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#3350 Reply
Posted by
ygi
on 13 Mar, 2023 23:19
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Nope, there's no such open hardware project for this firmware. I'm pretty sure you could find gerber files for ksger/quicko controller boards but calling them open source would be a stretch.
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#3351 Reply
Posted by
totalnoob
on 14 Mar, 2023 01:45
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The original thought was to document the various KSGER and Quicko boards with the hope that someone created a better, open source version that worked with an improved, open source FW (which there was a promising avenue at the time this thread was started but it worked on limited HW, this was before Dave stepped up and developed his FW). Since Dave's firmware works with various brands with slightly differing HW, there appears to be less of an appetite to develop the HW end. I agree that with a mature firmware, this is ripe for someone to develop an open source HW solution that is better than what KSGER and Quicko and others sell.
This is well beyond my capabilities, so I am not in any way shape or form volunteering, but I would encourage anyone with this talent and inclination to give it a try and I'll cheer that person on. I am a bit surprised because the Unisolder project appears to be very popular, this seems like it might be simpler, albeit with fewer choices in handle (predominantly T12 and various JBC handles, while Unisolder's claim to fame is the ability to adjust it to almost any commercially available soldering handle).
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#3352 Reply
Posted by
ricktendo
on 16 Mar, 2023 15:22
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#3353 Reply
Posted by
DavidAlfa
on 16 Mar, 2023 16:27
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That board is basically a Quicko, sort-of-enhanced layout, done on a rainy day, untested, also probably unfinished.
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#3354 Reply
Posted by
yelkvi
on 20 Mar, 2023 17:42
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It's all in David's instructions.
Read carefully.
Display 4 PIN means V2.
V3 for 6PIN display.
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#3355 Reply
Posted by
mastershake
on 22 Mar, 2023 00:59
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the new ksger vs oled firmware if i go into calibration then to settings i get "error detected aborting!" any idea why possibly?
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#3356 Reply
Posted by
DavidAlfa
on 22 Mar, 2023 07:45
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Could you explain better how to reproduce the issue?
AFAIK, nothing has changed in calibration for a long, long time.
BTW, how's your eyesight going?
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#3357 Reply
Posted by
mastershake
on 22 Mar, 2023 14:54
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i go to the calibration menu select settings and see that message. not really sure how else to explain it??
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#3358 Reply
Posted by
DavidAlfa
on 22 Mar, 2023 15:04
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With tip inserted? There must be a tip present both for calibration and settings (Because you calibrate the amp offset there).
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#3359 Reply
Posted by
mastershake
on 22 Mar, 2023 15:51
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yes correct. let me try a reflash just for the heck of it ill erase and re flash sometimes ive seen some odd things and a reflash worked. ill let you know when i get home.
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#3360 Reply
Posted by
pupkinv
on 24 Mar, 2023 09:08
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#3361 Reply
Posted by
CrysisLTU
on 25 Mar, 2023 11:37
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Does anybody have a wiring diagram for a JBC C210 handle? Been struggling to correctly wire it to a GX12-5 connector and can't get it to work (NTC low/high errors).. My station is a KSGER T12 V2.1
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#3362 Reply
Posted by
yelkvi
on 25 Mar, 2023 12:56
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(NTC low/high errors)..
The C210 handle does not have an NTC resistor like the T12.
Therefore, you need to either mount it, or disable NTC in the settings
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#3363 Reply
Posted by
DavidAlfa
on 25 Mar, 2023 14:54
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Did it work with the T12? Otherwise it might have a stm32 clone.
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#3364 Reply
Posted by
rokko
on 26 Mar, 2023 00:47
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What would be the correct way to calibrate BCF1 tip with FG-100 device? It has really small contact area of it's tinned surface, should I place it straight on the sensor or with it's side area (even if it is chrome plated) like any other small tips with bigger tinned surface (I and J series)? Because difference may be around 15-20 degrees at 300-350 range depending on the placement. Currently my calibration looks like this (all tips are burned in, using good blob of solder on the probe, adding a bit of rosin flux to refresh it when solder becomes mat, keeping tip on the sensor around 5-7 seconds and moving around to find hottest spot, letting sensor to cool down between measurements):
BCF1 - 250: 1875, 400: 3300
BCF2 - 250: 1800, 400: 3075
BCF3 - 250: 1675, 400: 2750
J02 - 250: 1800, 400: 3175
D52 - 250: 1700, 400: 2750
Is it ok that BCF1, BCF2, J02 are measured 380 C when set at 400 C (BCF3 - 385 C, D52 - 400 C), but all of them are very precise at 250, 300 and 350 points (I was measuring at them during manual calibration)? I am mostly interested in 300-350 C range precision.
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#3365 Reply
Posted by
DavidAlfa
on 26 Mar, 2023 02:39
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I think you already answered yourself:
keeping tip on the sensor around 5-7 seconds and moving around to find hottest spot
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#3366 Reply
Posted by
CrysisLTU
on 26 Mar, 2023 05:06
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(NTC low/high errors)..
The C210 handle does not have an NTC resistor like the T12.
Therefore, you need to either mount it, or disable NTC in the settings
Would you be willing to provide a wiring diagram? Thanks
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#3367 Reply
Posted by
yelkvi
on 26 Mar, 2023 06:46
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Your question has been discussed many times in this thread. Read the last three pages. There are diagrams and answers to questions. If you don't understand something, then ask.
I did not install an NTC resistor on my soldering station v2.1S (C245), but simply turned off its polling in the setup menu. I did not notice any inconvenience in soldering.
Please note that you have a C210 cartridge. It has a supply voltage of 12 volts. Therefore, it is advisable to replace the power supply in your soldering station. For T12, the operating voltage is 24 volts.
In addition, the pinout of your cartridge can be viewed, for example here:
http://adgd.ru/2021/01/04/jbc-soldering-cartridges-pinouts/Or Google - "JBC C210 pinout"
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#3368 Reply
Posted by
CrysisLTU
on 28 Mar, 2023 04:46
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Thanks, disabling NTC in the menu did the trick and the iron works now. Obviously needs proper calibration, but at least by setting the temperature to 180C , adjusting the calibration values until leaded solder just starts to melt got me in the right ballpark for now.
I guess the question now is - is there any advantage in using an NTC versus not using one?
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#3369 Reply
Posted by
ygi
on 28 Mar, 2023 13:15
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Realistically speaking, it's a soldering iron not a thermometer. If you want to install a NTC go ahead, there's no drawback but it's not going to change anything if your station is 5°C more or less accurate.
As a matter of fact, genuine Hakko doesn't have a NTC in the handpiece, nor does JBC.
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#3370 Reply
Posted by
rokko
on 28 Mar, 2023 16:29
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My aluminium handpiece heats up to 40 C at room temperature 25 C, so it will result in 15 C difference without NTC in it.
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#3371 Reply
Posted by
ygi
on 28 Mar, 2023 20:59
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Do you know precisely what the optimal temperature is for every board and component you work on? Do you work on any component that's so sensitive you can only go 10°C above solder melting point otherwise you might damage it? Or maybe you work on an assembly line and must precisely repeat and validate the same solder joints at a specific t° for compliance?
If not, my point still stands but feel free to do it anyway for your peace of mind.
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#3372 Reply
Posted by
DW1961
on 30 Mar, 2023 05:30
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Why not just get the Hakko FX888D-23BY for $113.00 bucks on Amazon right now, or the 888 for $115?
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#3373 Reply
Posted by
ygi
on 30 Mar, 2023 10:13
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I can think of several reasons:
- it doesn't cost 115$ outside of the US (~220euro here in the EU).
- it's an outdated heating technology that's worse than cartridges in every possible way.
- it looks like a toddler's toy.
- it takes more bench space.
- anyone with a budget in the range of 100~200$ is better off buying a C245 clone or a T12 clone under 100$.
All in all, I spent ~75€ on my T12 station and accessories. For that money I got the station, 2 handpieces (upgraded to an aluminium one), 11x T12 cartridges and an extra screen (replaced original 0.96" OLED with a 1.3"). Cherry on top, it runs David's firmware with UI and ergonomics that make sense because he put in most of the features we could think of collectively.
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#3374 Reply
Posted by
DW1961
on 30 Mar, 2023 16:49
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I can think of several reasons:
- it doesn't cost 115$ outside of the US (~220euro here in the EU).
- it's an outdated heating technology that's worse than cartridges in every possible way.
- it looks like a toddler's toy.
- it takes more bench space.
- anyone with a budget in the range of 100~200$ is better off buying a C245 clone or a T12 clone under 100$.
All in all, I spent ~75€ on my T12 station and accessories. For that money I got the station, 2 handpieces (upgraded to an aluminium one), 11x T12 cartridges and an extra screen (replaced original 0.96" OLED with a 1.3"). Cherry on top, it runs David's firmware with UI and ergonomics that make sense because he put in most of the features we could think of collectively.
You know, I completely missed that it wasn't T12! Good points. That, and the price in EU is crazy. Seems like the EU doesn't want Hakko selling in EU.