Bought myself a quick and dirty cheapo scope for the bench to save me having to plug the laptop in to use the 'slightly' better DSO.
https://www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/e112A.php
I have one of theirs as well, its only a novelty really but it does work as long as your working on audio equipment its fine, and allows you to trace a signal through without quickly and easily, just don't expect too much from it mine has a very noisy floor. Much prefer to use a CRO but space and time don't always permit.
Bought myself a quick and dirty cheapo scope for the bench to save me having to plug the laptop in to use the 'slightly' better DSO.
https://www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/e112A.php
I have one of theirs as well, its only a novelty really but it does work as long as your working on audio equipment its fine, and allows you to trace a signal through without quickly and easily, just don't expect too much from it mine has a very noisy floor. Much prefer to use a CRO but space and time don't always permit.
I don't have high expectations of it. At the moment I'm not probing anything, as probing involves:
going upstairs, getting the laptop, unplugging it, bring it down to the lab, clearing bench space, plugging it in, wiring up the Owon DSO
So typically the chain of events is:
"I should probe that.... Ach sod that."
A couple of quick images from the Adonstar ADSM302. Had to JPG compress them to get the filessize down..
A couple of quick images from the Adonstar ADSM302. Had to JPG compress them to get the filessize down..
Looks like your electronics could use a shave.
A couple of quick images from the Adonstar ADSM302. Had to JPG compress them to get the filessize down..
Looks like your electronics could use a shave.
Just a piece of junk that was left lying around on my desk for weeks
Ah. Just realised I can get even lower magnification/wider field by moving the camera upwards in its bracket, that gives me about 9" clearance under the lens.
A couple of quick images from the Adonstar ADSM302. Had to JPG compress them to get the filessize down..
Looks really good. Of course, not as crisp as my Tagarno, but the difference is not big, and your whole ADSM302 is cheaper than just my knob box
A couple of quick images from the Adonstar ADSM302. Had to JPG compress them to get the filessize down..
Looks really good. Of course, not as crisp as my Tagarno, but the difference is not big, and your whole ADSM302 is cheaper than just my knob box
Those earlier images were just frame grabs off the video, a photo is actually 12MP and more detailed. You can compare the two below (The photo is second image, although I had to reduce it to 30% of original size to post so perhaps not a fair comparison).
Maybe not as sharp but it would be tough for me to justify paying more! £220 for the lot in my case
Plenty of room to work underneath the camera as you can see..
@chrisLX200: can you estimate the latency on the integral LCD and HDMI out? Not interested in usb to display latency.
I have the 201 and believe it contains the same image sensor and I can get to a sharper focus than your pic. I think you could have focused it better.
Ah you just posted with an explanation about the image quality, never mind
@chrisLX200: can you estimate the latency on the integral LCD and HDMI out? Not interested in usb to display latency.
[...]
I have yet to try the HDMI connection on the desk PC, it would be worthwhile to use it if only because of the increased resolution available via HDMI but sadly my workshop PC monitor doesn't have an HDMI input. I've got a [standard] HDMI > DVI adapter cable but of course the Adonstar uses mini HDMI connector
Also, I tried a normal polariser and also circular polariser filter - made no difference at all. That came as a surprise TBH, I would have expected some of the reflections to be reduced? Of course I tried rotating the filters whilst watching!
HP 16500A to get some cables
Ah. Just realised I can get even lower magnification/wider field by moving the camera upwards in its bracket, that gives me about 9" clearance under the lens.
That's impressive, a massive improvement on my Andonstar scope, it could only manage at best 3.5", but my new one can do 6" which is enough to get and solder with ease once I've mastered the art of soldering etc while looking at the monitor. Yours has a far greater field of view I post a of picture of mine at 6" working height which is still a giant leap forwards for me, not a match for yours though but then it did only cost me £46 so I can't complain, it will be a great aid to me when working with SMD stuff. Strange though, still photos seem to loose the aspect ratio, on screen as a live feed its perfect.
Specmaster,
Various high power LEDs. Nothing in a small ring configuration though. You're welcome to any of them.
@chrisLX200: can you estimate the latency on the integral LCD and HDMI out? Not interested in usb to display latency.
[...]
I have yet to try the HDMI connection on the desk PC
How about latency via built-in screen? If it's reasonable for soldering, the lack of stereo vision might be OK, especially considering the price.
Ebay Golden Ticket!
Nice , you better open up those internal boxes now.
Nice Toy @CalMachine
It had been nearly 2 days since I brought something so I brought a bit of Crap on Ebay
A Power Supply that requires Interlock Switches and Counters will be fun to play with. I did really buy it for the nice modular case to mount so other stuff in but should be fun to pull down and get a few cool parts from. $60 AUD delivered btw.
@chrisLX200: can you estimate the latency on the integral LCD and HDMI out? Not interested in usb to display latency.
[...]
I have yet to try the HDMI connection on the desk PC
How about latency via built-in screen? If it's reasonable for soldering, the lack of stereo vision might be OK, especially considering the price.
Latency is very usable either way - you're getting 30fps which is not going to win prizes (fast movement will cause tearing) but for normal work it's fine. I just had to repair daughter's fine gold chain so I used this microscope, worked perfectly for this fiddly job.
Anyway, it will go into my workshop today so when I have it connected up I'll make some vids..
Ah. Just realised I can get even lower magnification/wider field by moving the camera upwards in its bracket, that gives me about 9" clearance under the lens.
That's impressive, a massive improvement on my Andonstar scope, it could only manage at best 3.5", but my new one can do 6" which is enough to get and solder with ease once I've mastered the art of soldering etc while looking at the monitor. Yours has a far greater field of view I post a of picture of mine at 6" working height which is still a giant leap forwards for me, not a match for yours though but then it did only cost me £46 so I can't complain, it will be a great aid to me when working with SMD stuff. Strange though, still photos seem to loose the aspect ratio, on screen as a live feed its perfect.
I was going to buy the same model as yours, last minute decision after watching a YouTube vid made me change my mind
Your's will certainly do the job though. Software for mine needs a lot of work - it's version 1.0
You can easily change aspect ratio of saved images but maybe there's a setting somewhere (ini file?) you can change.
Ah. Just realised I can get even lower magnification/wider field by moving the camera upwards in its bracket, that gives me about 9" clearance under the lens.
That's impressive, a massive improvement on my Andonstar scope, it could only manage at best 3.5", but my new one can do 6" which is enough to get and solder with ease once I've mastered the art of soldering etc while looking at the monitor. Yours has a far greater field of view I post a of picture of mine at 6" working height which is still a giant leap forwards for me, not a match for yours though but then it did only cost me £46 so I can't complain, it will be a great aid to me when working with SMD stuff. Strange though, still photos seem to loose the aspect ratio, on screen as a live feed its perfect.
I was going to buy the same model as yours, last minute decision after watching a YouTube vid made me change my mind Your's will certainly do the job though. Software for mine needs a lot of work - it's version 1.0 You can easily change aspect ratio of saved images but maybe there's a setting somewhere (ini file?) you can change.
I can't change the aspect ration, I'm afraid thats something that I think I'm stuck with as the device didn't come with any software, its all programmed into the unit. If you use on its own monitor and press the snapshot button, you can see the distortion on playback. If I run the microscope on the PC using the software that came with my Andonstar A1 and use the Ctrl L button sequence the aspect is correct, here is a couple of shots of the same PCB one using the Andonstar software (small untouched photo) and using the microscope as a standalone item and saved to SD card, large photo also untouched. If only the PC captured image was as large the one saved to SD card but I suspect has everything to do with the fact that the A1 microscope only has 2MP image file while the new microscope is supposed to be 3.6MP.
Latency is very usable either way - you're getting 30fps which is not going to win prizes (fast movement will cause tearing)
Frame rate has nothing to do with tearing. Tearing is caused by not redrawing the framebuffer in sync with the v-sync pulse and/or not using double buffering and attempting to draw the active frame direct while it's being output.
Hi,
Not to be negative, is it me or you are spending a hell of a lot of money on what a second hand Canon EOS 600D ($250 on eBay) and a $25 software can do?
Not to be negative, is it me or you are spending a hell of a lot of money on what a second hand Canon EOS 600D ($250 on eBay) and a $25 software can do?
I use my Tagarno for soldering, too. It is so much less hurting my back to look at the monitor than leaned over my old stereo microscope. Was a bit unusual at first to look at the monitor, but now I can do it faster than with my old microscope, just soldered another prototype of my Bloxorz cartridge. I guess 60 Hz, no visible lag and no tearing helps.