The grinder is *great*. Very much a Bwahhaha feeling, to have a no-cord portable grinder. It's a bit quieter than typical mains powered grinders too. As if that might be important for some reason...
Makita obviously knows their market. Next thing you know they will include a spark suppressor. Strictly for safety of course.
Quite recently, a very large bush (forest) fire in Western Australia was caused by someone cutting metal with an angle grinder, so sparks can be a safety hazard.
There's one small plastic button cap missing. See https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/wtb-some-old-hp-equipment-plastic-buttons/
In pursuit of collecting the most archaic 'digital oscilloscopes' possible, this arrived today.
A HP 5180A 'waveform recorder.' (HP 1983 cat, pg 171)
20MHz sample rate, 16K sample memory. Requires an external XYZ display. (Which I have.)
It powers up but displays an error on startup. The manuals are still in the post, so no teardown and repair attempt for a while yet. Just a cover off, LEDs-test pic.
The CPU is an MC68A00P, and code is in three mask-ROMS.
One brief moment of horror - there's an empty card slot, A6, marked 'DAC' on the motherboard. But the card-retaining foam rubber strips show no sign of that card ever being present in the past so I'm guessing it's some optional feature.
There's one small plastic button cap missing. See https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/wtb-some-old-hp-equipment-plastic-buttons/
Here's the pdf version in case you can't wait for the post... https://xdevs.com/doc/HP_Agilent_Keysight/HP%205180A%20Service%20Manual%20Vol%201.pdf
McBryce.
Here's the pdf version in case you can't wait for the post... https://xdevs.com/doc/HP_Agilent_Keysight/HP%205180A%20Service%20Manual%20Vol%201.pdf
McBryce.
Thanks! I did manage to buy both Vol I & II of the service manual (2nd vol has the schematics) plus the op & programming manual. But they will take a while yet to arrive. That PDF is interesting reading. For one thing, looks like there is no A6 board. Also it gives me the part number of a diagnostics disk, and I have the computer it runs on. Now for the search...
No error message listing in that PDF though.
I'd forgotten about xdevs.com. Good to be reminded (and this time enter it propperly in my links list.)
Thanks for the suggestion, but I think it was a knee-jerk 'off course 3D printing solves everything.'
Thanks for the suggestion, but I think it was a knee-jerk 'off course 3D printing solves everything.'No, not really; it's just that without measurements, one cannot really tell if they have these or not, unless they know they are for HP equipment.
For similar reasons you outlined above, for completely new buttons, one would need to make aluminium molds for casting in ABS. Or rather, a mold with an inner "piston" with the inside features, that one could press semi-molten ABS into shape against the smooth mold in the outside shape of the button cap. Add a couple of ceramic heating elements and a thermocouple or an RTD to the aluminium mold, so it can be kept at 105°C - 150°C (above the glass transition for ABS).
Here's the full list of the available pdf's where I got it. The operation and programming manual is there too, plus so much more HP documentation: http://doc.xdevs.com/doc/HP_Agilent_Keysight/index.htm
A beautiful Apollo-era piece of scientific instrumentation!
A Lecroy (LRS) 161 dual discriminator. yep. It's another NIM module.. I may have a very rare strain of gear acquisition syndrome..
It's stamped 1969, and is tagged as from Brookhaven national lab, as well as US atomic energy commission! Markings are almost better than the functions!
Oh and it works flawlessly. My TOF-MS signal chain is complete!
I can't imagine why you felt it necessary to explain to me how injection molding works.
I'd have done that, if I thought there was any point. But there are multiple reasons why there isn't:
* These are quite common. Anyone having any old HP gear, needing more, AND having a 3d printer, will have some of these already. They can measure them themselves. So the remaining tedious details are superfluous reasons why I didn't.
* The outside is 2-slope pyramidal, with radius on each transition. So much fun to try and measure precisely, calipers or not.
* The internal shape and its dimensions are complex, and 'press-fit critical'. Good luck trying to measure and print it to good enough tolerance to actually work.
* The click-fit and resistance to popping off again, is due to 2 tiny little ridges on the inner faces, that key into grooves on the switch shaft. Molded in some very hard plastic. Good luck getting them right in 3D printed thermoplastic and not having them just flatten or shear off when pressing the button on.
* The color and surface texture matching is critical for old gear historical restoration. I do not believe that 3D printing using commercially available filament could possibly get even close. And so there is no point whatsoever. Better to have no button than some bodgy crap-looking immitation.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I think it was a knee-jerk 'off course 3D printing solves everything.'
Rear feet and some other parts where color and texture don't matter, sure. I did see the thread on making parts for restorations when searching for sources. But not suitable for these.
With all due respect (and I do respect you) you are wrong here. I've 3D printed the power buttons for certain hp equipment (see pic) and they fit just fine and look OK for my taste, but I don't feel the need to do more work to them. But if you want a near-exact copy then you must do more to the button! You can't expect it to be that way right off the 3D printer.
First, of course, you sand it with fine sandpaper. As you know, you cannot get the exact color filament off the shelf. So, you must prime it and color match it yourself with semi-gloss or gloss modelling paint. I know from years of model railroad modelling experience you can make it look almost exactly the same no matter what color you need! I don't want to start a big argument but you CAN make these parts look like near perfect matches.
And the equipment has historical interest.
Keith Rucker of VintageMachinery.org (ksrucker at Youtube) restores and maintains vintage machine and woodworking shop machines, like mills, drills, planers, and such.
He's gone to the trouble of even casting new parts using self-made patterns (at Windy Hill Foundry) from cast iron, and often makes "new old" replacements using durabar (cast iron type product) et cetera, and fixes cast iron parts by brazing (as would have been done a century ago).
an Anayak FV-2V
I know exactly how it came to be missing too. The factory I bought it from when they originally fork lift moved it, had removed the handwheel to allow the huge machine to sit close enough on the forks. They moved the machine to storage, where it sat for nearly a year. By the time I bought it, they had no institutional memory of removing the wheel, or where they'd put it. Arses.