If those batteries were 12v's, I'm sure I could find a use for them. Those 6v's aren't a "starting" type of battery either, they are "deep-cycle" only.
I picked up three of his APC's. He said that they worked but the batteries are flat. I peeked inside of the one to the left (Smart UPS 900) and it has IC's dated from the early 1990's in it. They are all in great condition. The black one is a Back-UPS XS 1500 and still has the plastic wrapper over the bezel:
Since I have 4 POE security cameras at home, would any of these UPS's keep the DVR and cameras going for very long?
A TI Travelmate 4000E 486DX2/50 was given to me, limping but at least POSTing.
Will have to do a thorough cap and battery rework before putting it to action...
https://youtu.be/Fqiv2_D1P8M
If those batteries were 12v's, I'm sure I could find a use for them.
12V = 6*2V, 6V = 3*2V, therefore, 12V = 2*6V.
2 weeks ago i scored a Keithley 2000 in good condition , a Toellner 8751 PSU in perfect condition and a R&S NGPV 40/3 in very nice condition at a fleamarket - all 3 together 450€ .
The K2000 has no fails on the internal tests , no blown caps or earlier leakage signs , the front/rear switch is fine , FW A19 and is spot on except the ohms ranges - they are all reading 0.54% high - i think the current source needs a little attention . The Toellner PSU works 100% and the R&S unit seems to work fine too , but i have yet to check the exact numbers . . .
I also got me a new Siglent SDM3065X from the Batronix Advent calender sale on the 17th just for fun
You went to the Dortmunder Afumesse?
Did you sell me something ?
The Toellner 8751 maybe . . . . that one was 100% ok - just needed a little calibration on both meters
I was told to take this McIntosh with me too. It's a C28 Preamplifier. It has a face-plate which suffers from delamination on the backside that's fairly common, excellent shape otherwise. I think a new face-plate hovers around $250. Not sure if I'll get to this project. It visited the performance clinics in '78, '80. and 1982:
The power supply is a QA300. I was not even able to find any article on it on Google. That's odd. I swear I have one.
(I can take a picture of it if anyone's curious.)
Please do the pictures! You have a living piece of history! Okay, jokes aside, I'm a sucker for cute and obscure equipment.
This one. The tip shows a linear movement of approx. 1.8mm in total. With it, a core is moved in a coil with center contact. I think that should be part of an AC-bridge. Does anyone have some lock-in-amplifier like code for an arduino or similar that can help me to determine the position of that core?
This one. The tip shows a linear movement of approx. 1.8mm in total. With it, a core is moved in a coil with center contact. I think that should be part of an AC-bridge. Does anyone have some lock-in-amplifier like code for an arduino or similar that can help me to determine the position of that core?
Cool Toy
This link shows a typical layout with an oscillator as part of it. The block diagram might get you started too.
https://www.mitutoyo.com/webfoo/wp-content/uploads/Mu-Checker_2215-1.pdfThere is some detailed schematics for other brands out there but I haven't come across any for Mitutoyo.
Good luck with your Google Foo.
Cool Toy
This link shows a typical layout with an oscillator as part of it. The block diagram might get you started too. https://www.mitutoyo.com/webfoo/wp-content/uploads/Mu-Checker_2215-1.pdf
There is some detailed schematics for other brands out there but I haven't come across any for Mitutoyo.
Good luck with your Google Foo.
Thank you for the pdf and the good wishes! So far, my guessing was not bad. If you have a further links for detailed schematics at hand and would share them, I would be happy to have a look. I am wondering, if it is worth to open a thread and show what my oscilloscope will see at the output of the bridge or if this is of minor interest to others.
Thank you for the pdf and the good wishes! So far, my guessing was not bad. If you have a further links for detailed schematics at hand and would share them, I would be happy to have a look. I am wondering, if it is worth to open a thread and show what my oscilloscope will see at the output of the bridge or if this is of minor interest to others.
You could try dropping Robin Renzetti (Member Robrenz) a PM he has done as much playing with the
Starrett Brown and Sharpe amplifier that I can think off and might have some clues on the Mitutoyo?
Several other videos on his YouTube using the Amplifier so have a look around there as well.
A small spool of 0.5mm tinned copper wire.
i swear that stuff is trash, I rather just strip wire. Always ends up oxidized and hard to solder. Maybe its good for production work but no way I would pay for that
I come across so many rolls of bare wire that were too corroded to use. it just causes problems and people asking 'why wont the soldering iron work??"
Razer Basilisk V3 X Hyperspeed gaming mouse for my son.
The power consumption of this mouse is a bit too high. It just killed a brand new Energizer alkaline battery in 20 days.
i swear that stuff is trash, I rather just strip wire. Always ends up oxidized and hard to solder. Maybe its good for production work but no way I would pay for that
I come across so many rolls of bare wire that were too corroded to use. it just causes problems and people asking 'why wont the soldering iron work??"
I've been getting bare copper wire from CAT6 cables for the past few years and now I'm tired of the stripping process. I used tinned copper wire like this in the 20th century and the experience didn't seem that bad, maybe it wasn't stored long enough.
I'll report back once I find out it doesn't work well.
i swear that stuff is trash, I rather just strip wire. Always ends up oxidized and hard to solder. Maybe its good for production work but no way I would pay for that
I come across so many rolls of bare wire that were too corroded to use. it just causes problems and people asking 'why wont the soldering iron work??"
I've been getting bare copper wire from CAT6 cables for the past few years and now I'm tired of the stripping process. I used tinned copper wire like this in the 20th century and the experience didn't seem that bad, maybe it wasn't stored long enough.
I'll report back once I find out it doesn't work well.
I think they have weird TCW in other countries!
Public service announcement
Time to be prepared now Christmas is done.
Only Three shopping months until Easter
Back to getting freight and customs brokerage quotes for a 1x1x1.3m 500kg crate
i swear that stuff is trash, I rather just strip wire. Always ends up oxidized and hard to solder. Maybe its good for production work but no way I would pay for that
I come across so many rolls of bare wire that were too corroded to use. it just causes problems and people asking 'why wont the soldering iron work??"
I've been getting bare copper wire from CAT6 cables for the past few years and now I'm tired of the stripping process. I used tinned copper wire like this in the 20th century and the experience didn't seem that bad, maybe it wasn't stored long enough.
I'll report back once I find out it doesn't work well.
you usually come across a roll thats corroded, 90% intact and then when you wanna replace it for 100$ its like no metal does not go bad.
I don't even wanna buy it commercially for a lab, for the sake of the future. Only in a factory.
honestly, store it in a container with some dessicant. Better yet, wind a small spool and store the rest with oxygen absorbers and dessicant in a vacuum bag.
Like literarly at work I can see you having to incorporate it into a procedure for doing whatever, then like 5 years later someone talks crap about your work when they try it because they still have tons of the stuff.
Electric and Musical Industries also referred to as EMI Records Ltd
had this made in Japan - sold to Australia in 1975 - 1977 under the His Master's Voice brand.
as a AM/FM radio with clock & compact cassette recorder. battery or AC power
4 x D cell also 1 C cell for the clock.
the His Master's Voice badge is missing from the case.
A couple days late, but I gifted myself a Denon DVD-A1XV for christmas. Fully working, perfect condition, with remote and stuff. Happily spent 100 EUR for it.
Will replace my DVD-3930.
I've bought a GRIFEMA Monitor stand for my DHO942s.
And a Ruoshui 4091C Lcr Meter