I found these Knipex precision wire strippers for around half the usual going rate on eBay, ordered one (smaller 12 12 02 model) because I was getting frustrated at manually stripping PTFE wire since the normal $20 jobbies from Jaycar/Bunnings wasn't cutting it....literally.
No affiliation with the seller. Don't forget to use code "P5OZZIE" for 5% off eBay Australia, hope this helps a fellow Aussie out there.
eBay auction: #263328629991
Anyone have any experience with these models? The replacement blades look pretty expensive, maybe I should buy another spare set from this seller...
This is what I really want, just placed an order.
An Airedale Terrier puppy, called Griffin. photo from the breeder - in the silly 'stance'. The little fellow handled the interstate flight well - when we picked him up - he looked like he had been asleep for the one hour flight.
Airedales are great dogs (in general) - they don't shed hair, have a good temperament - even with children, and me!
But any loved animal - cat - dog - is a great thing for your life, they give so much back.
Airedales are great dogs (in general) - they don't shed hair, have a good temperament - even with children, and me!
But any loved animal - cat - dog - is a great thing for your life, they give so much back.
Poop. They give a lot of poop back.
Yes, and the time I live longer I spend collecting dogpoop.
Yes, and the time I live longer I spend collecting dogpoop.
The time spent in collecting dogpoop counts as exercise which will increase your lifetime
Got two sets of
decade resistor boxes today
The resistors are made from "Aurotan 43" wire (Manganin wire) and the casing are made from gray Bakelite.
They are in pretty good shape for 1960s gear.
Here are two photos with the 0.1 ohms box at x1 and x10 measured with a Fluke 79 in 40 ohms mode and zeroed leads.
Received a Racal 2202R today and after preparing space to accommodate it found it's longer than expected. Doh! I thought it had the same dimensions as the 1998
Oh well, more re-adjustments required.
This is the Rb version and it provides a 10MHz reference output which I will use to sync the 1998, SDG1025, and the Tek scope so they play together nicely. That's the plan anyway. In this photo the gear has been powered up for 30min, the SDG1025 is using its internal reference (an upgraded TCXO).
Edit: Ok, fully warmed up now I should think after 3 hours. The SDG1025 is using the external 10MHz reference provided by the 2202, it is outputting 20MHz back to the 2202 (which reads 20 MHz exactly - hardly surprising), the 1998 reads a little under @ 19.999,999,7MHz (using its internal OCXO), while the cheap Chinese 8-digit counter is reading 20.000,001 MHz (amazingly accurate for an £8 counter).
Received a Racal 2202R today and after preparing space to accommodate it found it's longer than expected. Doh! I thought it had the same dimensions as the 1998 Oh well, more re-adjustments required.
This is the Rb version and it provides a 10MHz reference output which I will use to sync the 1998, SDG1025, and the Tek scope so they play together nicely. That's the plan anyway. In this photo the gear has been powered up for 30min, the SDG1025 is using its internal reference (an upgraded TCXO).
Edit: Ok, fully warmed up now I should think after 3 hours. The SDG1025 is using the external 10MHz reference provided by the 2202, it is outputting 20MHz back to the 2202 (which reads 20 MHz exactly - hardly surprising), the 1998 reads a little under @ 19.999,999,7MHz (using its internal OCXO), while the cheap Chinese 8-digit counter is reading 20.000,001 MHz (amazingly accurate for an £8 counter).
How's that DM3058 working out for you? I'm really on the fence about buying one. It seems to do everything I need right now, but doesn't quite have the "want" factor.
I'm a bit concerned about longer term stability too, considering some of the stories.
I don't have anything more accurate to compare it to, but it works fine as a general pupose bench DMM. I had watched a few vids of the DM3068 thinking they were basically the same meter but the '68 having the extra digit resolution. Wrong. The '68 has many more functions than the 3058 in terms of math functions and display, and also speed. It's much faster than the TTi 1604 I have though.
That's a bit disheartening, to be honest. I think I watched every video out there, but most are on the DM3068. I guess you had the same problems. Can you elaborate on some of the differences, maybe the ones you consider most disappointing?
I will attempt a review at some point, but things like the sampling speed - on the '68 you can enter the interval numerically while on the '58 you get three options of fast, medium and slow.. The graphing capabilities are reduced, although the '58 will show a histogram (bargraph) I don't believe it will show the real-time line graphs seen in the '68 demo videos.
edit: and now you just made me go look at it more closely I see the LCD is having issues... a dark patch has appeared on the RH side that wasn't there before... See pic..
I will attempt a review at some point, but things like the sampling speed - on the '68 you can enter the interval numerically while on the '58 you get three options of fast, medium and slow.. The graphing capabilities are reduced, although the '58 will show a histogram (bargraph) I don't believe it will show the real-time line graphs seen in the '68 demo videos.
I guess that seals the deal, then. With the weirdly densely packed bench multimeter market being what it is, and no real obvious good and cheap models near the bottom, I'm considering springing for something fancy of a name brand. Those are not that much more expensive than their oriental competitors. If you compare that to something like oscilloscopes, the relative difference is much more profound.
I seem to have a thing for AC transformers lately, picked this up at the post office today (it was funny to see their reaction when they picked up that heavy box.
). Ebay purchase:
1500va and steps up to 480 depending on winding config. It's to provide isolation when working on mains stuff, figured I'd go all out in case I decide to get into high power SMPSes and I can actually do a high load test if I want to. What I want to do is combine this with the variac I bought earlier and build a big AC power supply. Probably in a 4U rackmount form factor and make it look retro with some panel meters and stuff. To control the variac I'd probably look at playing with a stepper motor and belt drive or something. I would probably rarely go much higher than 120v but the extra voltage would be available if I decide to go photonicinduction on something.
This transformer has a nice hum to it too. When hooked up to the variac the hum intensifies as I bring the voltage up. I can play with that knob all day.
Received a Racal 2202R today and after preparing space to accommodate it found it's longer than expected. Doh! I thought it had the same dimensions as the 1998 Oh well, more re-adjustments required.
This is the Rb version and it provides a 10MHz reference output which I will use to sync the 1998, SDG1025, and the Tek scope so they play together nicely. That's the plan anyway. In this photo the gear has been powered up for 30min, the SDG1025 is using its internal reference (an upgraded TCXO).
Edit: Ok, fully warmed up now I should think after 3 hours. The SDG1025 is using the external 10MHz reference provided by the 2202, it is outputting 20MHz back to the 2202 (which reads 20 MHz exactly - hardly surprising), the 1998 reads a little under @ 19.999,999,7MHz (using its internal OCXO), while the cheap Chinese 8-digit counter is reading 20.000,001 MHz (amazingly accurate for an £8 counter).
Yep, those cheap chinese counters are very impressive, mine is equally as close to the frequency displayed on my main proper frequency counter, just not as sensitive though.
I go a broken CityEL/MiniEL from an auction, i did only pay about 600 USD for it. I only had to replace one microswitch to get it to drive again. I need some new lifepo4 cells because one of the old cells does have a to high internal resistance, i can't drive up the hill in front of my house because the voltage drops below the cutoff voltage of 2.5V on that cell and the BMS shuts everything down, which is not too funny on steep road
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CityEl
That's a cute little car.
Interesting way to use ribbon cable!
Also, I've never seen that car before, not just here in the US, anywhere. Good luck with it, that's just a great deal, seems like you may just need one new battery or perhaps even just to remove it to get it running.
Love the CityEl, right up my alley, unfortunately I bet the NZ Transport Authority would not remotely be interested in allowing something like that on the road here, I don't think even Renault got any Twizy road legal (they had a couple of demonstrator models for carpark/track drives but that was it). I have to make do with my Daihatsu Midget II as the most obscure micro vehicle I could find, still it does come in handy, not many single seaters you can use to move house or take a load to the dump.
The CityEl is street legal here, it is classified as motorcycle but you need a car dirvers license to drive it. The good thing is that nobody at the motor vehicle inspection station knows how a such exotic vheicle should look, and i guess that they do not know much about electric vehicles.
They will only look for stuff like brakes and lights...
That's a cool EV, Urs42. First time I've seen one, too. Sounds like you got a great deal.
Bought a Rigol DS1054Z scope.