The only possible approach possible I see is to only take 10 measures/second, and wait 10mS for each.
We lose 100mS time, 10% power. We can barely filter with so few values, the filter must have a very low coefficient to avoid delay.
We can't take a lot more of measurements, we'll lose a lot of power.
We can't take less measurements, as the high power heat the tips very fast and risk overshooting.
Ookey! The cold is coming, any excuse is ok for burning something and heating the house
This fw allows 10-650mS PWM periods and ADC Delay of 1-500mS (or Period-1 if <500).
By default Period=200mS, Delay=20mS.
Exotic filterings disabled, only average of last ADC buffer.
Remember to reset settings!!
Nope! If you set the pwm too high you will also have to wait!
@Bozog: Oops, you're right it's an F072CBT6 - sorry!
@DavidAlfa: Regarding preserving the original mcu (and its fw): Never did a that big desoldering before. This 48 pin μC looks really frightening... Any tips?
@Bozog: Oops, you're right it's an F072CBT6 - sorry!
@DavidAlfa: Regarding preserving the original mcu (and its fw): Never did a that big desoldering before. This 48 pin μC looks really frightening... Any tips?
Something like this would work best I'm thinking, so fast enough at 10hz, can get 99% power and the important bit we get 80ms recovery time @ 20% pwm for accurate measurement close to setpoint.
@Bozog: Oops, you're right it's an F072CBT6 - sorry!
@DavidAlfa: Regarding preserving the original mcu (and its fw): Never did a that big desoldering before. This 48 pin μC looks really frightening... Any tips?This is a good example of how to do it.
Personally I avoid using the desoldering braid if possible, he used too little flux.
If the solder starts acting like a sticky mass, drop some flux, clean the tip and most of the solder will get suck by the tip.
Be bery careful, don't make more pressure than barely touching it! It's very easy to bend a pin or lift a pad.
Specially if using braid, don't use a large sections, only the tip, because the opposite side to the part you're heating will cool down and stick to whatever is touching.
Then, at the smallest movement you'll tear whatever it was sticking to.
Something like this would work best I'm thinking, so fast enough at 10hz, can get 99% power and the important bit we get 80ms recovery time @ 20% pwm for accurate measurement close to setpoint.
Not correct, 10Hz*10mS = 100mS off time, max power=90%. Not bad anyway, i'ts very rare to use more than 50%.
Maybe those giant flat tips for reworking BGAs will use all the power.
The frequency is not important if the temperature regulation works correctly. What I don't want is the temp dancing around like it did before.
Could you make a video to see how it performs? My mosfets are still in the way...
I don't get it. You must sample always in the same way. If you sample after 80mS you'll get for sure the real temp.
In your drawing, the last pwm wave with ~99%, will get a crazy higher/lower reading, this is exactly what happened with low delays.
What I don't understand yet is why you need such high delay.
Try a small snubber!
And I don't think sending the tip to Spain does worth it , I'll probably burn the tip, but not by accident
And I don't think sending the tip to Spain does worth it , I'll probably burn the tip, but not by accident
And I don't think sending the tip to Spain does worth it , I'll probably burn the tip, but not by accident
Would be a lot cheaper than the tip to send, it won't heat your room very much tho, you cold?
And I don't think sending the tip to Spain does worth it , I'll probably burn the tip, but not by accident
Would be a lot cheaper than the tip to send, it won't heat your room very much tho, you cold?
Your issue may be hardware related and not software. There's another thread that even the OEM firmware is having issues with authentic Hakko tips. Perhaps another unforeseen circumstance where they used a lesser expensive component that works fine with clone tips but does not work when authentic tips are used.
LE: Meanwhile i'm sort of beta tester for the v3.1S firmware and the board is alive again.
There are a ton of problematic factors.
The analog frontend isn't what you would call great.
First, directly interfacing the TC without cold junction compensation (and I doubt that just adding the temp. from the sensing NTC is ok).
For measuring such low voltages they should have used symmetric power for the amps to void the offsets. Although it manages it pretty well I must say.
Check the great, non-existent filtering for the inductive spikes for the heater.
The transistor driver is not good for fast switching...
And the ksgers are even worse with a switching supply driving the amp, that gets max 20mV input.
My thinking was to put the schottky diode diretcly in the handle, so the spikes are cut down much faster.
Nice review, maybe I should starting selling these?
You need a more Kd. No Kd would cause weird response in my tests. Around 40-5-30 Kp, Ki,Kd but would vary a lot between tips