The brush to use on files is called a card brush
The brush to use on files is called a card brush
The brush to use on files is called a card brush
Definitely, from what I remember using a brass brush on a file is a pretty good way to wreck it and if my metalwork (shop?) teacher caught us using anything other than the card brush we would be given a stern lecture about how not to destroy his files. (filing aluminium without using a lubricant was also a fairly dangerous thing to risk getting caught doing)
The brush to use on files is called a card brush
Definitely, from what I remember using a brass brush on a file is a pretty good way to wreck it and if my metalwork (shop?) teacher caught us using anything other than the card brush we would be given a stern lecture about how not to destroy his files. (filing aluminium without using a lubricant was also a fairly dangerous thing to risk getting caught doing)
I'm amazed at the things people say & believe sometimes.
Please explain how soft, fine brass wire tips are going to damage the high-carbon steel of a file? Considering that the file can cut into solid brass all day and not get blunt.
As opposed to the hardened spring steel of any kind of steel wire brush. You _can_ use a steel wire brush, if you're careful to only run parallel to the file grooves. Which you do if you're trying to remove stuck swarf. Go the other way and you might as well file hardened steel (ie throw the file away, because you just ruined it.)
The card brush is useful because the bristles are both short and mounted in a flexible base sheet that allows them to tilt. So it's a way to apply a stiff but limited force to stuck swarf. But I don't bother with them - just one more rarely used special tool I can do without.
Personally to clean files I never use anything but soft brass wire brushes, and kerosene as a releasing/penetrating lubricant (because it's cheaper than WD40.) If some metal has stubbornly stuck, then run the tip of a scriber along the file grooves that need cleaning.
I just got a TDS220 from my favorite dumpster.
When I powered it, the screen was dark, but I noticed that it was working. obviously, the CCFL tube was dead.
I checked the power supply that looked OK, and ordered a CCFL on aliexpress.
The best deal I found was 10 for 16 € ( in fact I received 11, so its less than 1.5 € each).
I have changed now the CCFL. Many plastic parts were very brittle, and I had to use some Kapton tape for remounting,
but everything is now fine and in working order.
So the total cost of the repair was 1.5€.
..............
Yesterday I managed to 'win' an Ebay auction for an Agilent N3305A 150V/60A 500W electronic load module listed 'for parts'.
Recently someone was selling Fluke 27/fm meters on ebay for $15 US ea with free shipping.
Picked up an older Analogue Scope, Tektronix 2236, for $135 in Australia (Melb) this morning.
Recently someone was selling Fluke 27/fm meters on ebay for $15 US ea with free shipping.Originating thread might be at
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=310451&sid=dbeba29713fb8afd3b55daad910f56c8
Picked up an older Analogue Scope, Tektronix 2236, for $135 in Australia (Melb) this morning.
Nice! The first used Tek scope i bought was a 2236. I still enoy using it. The multimeter functions are not much use in the age of cheap DMMs but the counter and scope measurement functions I still find useful.
No cheap DMM will measure 2 Gohm, I can assure you of that. And most won't have a low ohm range with 0.01 ohm resolution either.
Good point! I guess since I don't recall having yet had the need to measure resistance at either of those extremes, I hadn't considered that! Cool - another justification for keeping it around! (Next time my wife asks why I need so many of those things.. .)
Good point! I guess since I don't recall having yet had the need to measure resistance at either of those extremes, I hadn't considered that! Cool - another justification for keeping it around! (Next time my wife asks why I need so many of those things.. .)
Just noticed the the CTM is registering 957Hz with the probe on 1Khz probe adj. Don't know if it's the CTM or the probe adj...probably the latter.
edit:
Ahh ....quote from Yahoo Tek group .."The spec. for the 2236 states the "probe adjust" produces 1kHz +/- 20% @ .5V +/- 5%. My scope is producing 940 Hz @ .5V p-p." Its normal.
Exactly why you mustn't use the internal probe cal output to make ANY internal adjustment of a scope.
But some scopes have an internal frequency adjustment for the probe cal output and when they do it's handy to set it close to the spec'ed 1KHz even if it's only for sanity checks.
Exactly why you mustn't use the internal probe cal output to make ANY internal adjustment of a scope.
But some scopes have an internal frequency adjustment for the probe cal output and when they do it's handy to set it close to the spec'ed 1KHz even if it's only for sanity checks.
Many thanks I'll look this up I know the CTM has an adjustable TXCO...but I'd need a ref std before fiddling with that.
Picked up an older Analogue Scope, Tektronix 2236, for $135 in Australia (Melb) this morning.
Nice! The first used Tek scope i bought was a 2236. I still enoy using it. The multimeter functions are not much use in the age of cheap DMMs but the counter and scope measurement functions I still find useful.No cheap DMM will measure 2 Gohm, I can assure you of that. And most won't have a low ohm range with 0.01 ohm resolution either. The 8-digit 100 MHz counter is also useful if you don't have something better on the bench.