seems to have done the trick, I took it off the bench supply at 18.3V (still drawing 2Amps) and put it on the charger - success, charging ok - showing 2 LEDs on battery.
I'm now more surprised that Makita brick their batteries?
... and less annoyed with Milwaukee, Screwfix and Badadaptor
Every pack has a unique ID and when some chargers fail to start charging after 3 insertions of a pack they lock it out.
The trick is to know about boosting the one cell that gets drawn down by the battery circuitry to a level the charger can like and accept it to charge.
Many tradies moved from Makita lithium tools because of this.
Every pack has a unique ID and when some chargers fail to start charging after 3 insertions of a pack they lock it out.
The trick is to know about boosting the one cell that gets drawn down by the battery circuitry to a level the charger can like and accept it to charge.
Many tradies moved from Makita lithium tools because of this.
Does that mean that another Makita charger [not ones that have had those 3 insertions] would charge my unique id battery if its cells were brought back into the correct voltage levels?
Every pack has a unique ID and when some chargers fail to start charging after 3 insertions of a pack they lock it out.
The trick is to know about boosting the one cell that gets drawn down by the battery circuitry to a level the charger can like and accept it to charge.
Many tradies moved from Makita lithium tools because of this.
Does that mean that another Makita charger [not ones that have had those 3 insertions] would charge my unique id battery if its cells were brought back into the correct voltage levels?
I believe so however not 100% sure on that as the charger might flag the cell.
My son invested in Milwaukee tools to leave these issues behind and now his Makita gear is relegated to home usage.
Ask Mr Google.
Does that mean that another Makita charger [not ones that have had those 3 insertions] would charge my unique id battery if its cells were brought back into the correct voltage levels?
Not for the one I tried, it was locked out from any charger.
Found this tonight while thrifting, always wanted one, but not for the 300$ US with shipping from eBay. I love this styling, a mish mash of '60s-'70s color schemes and '70s-'80s rectangles , and the all important dbx logo.
All works correctly, the tape type sensor works, the thingy lights up behind the cassette, very stylish, just needs a dusting and pots need cleaning, that's it.
A Siemens D1010 20MHz Oscillarzet with adequately shielded X-ray radiation.
Look at those clamps!
For all you kelvin clip fanboys...
I'm mentally trying to think ... can I extend that concept for 1206, 0805, or even (shudder) 0603 ?
I'm mentally trying to think ... can I extend that concept for 1206, 0805, or even (shudder) 0603 ?
Maybe something with pogo pins? See attached.
It's from
IMSAI Guy video #1700.
More 4-wire foolishness... This time with SMD!
1210 on the clip with 0805 and 0603 below for reference (lower left photo).
I'll need to break-out the sewing needles for the latter two.
I'm here for a fun time, not a long time
.
A used Fluke 52-II thermometer.
Just bought a lot of transistors, in a 750 piece Bojack
kit from Amazon - very promptly delivered - and I have confirmed in my feedback that the kit was as described.
Of course, I don't believe that statement totally - but obviously in an enough of a way to tick that box
Got a working set of Tek 1103 power supply and P6245 active probe. Finally have an active probe setup for the lab.
A voltcraft digi scop converter 500.
That old device works also on a digital one:
A voltcraft digi scop converter 500.
Picked up a pneumatic solder dispenser.
Was meant to have a 24V external adaptor, but the unit I got was unit that took 240V with an internal transformer.
Built quality was pretty good overall, pneumatics inside were solid and fixed well. 99.9% of the internal wiring was decent with wire that was rated well above the operating current.
The only problem was the internal earth wire was a 1mm (maybe a little smaller) wire that was soldered to the fused input socket and then the other end floating around the transformer housing. Replaced that with a decent wire and verified all the metal work was earthed.
Unit works well with no air leaks.
A Rohde & Schwarz NGL 35:
A Metcal MX-500P with a soldering iron, a desoldering tweezer and two stands:
A HP 4329A TOhm meter:
You will love the Metcal!
A Metcal MX-500P with a soldering iron, a desoldering tweezer and two stands:
The schematics of the Metcal MX-500 is a piece of art.
An Arduino UNO R4 WiFi just dropped in my pouch:
An Upduino 3.1 FPGA board and I2S amplifier and I2S microphone. I plan to play with microphone arrays and this seems to be a good fit. Also look for free verilog tool chains and landed hapyly on
Apaio, easy installation and easy operation.