Is anyone using the linux minpro software to burn GAL's? I'm trying to write a jedec file to a Lattice 22v10D, but the minipro software just complains about a incorrect filesize.
Hi!,
IRC with GAL minipro software has a Bug...
I used to be able to program the GAL22V10D but found that a software update stopped this from working.
I had to buy the G540 programmer for the GALs that I needed to program afterwards.
So a Firmware and a software downgrade can solve the GAL issue?
Is anyone using the linux minpro software to burn GAL's? I'm trying to write a jedec file to a Lattice 22v10D, but the minipro software just complains about a incorrect filesize.
Hi!,
IRC with GAL minipro software has a Bug...
I used to be able to program the GAL22V10D but found that a software update stopped this from working.
I had to buy the G540 programmer for the GALs that I needed to program afterwards.
So a Firmware and a software downgrade can solve the GAL issue?
IIRC, I installed the earlier software but it didn't like the newer firmware, or something like that. I'm not sure if you can take the firmware backwards.
It seems I got it working with the win7 Software now. At least a verify worked. The linux software checks for the size of the jedec file and if it's smaller than the max size of the IC content, it returns an error (I think line 410 in main.c).
Hi ,
according to my last post (#923) with the Problem try to erase a
M25P128 Flash i have found that this was an Software Bug on V.6.50.
(I use the TL866A with MiniPro V6.50 FW:3.2.72)
In order to erase the Chip successfully you must first reprogramm the
whole chip with 0x00. This works. In the next step you can then erase the chip.
Now you are able to programm the chip with new content..
Hope it helps if you have problems like this.
I'm about to buy one of these..
eBay seller sunwenjun has a tl866a with a "better" black zif socket for almost the same price of the one with the regular socket.
Has anyone found the black socket to be actually better?
I've read here that the black socket is harder to unclip and that may cause excessive pressure to the pcb when doing so many times?
Is this accurate ?
The "black ZIF socket" is a clone of an Aries socket, marked "ARTLY". It appears to be a press-fit design which is not soldered in place.
Press-fit contacts can be removed from the PCB, but they don't come out easily. They are normally left in place.
Why do you think you will be removing the socket from the PCB at all? I can't see any reason for doing that.
The "black ZIF socket" is a clone of an Aries socket, marked "ARTLY". It appears to be a press-fit design which is not soldered in place.
Press-fit contacts can be removed from the PCB, but they don't come out easily. They are normally left in place.
Why do you think you will be removing the socket from the PCB at all? I can't see any reason for doing that.
Who mentioned removing the socket from the PCB?
belzrebuth is concerned about opening and closing the socket when removing and inserting devices to program them.
The "black ZIF socket" is a clone of an Aries socket, marked "ARTLY". It appears to be a press-fit design which is not soldered in place.
Press-fit contacts can be removed from the PCB, but they don't come out easily. They are normally left in place.
Why do you think you will be removing the socket from the PCB at all? I can't see any reason for doing that.
Who mentioned removing the socket from the PCB?
belzrebuth is concerned about opening and closing the socket when removing and inserting devices to program them.
Well duh! You need to learn marketing. Just because a black socket has been sold as "easier insertion" doesn't mean that is for your benefit. Think about it for 1 second.
I was led to believe, by the word "unclip", a procedure of pulling hard on something until it flexes and comes loose, like you would unclip an E-ring. This is something you can do to a component with press-fit contacts. It does not resemble opening and closing a ZIF socket, which takes little or no force.
The green socket is marked "3M". You can speculate as to whether it is or isn't genuine. If it is then that is a well known brand. If it isn't then I doubt there is likely to be any significant difference.
I am inclined to go with the green "3M" marked on because my first thought was the change was for cost saving reasons. Also if you are buying at this end of the market you probably only want something that will work for occasional use.
I am more interested in the claim that it works with Windows 8. IF someone can confirm it works with Windows 8 (and 8.1 and 10) then that would be something. My TOP853 doesn't. I have to keep a WinXP VM around. Not a problem for occasional use.
TL866 MiniPro software totally works with Windows 7 and 10. I never tried it with 8, I was glad to leave that abomination behind with the free upgrade to 10. Ok, I realise I sold my soul for cheap, however I don't think you will have a problem if you persist with running it on '8 (but why?)
There are clone TL866's, - every original I have seen has the green socket. It is possible there are originals with a black socket but if I had a choice I'd go with a green socket just so I had a better chance of getting one that won't brick with the next firmware update. Yes, you can repair it but why go through the ordeal.
The "black ZIF socket" is a clone of an Aries socket, marked "ARTLY". It appears to be a press-fit design which is not soldered in place.
Press-fit contacts can be removed from the PCB, but they don't come out easily. They are normally left in place.
Why do you think you will be removing the socket from the PCB at all? I can't see any reason for doing that.
I've got a genuine TL866A with an Aries socket (Not ARTLY), it's also removable if I wear the socket out, no idea if it's a genuine Aries socket but it certainly feels/looks like one.
I've had this about 3 years now and still works perfectly. I would recommend the removable socket version especially as there is an unknown certainty to the authenticity to any of the
sockets the TL866A are fitted with or durability so it makes a swap out later on much easier.
Regarding
belzrebuth's post, from what I understand the seller sunwenjun is an "official seller"
So that will be definitely be a genuine TL866A from there regardless of sockets.
Here are some images of my TL866A with an Aries socket.
*EDIT* Added picture with ZIF removed.
I got my green socketed device from this seller and it has been fine until a later software update messed up some GAL algorithm.
I got my green socketed device from this seller and it has been fine until a later software update messed up some GAL algorithm.
That's applicable to any TL866 though, has another update fixed it yet? I read that some people were trying to downgrade the software and firmware. No idea if they were successful though.
When device programmers are used in production, being able to replace the ZIF sockets is a really important feature. Sure, it may take tens of thousands of cycles to wear out the socket, but that's not very much when each product has dozens of chips. The 3M Textool series also can be replaced if the appropriate socket "receptacle" is used.
I just don't see something like the MiniPro being used in production; maybe it is?
When device programmers are used in production, being able to replace the ZIF sockets is a really important feature. Sure, it may take tens of thousands of cycles to wear out the socket, but that's not very much when each product has dozens of chips. The 3M Textool series also can be replaced if the appropriate socket "receptacle" is used.
I just don't see something like the MiniPro being used in production; maybe it is?
10's of thousands with a genuine socket, no idea with these 3M clones though, also as this is targeted for the hobby market people may be more likely to damage the socket by accident possibly?
When I worded for LG Electronics we had an issue with the production line VGA sockets for calibrating the monitors/tv's as they came up the line, they would wear out VERY quickly. So what we did was stack a few Male To Female gender adapters in there and swapped them as they failed, which gave the original socket a MUCH longer life, especially if we stacked a few in there as you would only replace the worn ones, with 1 adapter you would get X amount of life out of the original socket, with 2 adapters you would get even more. Such a simple and cheap fix.
I got my green socketed device from this seller and it has been fine until a later software update messed up some GAL algorithm.
That's applicable to any TL866 though, has another update fixed it yet? I read that some people were trying to downgrade the software and firmware. No idea if they were successful though.
I know that thanks. I was just stating that I'd been ok with this seller and his / her offering.
Regarding another update, once bitten twice shy as they say.
hello forum i wonder if someone can help us out with this small issue
i got this week a TL866 CS programmer from ebay and its not the new model A
which of course missing the icsp port
so i got my soldering kit out and follow the instructions and installed my own.
i follow the guide that radioman did which i would like to say thank you for.
and now the programmer is the A version
the main issue im having is when i go to use the icsp port everything looks good
but when i go to read a pic 16f877a
it reads the check successful no problem.
but there is no data hex or check sum its all blank
so then i go and use the programmer again but use the zif socket instead and it reads the data and check sum perfect.
very weird issue im having as i see nobody else with the same problem as me.
i have recheck everything the wire and the connector and the programmer is the new A version
minipro v6.50
version 03.2.72
MODEL TL866A
any help on this would be great as im lost what to do next
thank you
Hi James,
So the programmer recognizes the device ID correctly, right?
Are you sure there isn't any problem with ICSP conection? Have you tried reading the device alone (not in circuit) with the ICSP connection? Can you test with another MCU?
You can also try using an external VCC source and disable "ICSP_VCC Enable" in the GUI icsp options...
hello yes tried it with others
and also disable the disable "ICSP_VCC Enable"
the programmer recognizes the device ID correctly
it reads the chip successful no problem.
but there is no data hex and the check sum remains all blank
it does it on all of them.
i have rechecked the ICSP conection and its correct.
i will test it again when i get home
thank you
forgot to say i use the enable button someone posted on the forum to enable the icsp connection
as it does not let you highlight it and that the only way it will let us.
could it be a program updated to block this from working on the icsp connections
forgot to say i use the enable button someone posted on the forum to enable the icsp connection
as it does not let you highlight it and that the only way it will let us.
If you have correctly done the upgrade to the A version you don't need any external program to enable the icsp feature.
So there is someting bad with your upgrade procedure...
this is what im talking about very weird issue im having works fine by the zif socket
but the icsp nothing at all
i have redone the firmware again and now tried it with
minipro v6.50 new version same issues
try to post some pics of you pcb and you work
maybe some components are missing or bad solder
let other users to compare
sometimes 4 eyes are better than 2