Yes I have owned both styles of nibblers, and IMHO, the Adel is clearly superior both in design and in construction to the generic chrome thing, at least the ones that I had/have. I have not used the Knipex style.
I'm installing an IEC 320 power inlet connector in place of a formerly fixed AC mains cable on a piece of gear, and since my 30+ year old POS Rat Shack nibbler is nowhere to be found I decided to bite the bullet and buy some real nibblers. Brown Santa just dropped these two off, courtesy of Amazon:
-Pat
I still have the radio shack nibblers I got almost 30 years ago as a kid. How are your new nibblers different/better?
I haven't used the Knipex ones yet, but had used the Adel type at my old job. The Rat Shack ones I have are this style:
And I was never crazy about the ergonomics of them. The way the handles curve makes your grip more inclined to slide towards the narrow part where you have less leverage to squeeze them closed, making it more difficult and uncomfortable to use them. And the orientation means that if you hold them cutter up so you can see what you're cutting, the widest part of the handles (where you have most mechanical advantage) is at your smallest, weakest finger, and the strongest part of your hand is where it does the least good leverage-wise.
The Adels are the opposite - the part you squeeze falls naturally between the web of your thumb and your index finger - the strongest part of your grip. A slight downside to them is that they have a little spring loaded clamping cap on the cutter that helps to hold the material being cut against the anvil, and this requires a slightly larger hole to start the cut, but unless you're trying to make a really tiny opening, this isn't an issue.
-Pat
Thanks for the explanation! Ironically, the nature of my repetitive strain injury weakens my index finger, such that my rat shack ones (precisely the ones you showed) forcing me to squeeze with the other fingers is probably better for me!
As for the minimum hole size: even bigger? Yeesh! I find the 1/4” minimum annoying already! :p
An Alkaline Duracell attacked a quite expensive remote control and that was the last straw.
After 6 leaking Procell batteries killed my F289, I've never used a single Duracell. To be precisely, not a single alkaline except some Energizers in cheaper devices.
All my devices that worth something that I don't want to lose, I use Energizer Alkaline Ultimate now. Energizer claims they will never leak.
They claim if the alkaline leaks, they cover your loss. If the lithium leaks, that's impossible. That should mean something.
Same here got a bunch of duracell AA/AAAs killing lots of things in last year they just died in low power devices within 6months that usually run for 3-5 years, and all cells had exp date like 2020+..
Edit: after this happened now I remove all cells from all DMMs, etc if Im not planing to use them for some time, and switched to eneloops/lithiums where possible
The PicoAmp Meter and OEM GPIB.
All my devices that worth something that I don't want to lose, I use Energizer Alkaline Ultimate now. Energizer claims they will never leak.
They claim if the alkaline leaks, they cover your loss. If the lithium leaks, that's impossible. That should mean something.
I recall there was a sizable thread here about leaking batteries. Although people have varying experiences with this or that brand, in aggregate it doesn't matter. Alkalines have a risk of leaking. If you value the device, don't use alkaline batteries.
Yes, some manufacturers claim theirs don't leak and provide warranties to cover the loss from leakage (I've used them before when those "guaranteed not to leak" promises failed), but you'll have to go through the time and hassle of the claim process.
Of course, if you're not going to use a device for an extended period of time, take the batteries out regardless of the type. Even if they aren't prone to leaking, at least you can use those batteries elsewhere in the meantime.
there is a video lag on the usb models, they are slowed down by the usb link.
there is almost no lag on the models with an integrated screen.
the $45 has a bad stand, I found the same but with the stand of the $189 one (without the leds), it's far better for some $60
then I bought the andonstar 302 model, and it's far far better crisp picture. and no lag at all.
I did not try an external hdmi monitor, but it seems there is also no lag witht hem.
Member Defpom reviewd his one here:
Occasionally he gets it out in other vids he does.
This just in. BOM for Scullcom/Barbouri DIY mV meter. I finally get to play with the LTC2400! Ordered both 4.096 and 1.024 vRef, just to see if I can get the resolution anywhere close to the limits of the 2400.
That bezel was a great fit. Now I want one.
I can recommend the Adonstar 302 for its 8" of working clearance beneath the lens. Image quality is good and yes, HDMI output is available. Latency is low so quite usable for manipulating small objects and soldering of course.
Yesterday I received an additional LED ring light which I'll fit (based on Specmaster's review of the thing - it produces excellent even/flat illumination). Can be bought cheaply off Ebay etc.
Paulca, I'd second good lighting.
FWIW, I've a ring light as well as from both sides (helps identifying IC's when hitting it with light at an angle IME). I use 5000K (12 o'clock/noon) lighting to be the best as it doesn't have a blueish shade to it. Nor is it on the yellowish side as is the case with warmer light, such as that from a halogen on the order of 2700K or so.
Yet another used precision shunt resistor, after prev. batch (
here), got tempted again
, cause this time its M4 version, with nickel plated solid brass rod terminals for the Kelvin sensing connections instead of finicky wires like prev ones. Got these just the fractions of the list price, a brand new one is >$200 a pop.
As with resistance at 0.01 Ohm with following specifications :
- Accuracy : 0.1% (B grade)
- Tempco : 50 ppm/K (at 0 up to 100 C)
- Rating : 50 Watt with heat sink / 20 Watt on free air
Shot with TO-220 chip as size reference.
BravoV, thanks for sharing these. I have a sweet spot for power electronics in general, with a special place in my heart for large passives: transformers/inductors, capacitors and power resistors.
BravoV, thanks for sharing these. I have a sweet spot for power electronics in general, with a special place in my heart for large passives: transformers/inductors, capacitors and power resistors.
If you like large transformers AND large capacitors, look
here, thats a 60 pound transformer.
Today I got 7 DVD box sets of 24, series 1 - 8 but missing currently series 7, thats coming real soon
BravoV, thanks for sharing these. I have a sweet spot for power electronics in general, with a special place in my heart for large passives: transformers/inductors, capacitors and power resistors.
My pleasure.
Maybe we should create an equivalent thread for this kind of thing as the T&M crowds "TEA" thread ?
I'm installing an IEC 320 power inlet connector in place of a formerly fixed AC mains cable on a piece of gear, and since my 30+ year old POS Rat Shack nibbler is nowhere to be found I decided to bite the bullet and buy some real nibblers. Brown Santa just dropped these two off, courtesy of Amazon:
-Pat
I still have an Adeltool nibbler that would be about 40 years old. Still works perfectly. It is exactly the same as the one you bought. As well as metal, they are fabulous at nibbling away at PCB material. Very clean cut with very little deformation.
I still have an Adeltool nibbler that would be about 40 years old. Still works perfectly. It is exactly the same as the one you bought. As well as metal, they are fabulous at nibbling away at PCB material. Very clean cut with very little deformation.
I don't doubt it - the one I'd used at my previous job looked old at the time, and that was 20 years ago now.
-Pat
Some random bits. Couple pairs of ceramic tweezers, toggle and push switches, USB lights (5-off, cute things really - touch sensitive
)