Hah! Im in your boat... the more i keep looking at this pace the more i feel im being sucked in. Recommended tips for power electronics with minimal oxidizing?
If you're working with heat-sinking power electronics, I recommend our Ultra-Performance Tips, which are designed with optimized tip geometries and increased thermal pipeline to deliver the maximum heat throughput. They are thicker and shorter tips, designed to transfer heat. Go to
www.paceworldwide.com/ads200 and click on the "Tip-Heater Cartridges" link at the top of the page.
Aaron
What would the ballpark price be on the separate stand--just need to see how much more the combined price would be?
I'm hoping the combined price of the ADS200 with SetBack Tool Stand will be $270, but it could go up or down depending on a meeting we are having this Thursday. We'll be pinning down the price of the SetBack Tool Stand and combine ADS200 with SetBack on this date, so I'll give an update later this week.
Also, can you describe the difference between the Ultra-Performance and Standard tips? In particular in terms of longevity.
The Standard Tips are based on the most popular Tip Heater Cartridge geometries used on our previous IntelliHeat controlled soldering stations (e.g. ST-50, ST-30, ST-70), while the Ultra-Performance Tips are based on the thicker and higher thermal mass WJS 100 tips. See the attached image. The Standard Tips are thinner (and cost a bit less) than the thicker Ultra-Performance Tips.
Concerning tip life, the Ultra-Performance Tips are likely to last longer, especially when compared to the fine-point tips, because the protective iron plating is much more consistent all the way around since the tip end is physically larger. Of course, this will depend upon your using the "common sense soldering practices" that I discussed below.
Aaron
Hi Aaron, so it will be possible to buy one ADS200 with Set-back stand in UK by the end of April? What is the best option to buy: directly from Pace or you can recommended an UK distributors which will have them on stock?
Another hobby use...
l
Question: if I decide to buy mini-tweezers can I operate them at the same time with soldering iron without disconnecting it? Or do I need a second base unit for this ?
Hah! Im in your boat... the more i keep looking at this pace the more i feel im being sucked in. Recommended tips for power electronics with minimal oxidizing?
If you're working with heat-sinking power electronics, I recommend our Ultra-Performance Tips, which are designed with optimized tip geometries and increased thermal pipeline to deliver the maximum heat throughput. They are thicker and shorter tips, designed to transfer heat. Go to www.paceworldwide.com/ads200 and click on the "Tip-Heater Cartridges" link at the top of the page.
Aaron
Yup! After looking it over I bought one last night and an assortment of tips suited to that and some others.. really like the J hook/bent style ones too for those qfns
Now just need a stand, hopefully its not to much more on its own vs packaged! Or us forum users can get a deal ;p
Think I was at 280 out the door. The tip price is fantastic... Probly get more once it comes in mid April or so.
Hi Aaron, so it will be possible to buy one ADS200 with Set-back stand in UK by the end of April? What is the best option to buy: directly from Pace or you can recommended an UK distributors which will have them on stock?
Another hobby use...
l
Question: if I decide to buy mini-tweezers can I operate them at the same time with soldering iron without disconnecting it? Or do I need a second base unit for this ?
The standard ADS unit will be available by the end of April, but I doubt the ADS200 with SetBack Tool Stand will be available until mid-May. Mainly because the parts for the Tool Stand all arrive during the 3rd week of April, meaning it will take time to assemble, then it takes 3 weeks to ship to UK (we ship all stock to PACE Europe via slow boat to China ...).
Concerning the best option to buy, you can equally purchase direct through our website or through a distributor. In the UK, it may be faster to buy direct, but I'd recommend you buy through the local distributor if you are located outside of the UK in Europe. If you are already buying through a PACE authorized distributor, go with that distributor. For European Distributors, see the link below:
www.paceworldwide.com/where-to-buy/reps-and-distributors/europeAaron
Aaron, thanks for providing so much useful information. Some advice I'd never think of.
Since I do service work I'd expect to go through tips faster than is typical for a production environment with new assembly. Removing old components tends to be rough tips. Sometimes the solder joint can be 40-50 years old or more and have no idea what type of solder was used back in the day. Perhaps I should use separate tips for those jobs.
I use more than one type of solder too but always leaded types. I tend to use 60/40 on repair work or especially older stuff because I think it mixes well with older solder, as opposed to eutectic types. I used to buy Radio Shack solder because I liked the flow. I use Kester 63/37 for new clean joints and connectors microphone/ guitar cables etc. I also use Cardas Quad Eutectic solder for some higher end work.
Do you know if it's bad for tips to mix solder types? Are some fluxes more corrosive to the tips? Have you run into situations where certain brands of solder are more corrosive to tips?
Sorry to ask so many questions.
Thanks
Question: if I decide to buy mini-tweezers can I operate them at the same time with soldering iron without disconnecting it? Or do I need a second base unit for this ?
Oops, I missed this question. Since the ADS200 is a single output system, you would have to unplug the TD-200 Iron and then plug in the MiniTweez. The unit and handpieces are "hot-swappable", meaning you can unplug the Iron and plug in the MiniTweez without having to turn off the unit. The ADS200 has been designed to stack so you could dedicate one unit to soldering and the other to MiniTweez if you wanted, but it will cost you more money, of course. See photo below.
Aaron, thanks for providing so much useful information. Some advice I'd never think of.
Since I do service work I'd expect to go through tips faster than is typical for a production environment with new assembly. Removing old components tends to be rough tips. Sometimes the solder joint can be 40-50 years old or more and have no idea what type of solder was used back in the day. Perhaps I should use separate tips for those jobs.
I use more than one type of solder too but always leaded types. I tend to use 60/40 on repair work or especially older stuff because I think it mixes well with older solder, as opposed to eutectic types. I used to buy Radio Shack solder because I liked the flow. I use Kester 63/37 for new clean joints and connectors microphone/ guitar cables etc. I also use Cardas Quad Eutectic solder for some higher end work.
Do you know if it's bad for tips to mix solder types? Are some fluxes more corrosive to the tips? Have you run into situations where certain brands of solder are more corrosive to tips?
Sorry to ask so many questions.
Thanks
I use separate tips, the main one you dont want to cross is rhos vs lead... i still have like new tips for my weller due to much to what he spelled out earlier. Also avoid being abrasive with your tips, that goes for both making the joint and cleaning afterwards.
You might also consider using a different tip for removal of junk parts where you can be more abrasive in the removal process and not worry so much about destroying your good tip
I use more than one type of solder too but always leaded types. I tend to use 60/40 on repair work or especially older stuff because I think it mixes well with older solder, as opposed to eutectic types. I used to buy Radio Shack solder because I liked the flow. I use Kester 63/37 for new clean joints and connectors microphone/ guitar cables etc. I also use Cardas Quad Eutectic solder for some higher end work.
Do you know if it's bad for tips to mix solder types? Are some fluxes more corrosive to the tips? Have you run into situations where certain brands of solder are more corrosive to tips?
Sorry to ask so many questions.
Thanks
No problem on the questions! I think it's technically ok to mix solder types, as long as the end result is already a tin-lead alloy. Eutectic solder (63/37) has no plastic range, meaning it changes from solid to liquidus at exactly 183°C/361°F. 60/40 solder starts to melt at 183°C/361°F but is not fully liquidus until it reaches 188°C (370°F) and therefore has a plastic range of 5°C/9°F. This means that you are more likely to have a disturbed joint if you move the component or lead while it is still solidifying. So with eutectic (63/37) solder it melts within 1°F/C and you are less likely to have bad solder joints. So at its worst, you might be changing the melting point or plastic range a bit by mixing the 2 alloys together, but if you are a decent solderer, it doesn't matter.
Now let's look at the opposite situation: mixing leaded with lead-free solder - this is a definite no-no! It's of much more concern as you have just violated the pcb's RoHS status ... it is no longer complient with RoHS regulation as it is not lead-free!
Aaron
I use separate tips, the main one you dont want to cross is rhos vs lead... i still have like new tips for my weller due to much to what he spelled out earlier. Also avoid being abrasive with your tips, that goes for both making the joint and cleaning afterwards.
You might also consider using a different tip for removal of junk parts where you can be more abrasive in the removal process and not worry so much about destroying your good tip
Sometimes I tend pry component leads with the tip of the iron. Especially if I'm getting frustrated with a difficult job. The Weller tips have held up pretty well considering. If Pace tips last as long I'll be happy. They're reasonably priced. BTW, I've always used a wet sponge to clean the tip. I probably should change my bad habits. It may be difficult though because something about cleaning without a liquid bothers me. I have a bit of OCD. Always washing my hands. I worked with an engineer who used to clean tip of the iron on the front of his jeans.
Something I forgot to ask, does the same bracket 1321-0609-P1 also fit this?
Something I forgot to ask, does the same bracket 1321-0609-P1 also fit this?
Yes, the Optional Mounting Bracket PN 1321-0609-P1 will work with the ADS200.
Aaron
I ordered one from TEquipment to give a try to! I've been using a WES51 which takes it time flowing the pads of some SMA diodes a 700 deg F, so I'm curious to see how the Pace does with those. I am also wanting smaller/more precise tips for 0.5mm pitch stuff and perhaps to try my luck at some drag soldering. I like the idea of an aluminum iron - it looks nice and compact.
What is special about the 1130-0050-P1 tip (it says it is special!)?
Your stations are out of my budget, unfortunately. It sure looks like a good station though!
When you design and test soldering tips, which solder is being used?
When you design and test soldering tips, which solder is being used?
IMHO, if they make mil-spec products for NASA, they're sure to test with all solder compositions.
I ordered one from TEquipment to give a try to! I've been using a WES51 which takes it time flowing the pads of some SMA diodes a 700 deg F, so I'm curious to see how the Pace does with those. I am also wanting smaller/more precise tips for 0.5mm pitch stuff and perhaps to try my luck at some drag soldering. I like the idea of an aluminum iron - it looks nice and compact.
What is special about the 1130-0050-P1 tip (it says it is special!)?
It's a special version of our 1/128” Conical (0.20mm) 1130-0036-P1 Tip. We slightly beveled the ends of the extremely fine point end of the 0036 tip (generally used for micro-soldering and 0201/0402 soldering), so that it would transfer more heat. See image attached.
Aaron
When you design and test soldering tips, which solder is being used?
All of our tips are designed to work with lead-free solder, SAC 305 in particular. All tips are plated with a protective coating of iron from 7-9mils thick, which are the minimum/maximum thickness of iron plating you want for lead-free applications. If there is too little iron plating (e.g. 4-5 mils), the tips will not last long as lead-free solder is aggressively corrosive at any temperature over solder melt. In general, the higher the tin content, the more destructive to the protective iron plating. If there is too much iron plating (11+mils), the tip will take much longer to heat up and will not respond quickly. Note that when tips are designed for lead-free use, the tips work fabulously with leaded solder and last much longer.
Aaron
Is the full user guide available yet? I saw a link to it in the quick start, but it doesn't work.
Also, is there a minimum temp for the min-max temp range AND/OR the 3 user settings?
I don't often leave an iron on, but I figured since I was not getting the base that can sleep that I'd just change the temp manually using that 3 presets. I could just set one of the presets to a low number like 300 deg F, etc.
Is the full user guide available yet? I saw a link to it in the quick start, but it doesn't work.
Also, is there a minimum temp for the min-max temp range AND/OR the 3 user settings?
I don't often leave an iron on, but I figured since I was not getting the base that can sleep that I'd just change the temp manually using that 3 presets. I could just set one of the presets to a low number like 300 deg F, etc.
Hey, that's an outstanding idea about pre-setting a lower temperature! Temperature range is 193-454°C (380-850°F) -- the unit comes with a default setting of 500°-800°F but this range can be changed. All Pre-Set temperatures can be changed by going into a Program Mode, so yes, you could program a pre-set for 380°F or 193°C. Not optimum for an idling temperature (better if it were a bit lower), but definitely adequate!
The full Operations Manual is being worked on as we speak and should be online by early next week.
Great suggestion on the Pre-Set!
Aaron
Put in a request with those firmware guys to allow lower than 380 to whatever the sleep temp is in future firmware revisions. No reason not to have that flexibility, right?
Also - another question. I noticed in the video there was a clip device used for changing tips to keep from burning your hands, etc. Is that included with the ADS200? I saw in some videos that you use to use a flexible heat pad it looked like.
Also - another question. I noticed in the video there was a clip device used for changing tips to keep from burning your hands, etc. Is that included with the ADS200? I saw in some videos that you use to use a flexible heat pad it looked like.
Yes, the Tip Tool comes with the ADS200, and also includes the Silicone Pad. I much prefer the Tip Tool (it's safer and faster when changing tips) - and cringe when I see someone using that Pad! The Pad attaches to the cord, but it weighs it down. The Tip Tool stores easily in the front of the Tool Stand. With the Tip Tool, you can easily change a hot tip within 2 seconds. See attached image.
Aaron
Put in a request with those firmware guys to allow lower than 380 to whatever the sleep temp is in future firmware revisions. No reason not to have that flexibility, right?
I will make the suggestion!
Aaron
I don't imagine the firmware is user upgradable, is it?
I don't imagine the firmware is user upgradable, is it?
No it's not normally user-upgradeable since we have to reprogram a component then change it out.
Aaron