so in this firmware changing the "tip" from the menu does not change the pid for that tip?
Try to fix the cheap encoders. If it detects the encoder stopped in the middle position for more than 500mS, it will treat the clicks as normal clicks instead drag clicks.
It might need additional timing tweaking, and could cause more problems that it fixes.
so in this firmware changing the "tip" from the menu does not change the pid for that tip?No one said that. Create a new tip. Switch to that tip. Set the PID and other settings to whatever works for you. There was no point in starting with multiple tips before, when they were all the same unless/until you changed them. BTW, when creating a new tip, it initially copies settings from the first tip.
You have the old, old pid settings few post up.
There are no "standard PID". Even it might not use PID at all.
I already said too many times recently. Play with it.
I'm getting a little tired, some people needs everything chewed up. Try yourself...
i of course have been all day testing it and trying to get it as close as i can. do you know why its doing the overshoot no iron thing as some others mentioned? i have it testing within 3-4deg now. if i could get that no iron thing fixed this would be great to use!! and i do not mean to ask stupid questions i appreciate your work on this very much and now that i understand i do not need to ask the pid question again. ill do some calibrations for you with ksger and genuine hakko tips tonight and post results.
got new st link's in today and am going to try to reflash. im also curious due to my color vision would anyone know of a white oled i can solder in place of the blue one from ksger that will be fully compatible? i ordered a few to try but they are taking FOREVER to get here from china right now. is there a specific one anyone has tried yet?
edit this time it flashed fine with the new stlink. must have been something odd there. went through no issues. love the new gui imo
yes i can put in on the scope tomm when im in the office ill bring it with me and have a look. i think i found what "seems" to be a happy area where its not overshooting and temps are almost spot on. this is 150-30-0 or slight variations of that seems good also, the stock firmware was 0100-0030-0100 but that made it way worse. with that it was a mess. but using the 150-30-0 after a calibration im literally around 3deg over at 300c, spot on at 350, 4 deg under at 375 and 2 deg over at 400c (ksger tip). and stable it seems. ill continue to test it as a main station and see how it does. i also have c245 and c210 tips i can test also. ill power it off the bench psu and see if that helps also.
whats odd is i even erased and reflashed then did a reset-all. did not touch the pid at all left it as was and it was reading crazy high like 650-700 no iron then i adjusted the pid and got the same high readings and no iron. then i put it aside to get some stuff done and came back a couple hours later and did another reset -all (did not reflash) did not touch the pid settings and tip it was not overshooting anymore, its just weird was all thats why i was like hmmmm temps were off but it was not going nuts.
i saw a station on you tube (homeade one) where he had it graph out the pid is that possible with these chips or would they need to be more powerful?
Try to fix the cheap encoders. If it detects the encoder stopped in the middle position for more than 500mS, it will treat the clicks as normal clicks instead drag clicks.
It might need additional timing tweaking, and could cause more problems that it fixes.Something is wrong with the encoder changes you made, with the normal/reverse setting. I have a Bourns encoder, needs "reverse". When it powers up, it works backwards as if it's set to normal. If I go into Settings/System, it's still set to reverse there. If I change it - reverse to normal to reverse - then it's fine until the next power cycle. If I set it to "normal", it always works backwards. So, it's acting like it's always set to "normal" at powerup.
they sent me the specs so im just going off that. thats why i said ill see how they are when they arrive.
yes i can put in on the scope tomm when im in the office ill bring it with me and have a look. i think i found what "seems" to be a happy area where its not overshooting and temps are almost spot on. this is 150-30-0 or slight variations of that seems good also, the stock firmware was 0100-0030-0100 but that made it way worse. with that it was a mess. but using the 150-30-0 after a calibration im literally around 3deg over at 300c, spot on at 350, 4 deg under at 375 and 2 deg over at 400c (ksger tip). and stable it seems. ill continue to test it as a main station and see how it does. i also have c245 and c210 tips i can test also. ill power it off the bench psu and see if that helps also.
whats odd is i even erased and reflashed then did a reset-all. did not touch the pid at all left it as was and it was reading crazy high like 650-700 no iron then i adjusted the pid and got the same high readings and no iron. then i put it aside to get some stuff done and came back a couple hours later and did another reset -all (did not reflash) did not touch the pid settings and tip it was not overshooting anymore, its just weird was all thats why i was like hmmmm temps were off but it was not going nuts.
i saw a station on you tube (homeade one) where he had it graph out the pid is that possible with these chips or would they need to be more powerful?
Now you got it more or less stable, try EMA filtering. First try a factor of 1, if it does better try 2. I wouldn't go further, but you can try.
About these pid stock values, where did you took them from?
You didn't say if the tips were new. The way it fixed itself by leaving it running suggest that it could be the case?
Do the ksger actually allow PID tuning? Didn't knew that.
I think they actually set a very high PID but also disable it when reaching the temp to prevent overshoot.
The weird corner: Ouch. The graph also expected Celsius only. Fixed and updated. Try it.