How do you hold the shark still while you mount the laser to it's head?
I had a Keysight U1253B multimeter with an OLED display that dimmed, so I bought another one to share the "R&D costs" of a replacement display.
We would appreciate a picture of the completed one please. :-)
"Today" assembled...
Appreciated!
Now it's break in time again ...
What's the electronic to drive these beauties?
TOOL: Ingersoll Rand IRC 429 Heavy-Duty Air Reciprocating Saw
For cutting holes in chassis, like a SawsAll but for fine work.
Comes with blades!
Use with 100# 50 gal air compressor, Very useful!
PROD: 32 lbs fine magnet wire for magnetics production
Jon
What's the electronic to drive these beauties?
Amplifier ASR Emitter I Exclusive, with normal and accu-supply
Player: Marantz SA 10
Nice combination together with the core.
I would stick to a jig saw for cutting most stuff, better control if you work out the fixturing. that one looks dangerous as hell, with no 'gun' style grip on it, and it does not look to have any guide rails/base, which is dodgy for a sawzall type tool. I see some of them have a 'sten gun' saw guide, which I also do not like but its better then nothing.
I totally hate those tools for anything but something massive like cutting a hole in a car (airplane?) body, always vibrates way too much and its hard to fixture, the jig saw base acts like a decent damper against vibration at least. auto nibbler not better?
I just sent some Paypal money to ALBERTO FERRARIS for his SATSAGEN program which allows you to use your Adalm Pluto as a spectrum analyzer. Bravo Alberto.
What's the electronic to drive these beauties?
Amplifier ASR Emitter I Exclusive, with normal and accu-supply
Player: Marantz SA 10
Nice combination together with the core.
50kg amp. Wow, CD, transformers and electrolytics. That's the classic style.
Here's vinyl and high res streaming at the source and smps driven amps.
Fnisri SG-004A
Was looking at the much cheaper SG-003, but the 004 has more features and, at the time, was on special offer. I previously acquired a Fnisri 2031 mini scope and thought it a bit rubbish (manual triggering is restricted to 10ms/div range or faster, weirdly) so was a bit apprehensive about the 004. I think it must be someone elses badged kit because, despite the lack of English-speaker's proofreading of the labels, it's actually pretty good! The user interface is, er, 'interesting' and needs a good perusal of the manual to get it to do anything, but it seems reasonably accurate on input and output.
One of the interesting things you can do is conversion between input and output. You can, for instance, set the input range of, say, 1V to 5V (4V span) and have that drive the output range of, say, 10ohm to 100ohm (90ohm span) and it will do it perfectly. Any of the input modes can be used to drive any of the output modes, so knocking up a quick test rig should involve less messing around than normal.
Edit: In case you're perhaps wondering what this signal generator actually does, anywhere else it would be called a process calibrator.
Coppercone,
"I would stick to a jig saw for cutting most stuff, better control if you work out the fixturing. that one looks dangerous as hell, with no 'gun' style grip on it, and it does not look to have any guide rails/base, which is dodgy for a sawzall type tool. I see some of them have a 'sten gun' saw guide, which I also do not like but its better then nothing.
I totally hate those tools for anything but something massive like cutting a hole in a car (airplane?) body, always vibrates way too much and its hard to fixture, the jig saw base acts like a decent damper against vibration at least. auto nibbler not better?"
I Had to cut a.75x1.05" rectangulaire in 0.032" AL sheet châssis
Have no jigsaw, would have been difficult
The Ingersoll is not a huge contractors demo Sawsall!
Its smaller,3" fine tooth métal blade.
Like a Dremel, but air operation, and 5..10k / min reciprocating
The strong cureved nose guard stabilizes the tool,against the work.
In a few minutes I had a perfect rectangular cutout f8r the IEC receptacle.
Harbour freight has $16..35 Chinese clones, Husky versions are $50..75.
The Ingersoll Rand is the best.
Enjoy
Jon
I have the blue one (it's little brother) but ordered the yellow one yesterday for exact the same reasoning
Just got my hands on some interesting toys. German company ELV has some nice system for breadboarding with ready-made component holders that have SMD parts soldered on the underside- and big pins to ensure good contact with the board. Also the supplied board seems to be of very good quality. And there is a platform for breadboards, where there are some external power connectors, pots and probing points for multimeter or scope. Is nice, because I can now use 12V lead batteries or similar stuff to power a circuit without the need to adapt too much stuff to the connectors.
Oh, and finally some spool of Felder SN100Ni+ (Fuji pat)in 1mm and some small probe (1 meter) of Felder SAC305 1mm, so I will do some shootout which solder I like best.
Fun fact: Ordered in germany with a company that gave me a very good price and acts mostly as a simple mailorder operation, whilst on the solder itself there was the sticker of a well-known company with its own online shop operation, lets call it big "C"- but they sell for nearly 13 Euros, I got my roll for 10...
The breadboard and cables they delivered actually are of decent quality, so I have high hopes that the stuff will last some time.
this PCB is part of a kit that you have to finally assemble yourself- because 1) I would save some money on this, b) I get to brush up my under-average soldering skills and c) the manufacturer is big on kits here in germany
I am happy to have this, so that setup of stuff gets a bit more orderly...
I got the "ultimate" breadboard from ELV, highly recommendable..
With LEDs, trimmer, switches, pushbuttons, even a small squarewavegen upt to 100khz is included.
I've never used breadboards. With soldered prototypes I can store
these away (properly labelled and documented of course) to
return to them even years later. Has happened often enough
in my case. However, each to his own.
Coppercone,
"I would stick to a jig saw for cutting most stuff, better control if you work out the fixturing. that one looks dangerous as hell, with no 'gun' style grip on it, and it does not look to have any
...... BIG Snippity.....
In a few minutes I had a perfect rectangular cutout f8r the IEC receptacle.
Harbour freight has $16..35 Chinese clones, Husky versions are $50..75.
The Ingersoll Rand is the best.
Enjoy
Jon
If you have the floor/shelf/bench space for them then the Scroll saw is a great option if you want to do anything NON STEEL so FRP/PCB, Aluminium, Brass, Copper, Timber or plastics etc they are great. Mine is stuck in a container but I would never not have one given the space and mine is heading out of storage soon with a revamp of my shop. Drill a small 3-4mm hole is plenty to fit the fret (range of TPI for different materials) blade and the cross pin on most of them for inside shapes. Set a fence for straight lines if needed for longer runs.
A new batch of all stainless orthodontic stuff.
Extremely useful as they provide unconventional functions in unusual situations.
Cutters have carbide inserts. Hemostat fits well in your hand when soldering strings of LED and holding small stuff andis easy to unlock. Hook plier is superb to work on small connectors like BNC or SMA.
Top one can bend stiff wires to small radius and rechape connectors.
Keeping on the dentistry theme I find my old ultrasonic descaler (not shown here, like used by your hygienist while cleaning your teeth but without the water!) very handy repairing smd pcbs to clean the components and damaged traces.
I've never used breadboards. With soldered prototypes I can store
these away (properly labelled and documented of course) to
return to them even years later.
Usually you don´t use breadboards for complete protoypes.
.
.
Arrived today:
PCBs from JLCPCB, as ever 5pcs minimum so I have four left...
It´s for the arduino-based curve tracer with touchscreen.
https://www.instructables.com/Transistor-Curve-Tracer/
Hook plier is superb to work on small connectors like BNC or SMA.
Does it have a name? I couldn't spot one when browsing likely collections, so something to search with would be cool.