Hi
First of all want to apologize for the big mistake on the procedure taken to measure batteries. So n00bian from my part
Willing to do another test to check the cut-off voltage of the uni-t 9V using proper techniques to see if it is unpar with the uni-t meters that you have and check if any thing weird on 204A is going on between batteries or might doing something wrong.
Edit
Don't have yet a adjustable power supply so going to relly on batteries...
This way... meter powers down, open the case, take out the battery and measure voltage with another meter...Should i measure when it is still on the meter even if is supposelly powered off? I can re-run this with the 204A because it can be turned to always on...and draws 1mA in Vac mode.
Broadly speaking, you need to know that NiMH fully drained cells "rebound" when you take the load off them. For example, a completely drained NiMH cell may have an open circuit voltage of ~1.2 V. You can put a small load on it and the voltage will drop down to 0.5 V or lower. Take the load off the cell and the voltage will rapidly rise up towards 1.2 V again. The best way to see this happening is to have the cell attached to the voltmeter when you do this experiment.
Thanks again and i've yet tested with another battery operated device, which gave similar result ( less voltage drop) as you mentioned:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/msg2102320/#msg2102320
Alkaline cells don't behave the same way. They have a very small rebound or recovery, but it is much less pronounced.
Just a reminder:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/msg2102320/#msg2102320...tested with 2x AA NIMH cells with chrismas lights untill they turned off, measure voltage without removing them got 1.187V / 1.169V . When taken out they went right to 1.2V and rising...
dooohnhh
I assume you own all of them that use 9V batteries and tested them to make a statement like that. If you watched that short video, you would have seen how low my UT61E ran. rsjsouza also tested their UT61E and posted the results. I also posted data for the UT90.
Well that is in the description of the product sheet or specifications of the uni-t. So for example on uni-t 61E < = 7.5 V, the 7.5V would be a worst case scenario?
Product Specification for uni-t 61E as an example:
http://www.uni-trend.com/productsdetail_1971_1105_1105.html
All my multimeter reviews (more than 80) contains current measurement for the meters and estimated runtime until they report empty battery. The estimated runtime is based on discharge curves at different currents.
Fluke 27/FM for the win. Thanks RSJ for the list. Interesting that a 20+ year old meter is able to lead the pack.
Hi.
I've catch the uni-t 204A clamp meter powered off and read the voltage of the NIMH battery inside the meter... 2.25V.... It must be draining the battery even shutted off probably...
Malagas, depending on the NiMH battery it may have a pretty high self discharge. Otherwise, I would inspect the quiescent current of your clamp - it shouldn't be difficult with a fresh charge and the multimeter you have in uA/mA mode.
Thanks for the advice rsjsouza.
Plan to do a setup to measure also the current consumption in all modes to check what does get more energy from the battery using aligator clips to a multimeter in mA / uA . Also check if the current setups doesn't add up to the measure, eg bad aligator clips, bad leads.
That is cool, Malagas. This is similar to the data I got from the meters I tested and shown in the attached photograph.
I plan to do a test on the quiescent current on standby, but that takes quite a long time waiting for the meters to power off automatically.
Hi here is my first tryout to measure current in a DMM in order to check its power drain using a almost fresh NIMH cell.. a newbie one...
Conditions....:
. DMM: Uni-t 204A clamp meter.
- Cell: 9V NIMH 220mAh
- Leads: Using old aligator leads plugged to terminais ( plan to user newer ones or dummy cell)
- Current Measurement: Multimeter Unit-50b in 20 mA scale in series with battery + standard test leads + old aligator clips
- Voltage Measurement ( Battery and DMMterminais) : Uni-t 120C
Measurements
- Check attachments .. in portuguese... sorry
- Battery Voltage measurement on battery and contacts was taken on the 40A DC
Further tests involves switching aligators clips,test leads, dummy cells. Measurement multimeters for better accuracy on the results.
If there is anything missing which is.. quote :
Starting to work on a new video but the German's are getting me down. But if you like seeing old meters, stay tuned..
Starting to work on a new video but the German's are getting me down. But if you like seeing old meters, stay tuned..
Oh, no! What did Gossen do this time?!? Did they set radiowave or magnetic weapons around your house to make all meters go wild?
Made some progress today and saw something that I have never seen before, even with all the low end meters I have looked at. Like many of my videos, I got a little sidetracked as well.
Testing continues on the pocket meter that True claims they had damaged some high number of. I don't think they ever did post again after making that first video. Someone also asked me about running an experiment which I have decided to take on for fun. Bouncing between the three videos as I have time. Combined with work and other interests, I haven't been spending much time with the meters. So be patient and perhaps in a couple of weeks you can see a brand I havn't yet looked at.
a real one - looks similar
Notice the complex markings on this one. Real or counterfeit? We need our fuse expert Fungus to weigh in.
I've written SIBA before about possible counterfeit fuses and they are pretty much like dealing with Gossen or a vacuum, your pick.
a real one - looks similar
Quality of the printed letters is much better on that one.
No comment on the third one I posted?
I am willing to take these apart and take any measurements you would care to see if you have original SIBAs that we could compare them with.
No comment on the third one I posted?
I'm not sure about that one. On the one hand I don't see why SIBA would have two types of markings but on the other I know that when you make a comment like that it's a trap.
There's a distinct lack of pictures of fuses on SIBA's web site to compare anything with.
i dont think breaking them will tell you much, even if they are fake they can still be sand-filled.
i know there was a vid by "voltlog" testing meter fuses from another company that used test currents and timed the speed it tripped.
and