Just bought some power supplies just to be able to calibrate my HP 6060B and 6063B electronic loads.
1x HP 6033A 20V/200W
1x 5V/80A*
1x 60/6,6A*
1x 24V/360W*
* - cheap chinesium switching power supply
Still missing a regulated supply with 240V/2A..
Yesterday, my Wired Fight Pad Pro that I bought on Amazon was delivered. Now I have three game controllers. During the next 7 days of lockdown, Me, my wife, and my son can kill time by playing games together!
Ultra high vacuum hoard off of Ebay!
I especially dig the tiny KF40 gate valve and the viewport. The glass is UV transparent so it's either quartz or sapphire!
Ultra high vacuum hoard off of Ebay!
Nice!
What are you planning to do with this?
I also just bought many good precision vacuum parts of ebay. Sometimes we can get lucky.
Ultra high vacuum hoard off of Ebay!
Nice!
What are you planning to do with this?
I also just bought many good precision vacuum parts of ebay. Sometimes we can get lucky.
Thanks!
Only disappointment is that the bolt-flange lid is NOT ISO100 - it's off by 8 mm
I have several projects on the table, including a small linear or electrostatic accelerator, but the one I'm working on right now is a Time-of-flight mass spectrometer using an electron multiplier as both ion source and detector!
Raw material buy up. Woolen Felt, Cast Acrylic sheets and just for kicks some Leather. There is Electronics use in mind for all three.
@ChristofferB
Note that depending on the voltages you plan to use the viewport could let a lot of soft x-rays out.
I use an x-ray blocking glass on top of my viewport unless it is used with a camera with
a shield between it and the operator.
Hope you will post the results on eevblog too!
Cheers and have fun.
@ChristofferB
Note that depending on the voltages you plan to use the viewport could let a lot of soft x-rays out.
I use an x-ray blocking glass on top of my viewport unless it is used with a camera with
a shield between it and the operator.
Hope you will post the results on eevblog too!
Cheers and have fun.
A small CCD camera and a mounting flange is definitely on the watchlist! A piece of leaded acrylic would also be neat.
In the first iteration, an UV light source is mounted on the viewport to provide a steady flux of photoelectrons as MS ion source. I'll for sure make a thread about it when I get a bit further.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O5L0NO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1This was recommended here for an inexpensive Panavise that I purchased. My opinion is that the recommendation is a very good one. It makes it much easier to rapidly open and close the jaws as well as fine positioning. Yes, why didn't they include it?!
Here it is in use. BTW: in that pic I am getting ready to pour hot glue into a mold to facilitate converting a screw terminal to breadboard use. That was another "tip" from this board, and that too works.
Finally got myself a Segger JTrace after years of drooling
...it followed me home? That and these cards? 34903A + 34906A + 34901A?
...
...
...
Yes, I have a problem.
Micsig DP10013 high voltage differential probe. I can now fulfill my noob dreams: looking at the mains on my scope.
Really, I want to look at the power section in a vacuum tube guitar amplifier that starts off as 120VAC and is transformed to 200VAC. I want to see the rectification and the smoothing and what happens if I swap out this for that. Now I can. This makes me happy.
Here's the mains at my lab bench:
EDIT:
(replying to Cubdriver in an edit so as not to take the thread too far off course) Yes, it's ugly. It's my understanding that this is pretty normal. I imagine that this knowledge would really infuriate the audiophools with expensive pure silver IEC cables.
Congrats on your new differential probe - very handy thing to have in your arsenal. But damn, that is one ugly sine wave!!
(I should probably keep my big mouth shut, as I've never looked at mine and it may well be worse)
-Pat
Well, not exactly "buy" but a guy at work noticed a 3D printer in the trash at the university dorms, and thought I might want parts from it. I tried it out and couldn't see anything wrong. I tried a test print that tried to work, but it was loaded with ABS but the print was set for PLA. So, today I downloaded cura, saw it didn't have a post for this printer (Stanley Model 1) and found a download for the config for the printer. Then I downloaded a random object from Thingiverse and it worked remarkably well!
So far, total cost about 3 hours of my time.
Jon
My Panavise Jr's thumb screw somehow got out of alignment and I am going to have to disssemble it or something.
It definitely could use a bigger knob. Luckily I have several other work holders. I mostly use my panavise jr for holding small antennas these days.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O5L0NO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This was recommended here for an inexpensive Panavise that I purchased. My opinion is that the recommendation is a very good one. It makes it much easier to rapidly open and close the jaws as well as fine positioning. Yes, why didn't they include it?!
Here it is in use. BTW: in that pic I am getting ready to pour hot glue into a mold to facilitate converting a screw terminal to breadboard use. That was another "tip" from this board, and that too works.
Well, not exactly "buy" but a guy at work noticed a 3D printer in the trash at the university dorms, and thought I might want parts from it. I tried it out and couldn't see anything wrong. I tried a test print that tried to work, but it was loaded with ABS but the print was set for PLA. So, today I downloaded cura, saw it didn't have a post for this printer (Stanley Model 1) and found a download for the config for the printer. Then I downloaded a random object from Thingiverse and it worked remarkably well!
So far, total cost about 3 hours of my time.
Jon
Deserved winner of todays Jammy Git award !
Some Raspberry Pi Picos and RP2040 chips.
Not TE related but my old Central Pneumatic 1/2" impact driver that belonged to my deceased father in law, gave up the ghost. So I bought an Earthquake 1/2 in. Ultra Compact Xtreme Torque Stubby Air Impact Wrench. Really like the compact design and the light weight. Plenty of power for what I use it for.
I love my pneumatic impact driver but once you buy a battery-powered rattle-gun you will never look back.
Speaking of automotive tools...
Based off of the recommendation below, and my own good experiences with Astro Pneumatic tools for automotive repair, I bought the
Astro Pneumatic Tool 9477 7-Piece Professional Quick Interchangeable Ratchet Crimping Tool Set. It was about USD70 delivered. I would say that it works pretty well (meaning the crimps are not mangled to hell) for hobby use. I like that it includes a bunch of dies for (relatively) cheap, and the dies are indeed very easy to swap out.
I use the astro one and a real crimper is one of the best purchases I have made.
http://www.amazon.com/Astro-9477-Professional-Interchangeable-Tool/dp/B0045CUMLQ
the dies are simple to change, just pull it out and push another in and the case is rugged and holds things in.
The only thing i'd like is a cheat sheet on the case that shows which terminal types go with which dies... perhaps i can make one up..
The picture is of the one that I own.
EDIT:
The
ABN Quick-Change Ratchet Crimper Pliers & Die 6-Piece Crimping Tool Kit – Insulated, D-Sub, Barrel, & More Crimp Set appears (from pictures) to be identical, but it's only USD47 vs USD64 for the Astro Pneumatic version.
Liquid Electrical Tape
but not for that purpose. For reasons unbknown in Oz we seem not to be able to get Liquid Tool Dips like Plastidip, Loctite etc. (we can get spray cans of Plastidip but the price is nuts). So I am going to give this a go, ordered Black and Clear and I have some powdered dies for a bit of a play with colour on the clear.
Anyone used it for this purpose or got any Oz available liquids?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002668971925.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.7333469bAS8Ffh
Not TE related but my old Central Pneumatic 1/2" impact driver that belonged to my deceased father in law, gave up the ghost. So I bought an Earthquake 1/2 in. Ultra Compact Xtreme Torque Stubby Air Impact Wrench. Really like the compact design and the light weight. Plenty of power for what I use it for.
Have you tried it on your "big brass nuts" yet?
McBryce.
Liquid Electrical Tape but not for that purpose. For reasons unbknown in Oz we seem not to be able to get Liquid Tool Dips like Plastidip, Loctite etc. (we can get spray cans of Plastidip but the price is nuts). So I am going to give this a go, ordered Black and Clear and I have some powdered dies for a bit of a play with colour on the clear.
Anyone used it for this purpose or got any Oz available liquids?
Possibly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34iHbWgAGWQBut it seems more for outdoor/tough usage.
Liquid Electrical Tape but not for that purpose. For reasons unbknown in Oz we seem not to be able to get Liquid Tool Dips like Plastidip, Loctite etc. (we can get spray cans of Plastidip but the price is nuts). So I am going to give this a go, ordered Black and Clear and I have some powdered dies for a bit of a play with colour on the clear.
Anyone used it for this purpose or got any Oz available liquids?
No, got a bottle to use to repair rubber equipment cords that are not replaceable, and where the rubber was slightly scuffed from wear. Buying a new $5k motor because you need a new cable is not exactly easy, but the manufacturer pots the entire winding assembly in hard resin during manufacture. Kind of have to with a 2HP vibrator, but having to buy the whole motor is hard. So just used to repair the scuffs, and then also used a bit more for doing cable joints on electric fences, as this makes a good insulation that lasts. the biggest user is the boating industry, where pretty much every yacht owner will have a can or three around to make connections water tight in the engine bay, so they can have it last more than 3 months in the ocean.
Yep Marine wiring sucks. I used to have a share in a Boat and I was the designated fixer, generally after one of the others had played
The boot liner stuff looks good for other purposes maybe too.
Todays random arrival is for powering my TS100 as an option. Generally I use my R/C packs and a DC-DC convertor but there is times I will have the Makita gear and no R/C packs on site. Evilbayplus got me some more $ off it but decent plastic and a firm snap lock
eBay auction: #303975839184 Wire is a bit stiff so I will likely swap it out. Adapter also works on some Bosch packs too.
Scored a 8753ES with Opt 006, seller confirmed the display is dead. Hooked up a VGA monitor and it works with self test passed. Open up found the LCD CCFL inverter fuse open circuit. Replaced the fuse and the display work fine but very dim. Got a replacement display from Taobao for USD $80 and it is now sharp and clear.