HP 3326 dual oscillator - 13MHz can be either different phase or frequency.
Are you sure it's not a kit? It immediately reminded me of:
Now that is a trip down memory lane!
Having recently chnaged over to a modern flat screen TV, I found out the sound to be poor compared to my old CRT TV.
So I just bought an old surround amp (Yamaha DSP-AX630SE)
That piece of wood sitting on top of your amp is going to cook it in very short order. I have my Yamaha amp sitting on an open shelf with excellent ventilation and it still gets very very warm.
Having recently chnaged over to a modern flat screen TV, I found out the sound to be poor compared to my old CRT TV.
So I just bought an old surround amp (Yamaha DSP-AX630SE)
I stopped using the built-in TV sound when I started using them as computer monitors instead of TVs.
Older CRT TVs did seem to sound better than newer flat screen types though.
Having recently chnaged over to a modern flat screen TV, I found out the sound to be poor compared to my old CRT TV.
So I just bought an old surround amp (Yamaha DSP-AX630SE)
I stopped using the built-in TV sound when I started using them as computer monitors instead of TVs.
Older CRT TVs did seem to sound better than newer flat screen types though.
Of course, in older CRT tvs they had quite a bit of room, so they could fit proper speakers. Modern TVs, read as flat screen TVs, are not only much smaller but much flatter so the speakers they fit in there have to be smaller leading to a degradation in sound quality. That degradation in sound quality also has to do somewhat with acoustics of the panel and the general quality of the TVs.
I have taken apart a Samsung flat screen TV for fun and inside were what looked like cheap speakers, looks can be deceiving though when it comes to audio never trust how something looks.
HP 3326 dual oscillator - 13MHz can be either different phase or frequency.
Are you sure it's not a kit? It immediately reminded me of:
Hi,
I was given that kit, I believe that it was the EE20, probably around 1968. I wonder how many people on the forum were influenced by these kits. I seem to remember two kits, a base kit and an expansion kit.
I also had a Philips radio kit. This kit didn't use the springs, it had a grid of nuts an bolts molded into the bottom of the case.
Regards,
Jay_Diddy_B
An E2675A differential browser for my 1134A 7 GHz probe. And it came with all 20 damped resistor probe tips - they are very small and very sharp.
That piece of wood sitting on top of your amp is going to cook it in very short order. I have my Yamaha amp sitting on an open shelf with excellent ventilation and it still gets very very warm.
It looks like it's two strips of wood at the front and back feet, rather than a full panel covering all the holes, so he should be ok.
McBryce.
HP 3326 dual oscillator - 13MHz can be either different phase or frequency. A mere lightweight at 26kg of vintage iron, well mostly aluminium. Arrived from USA - one cracked foot. Works fine - bit of age softened plastic inside.
I am also a bit of a LED display fan.(The 'cool' display tech of my youth).
What a beauty!
It must have cost a bit to get it shipped from the US.
It does indeed reminds of those kits.
My first electronic kit was this one, when I was something like 8
Only took me a couple of weeks to outgrow it.
A 7S12 in a rather unusual configuration: S-2 Sampling head and S-52 pulse generator head.
Was sold as untested, didn't work and caused the scope mainframes supply to shut down. Simple fix: replace failed (shorted) cap.
DC Offset pot appears to not work, not yet investigated further. Otherwise fine.
Now I've got another problem: I don't have a GR-874 to something useful adaptor.
You know that feeling, then your soldering iron dies on you in the middle of a project? Bummer, mine did...
See below for a picture of my new soldering station and
click here for a description.
Awesome work FrankBuss - I'm feeling nearly motivated enough now to try and connect to my 8924C via GPIB!
Also, since GPIB is not an open standard, no one can implement it without internal document. Prologix one has only limited implementation and is not yet bug free, and that's the known best unauthorized GPIB implementation.
GPIB is a standard, see
here. Of course, it costs like EUR 600 to buy the part 1 and part 2 standard documents from the IEC webstore, if you can't find them somewhere on the internet for free, but hardly a problem, if you plan to develop and sell a high cost device.
There are also cheap projects based on the Arduino for a GPIB adapter:
http://www.rudiswiki.de/wiki/GPIBtoUSB_Nano3Of course, impossible to use it up to 8 Mbytes/s and maybe it lacks a lot of the standard, but might be sufficient to send some commands and read a voltage from a multimeter with low update rate. I would have bought this, because I don't need fast speed, but I need it for projects I plan to sell and for this I need just something that works and is proven. Don't want to waste time thinking about if the Arduino script is wrong or the voltage of my circuit is wrong
some ebay stuff and an esr kit, and a $1 caliper to throw around.
Only $5 including FedEx shipping. Looks like it actually came from Digikey (Thief River Falls). If I had paid for the shipping, I would probably be filing a claim against FedEx, the worst shipping company I have ever seen.
I knew it was coming and checked tracking late in the day. It showed it had been delivered, but I was home all day and knew it hadn't. I finally found it at the apartment office. Apparently since it was "no signature required" the driver just left it there instead of going another 500 feet and up a flight of steps to actually deliver it to my door.
Not a purchase, but I ran off on a rescue mission last night to save an old broken synthesiser...
Going to get it from the back of the station wagon in the cold light of morning, I wonder if I've made a terrible mistake. This thing is ridiculously huge. Quite possibly occupies as much volume as every other keyboard I own, combined.
And yes, that's an 88 note full size hammer action keyboard looking lost inside the outline of this complete monster.
Meh, not exactly electronics related, but I do need to print out a datasheet now and then, sometimes I like to scribble on paper.
Laser can be on standby for months and just spool up without a complex dance of death and dry or clogged cartridges...
Oh, and you can download "Basic" drivers from HP that don't enable all the web shenanigans.
Not a purchase, but I ran off on a rescue mission last night to save an old broken synthesiser...
Going to get it from the back of the station wagon in the cold light of morning, I wonder if I've made a terrible mistake. This thing is ridiculously huge. Quite possibly occupies as much volume as every other keyboard I own, combined.
Even older than my PC88MX
A MPT-2500 Peltier controller. Yes you will get a teardown.
I need to control my fridge some way.
My UniT 139Cs were feeling a bit lonely so I got a FLUKE 17B+ to keep them some company.
I have not used it much so far, but I like it. Although I get a strange feeling that the 101 is of higher quality. Probably because of the smoother knob action.
Perhaps a teardown is in order to clear any suspicions of shenanigans
As part of my auction score, I got a 8405A Vector Voltmeter - This is a classic old piece of kit that was the progenitor of the modern Vector Network Analyzer.
You can read about it in the
May 1966 HP Journal.
I did a video of a partial repair and use fo the unit as well
While you're there check out the other videos and let me know what you like or what I got wrong.
TonyG
Today I bought an old Sony Video 8 handycam for 10€. Why? just because I had a crave to take apart something.
Always amazed at the tech density in these devices, and still hours of fun ahead
Glad Im still like a child
Growing up is fortunately entirely optional..
Even older than my PC88MX
A fair bit older by the looks of it!
PC88MX seems to have the same design style as the K2000, so that's early to mid 90s I guess?