224, are still expensive. But take a look in the old catalogs to see how many $$$ was gone to get one, it is still OK
µTek greetings
Martin
Hi group,
Here is a picture of my latest 'score':
It is a Fluke 187 that looks like it has been run over by car.
Here is a picture of the backside:
And the inside of the top:
I was given this to me free by a friend.
What is so great about this?
Well, I have another Fluke 187 that had a good case but had been exposed to a severe overload and was unrepairable:
I took the PCB assembly from the 'roadkill' unit and put it in the electrically damaged unit and I have a working Fluke 187:
I have checked all the ranges with my Fluke 5101 calibrator and everything seems to be working properly.
Regards,
Jay_Diddy_B
Well, I have another Fluke 187 that had a good case but had been exposed to a severe overload and was unrepairable:
Have you tried repairing the input protection section? It would probably only take 5 minutes to check all varistors, PTC (half blown off), fusbile resistor (obviously fried), etc.
It would be similar to this Brymen BM869, but ended up being repairable.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/brymen-bm869-meets-high-voltage-in-real-world/
Good deal on the Fluke 187 donor guts!
Well, I have another Fluke 187 that had a good case but had been exposed to a severe overload and was unrepairable:
Have you tried repairing the input protection section? It would probably only take 5 minutes to check all varistors, PTC (half blown off), fusbile resistor (obviously fried), etc.
It would be similar to this Brymen BM869, but ended up being repairable.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/brymen-bm869-meets-high-voltage-in-real-world/
Retiredcaps,
I had tried to repair the damage Fluke 187, It was damaged beyond the input protection circuitry. I cannot remember exactly what I tried. I had given up on it and I was keeping the damaged unit for parts. Anyway the 'roadkill' unit came with a good pcb, so it made the repair really easy.
The plastic LCD display bracket and case was badly damaged in the 'roadkill' unit, so apart from academic interest there is little point in repair the burnt board.
Good deal on the Fluke 187 donor guts!
There was a 'cost' I spent several hours repairing an HP6010A power supply for my friend.
This is how the 6010A looked inside:
The cover didn't look too bad.
But, under the cover:
More dirt:
Giant 'dust bunnies':
This was the cause of the problem, a damaged 10turn potentiometer:
After cleaning:
I took the unit apart, washed the board in a sink warm water and dish soap. I washed the case and main board with a power washer and left everything to dry in the sun.
Regards,
Jay_Diddy_B
Nice job on both.
Not only did you save some good equipment, you got to keep one.
Definitely a good deal, and FWIW, I'd say the road kill unit was your payment for fixing the HP (sounds positive, as this story is IMHO).
@Jay_Diddy_B: I'll second the "nice job" on both of those devices.
Scored a Keithley 2015 THD Multimeter on Ebay for 350 Euros. It was out of specification but i easily adjusted it and now its fine.
This:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282148473438?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
An Agilent DSO-X 2014A for $460. It's still under factory warranty till 2018!
And you would have paid much less if I wasn't bidding against you!
I also noticed it should be under warranty - as long as it is a standard failure and not as a result of someone trying to hack it. I assume it is flash corruption though.
Damn you! (Of course you know, this means war!)
I didn't even want to post this one till it was in my hot little hands. It just arrived today, and I've already got an RMA # from Keysight. Ships out tomorrow.
I bet the seller would sh*t if he only knew.
MY52....
Is that a 2012 model ?
Does Agilent offer 6Y warranty , or where do you check for a valid warranty ?
/Bingo
https://service.keysight.com/infoline/public/details.aspx?pn=DSOX2014A&sn=MY52492187&i=COV&from=details&BTN_QUERY_MODEL_SERIAL=Next
5 Years on this one. It's a 2013 unit. Add 52 to 61. I forget what the significance of 1961 is, I'm sure someone remembers.
I had always understood (based on what I've seen online, and of course can't find anything while searching now) that the serial number prefix indicated the year and production run. The first digit (3 number prefix) or two digits (4 number prefix) denoted the year when added to 19
60 - three digit prefixes ran up to 1969, then they became four digit, and the latter two digits indicated either the week or production run number (there are some that are higher than 52) which would make your 5249XXX numbered instrument a late 2012 production (49th run, or 49th week) unit. The warranty beginning in spring of 2013 would make sense as it may have taken a few months to go through distribution and make it to the customer, at which point the warranty clock started ticking.
My understanding is that 1960 is when they switched to the 'new' two part serial numbering system.
-Pat
Just picked this up from the local fleaBay.
A 1984 Fluke 8050A, newest part was the chipset form week 11, 1984.
Just 11 years past calibration.
Now to clean it up, and give it the LED display mod.
I had always understood (based on what I've seen online, and of course can't find anything while searching now) that the serial number prefix indicated the year and production run. The first digit (3 number prefix) or two digits (4 number prefix) denoted the year when added to 1960
Correct, you add 1960 to the first two of four digits in the serial number. The scheme is described in many of the HP user guides or operating manuals.
Wooohooo
Picked up Royel Soldering station RE900-4 for $42 Aus, fleabay. Used to use these in Avionics repair F18 and F111. OS members might not know "Royel" but they were one of the few "MIL Spec" systems made back in mid 80's. When Australian F111s went to dumps (~2013) they were selling for around $800 on fleabay...thus this is a bargain. Their new units cost...way too much for me. I had 3 Royel Irons and even a Royel de-solder iron that fit this perfectly. Just had to re-configure the pins as I was using them on a an old Adcola dual station and had modified the plugs to DIN...as everyone else had.
The de-solder pump...way over spec'd as well as resistance tweezers and dual concurrent irons...
Winning!
@wasyoungonce that is one hell-of-a air-vacuum pump in that, presume meant to run all day/night.
Did I read 3Amps to the vacuum motor? !!! That could probably suck start a Harley!