I was more of a PSION fan. I went through most of them and still have my PSION 3c and MX5. The sliding keyboard on the MX5 was an engineering masterpiece and the button feel could put many modern laptops to shame.
McBryce.
I still have mine as well, the biggest problem with them was the screen, lack of contrast made them hard to read unless in the best lighting.
An used Korean spectrum analyzer 9kHz-3.0GHz NX-30.
Well I might have some good news for you, if you are not afraid of splicing. It is of course a generic element, but that specific type is common as dirt in china. It is the, "A1322 Heating Element", i am guessing based off the handle. No guarantees of course, i may be wrong, but i had a handle very similar.
Is this the one:
https://www.banggood.com/5pcs-24V-50W-A1322-Soldering-Station-Replacement-Heating-Element-Ceramic-Heater-p-1094025.html ??
and Banggood has this:
https://www.banggood.com/110V220V-Heating-Element-for-YIHUA-908-Electric-Iron-Thermostat-Soldering-Station-p-1117931.htmlPersonally, I'd spend a fraction more and get some 220 in 24 out T12 soldering units, spares are really plentiful and cheap. They are the best soldering experience I've ever had, really fast heat up time and fully controllable Banggood and Aliexpress sell them.
My luck was bad on the one that stopped working, because I am using the other one and it is perfect. I liked it because of small size and so on.. will get others too in the future.
This is the one you mean:
https://www.banggood.com/DSK-Digital-Soldering-Station-Kit-Soldering-Iron-Station-Temperature-Controller-p-1055574.htmlit is 50$ without the base so it is not as you explained, I expect the whole one to be 60$ at least. Cannot compete 18$.
this one was my first choice:
https://www.banggood.com/110V-220V-Inverter-Frequency-Change-Electric-936-Power-Soldering-Station-Iron-p-1093556.html
Well I might have some good news for you, if you are not afraid of splicing. It is of course a generic element, but that specific type is common as dirt in china. It is the, "A1322 Heating Element", i am guessing based off the handle. No guarantees of course, i may be wrong, but i had a handle very similar.
Is this the one: https://www.banggood.com/5pcs-24V-50W-A1322-Soldering-Station-Replacement-Heating-Element-Ceramic-Heater-p-1094025.html ??
and Banggood has this:
https://www.banggood.com/110V220V-Heating-Element-for-YIHUA-908-Electric-Iron-Thermostat-Soldering-Station-p-1117931.html
Personally, I'd spend a fraction more and get some 220 in 24 out T12 soldering units, spares are really plentiful and cheap. They are the best soldering experience I've ever had, really fast heat up time and fully controllable Banggood and Aliexpress sell them.
My luck was bad on the one that stopped working, because I am using the other one and it is perfect. I liked it because of small size and so on.. will get others too in the future.
This is the one you mean: https://www.banggood.com/DSK-Digital-Soldering-Station-Kit-Soldering-Iron-Station-Temperature-Controller-p-1055574.html
it is 50$ without the base so it is not as you explained, I expect the whole one to be 60$ at least. Cannot compete 18$.
this one was my first choice: https://www.banggood.com/110V-220V-Inverter-Frequency-Change-Electric-936-Power-Soldering-Station-Iron-p-1093556.html
You could always try Aliexpress and purchase the system in kit form.
Ignore the photo of the apple power supply in the enclosure, I think you will receive the one shown expanded view of parts.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/QUICKO-STC-T12-LED-Digital-Soldering-Station-DIY-kits-ABS-plastic-Shell-new-controller-ver-HAKKO/32838444422.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.32.45798d616tN3CP&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_10548_10341_10192_10190_10084_10083_10618_10307_10301_10303_5711211_10313_10059_10184_10534_100031_10103_10627_10626_10624_10623_10622_5722411_10621_10620_5711313,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=b4b66a58-6e22-4606-85af-4fb44bc3230f-4&algo_pvid=b4b66a58-6e22-4606-85af-4fb44bc3230f&priceBeautifyAB=0
After a few years of reliable power delivery and ease of use, I went ahead for my second Korad KA3005P unit.
I guess the lesson learned is to either buy two of these or get a triple-output PS. Even though I have two other low-range power supplies, I kept myself finding the need for a second lab-graded PS during some experiments.
recently i got a bunch of microcontrollers some dspic30f and 16f
Ever ordered something and completely forgotten about it? This DPS5015 arrived today which I'd ordered just before Chinese New Year..
Also thirty 608 bearings to go into stock - less 8 to be used to make a couple of 3D Printer filament rollers (the base is the red thing to the right). That's printed with PET-G, good stuff to print with albeit it's a bit stringy requiring some clean up. A little more flexible than ABS but much tougher and less likely to crack/snap. Another big advantage - it doesn't warp like ABS!
Regarding stringing while printing PETG:
I found, that PETG can be printed nicely at lower temperatures than specified. Depending on the part and how quick I am printing, I usually go for 205°C as a starting point. Gives me very nice results, even with high extrusion rates on the UMO+.
IPETG from dasfilament.de that is - can not say a lot about other manufacturers.
Regarding stringing while printing PETG:
I found, that PETG can be printed nicely at lower temperatures than specified. Depending on the part and how quick I am printing, I usually go for 205°C as a starting point. Gives me a very results, even with high extrusion rates on the UMO+.
IPETG from dasfilament.de that is - can not say a lot about other manufacturers.
That's interesting, and worth an experiment. I start the first layer @ 240 then drop to 230 for the remainder. I've tried with/without the nozzle cooler enabled too and the stringing is worse with the cooler on, although the result is much more 'blobby' without (which is actually more difficult to clean up). A quick exposure to a cigarette light flame quickly removes the fine strings but does nothing for the blobs which need to be manually cut off.
Well I might have some good news for you, if you are not afraid of splicing. It is of course a generic element, but that specific type is common as dirt in china. It is the, "A1322 Heating Element", i am guessing based off the handle. No guarantees of course, i may be wrong, but i had a handle very similar.
Is this the one: https://www.banggood.com/5pcs-24V-50W-A1322-Soldering-Station-Replacement-Heating-Element-Ceramic-Heater-p-1094025.html ??
and Banggood has this:
https://www.banggood.com/110V220V-Heating-Element-for-YIHUA-908-Electric-Iron-Thermostat-Soldering-Station-p-1117931.html
Personally, I'd spend a fraction more and get some 220 in 24 out T12 soldering units, spares are really plentiful and cheap. They are the best soldering experience I've ever had, really fast heat up time and fully controllable Banggood and Aliexpress sell them.
My luck was bad on the one that stopped working, because I am using the other one and it is perfect. I liked it because of small size and so on.. will get others too in the future.
This is the one you mean: https://www.banggood.com/DSK-Digital-Soldering-Station-Kit-Soldering-Iron-Station-Temperature-Controller-p-1055574.html
it is 50$ without the base so it is not as you explained, I expect the whole one to be 60$ at least. Cannot compete 18$.
this one was my first choice: https://www.banggood.com/110V-220V-Inverter-Frequency-Change-Electric-936-Power-Soldering-Station-Iron-p-1093556.html[/url
Either should work, give or take some improvisation.
Brought a top up of Aluminium stock to lop up into a dual rack kit for my 34970A's and 6632B power supply.
Even s/hand these are too !@#$ing expensive for the real thing.
Drilling and Tapping time
Well, it was technically purchased on Friday, but it arrived today. I believe I saw this on someone's bench picture on the 'Show us your workbench' thread about a month ago, and, being tired of hanging my pliers on the edge of a cardboard box on top of my wire equipment rack, decided to buy one. I think it will make for much neater tool storage:
-Pat
Well, it was technically purchased on Friday, but it arrived today. I believe I saw this on someone's bench picture on the 'Show us your workbench' thread about a month ago, and, being tired of hanging my pliers on the edge of a cardboard box on top of my wire equipment rack, decided to buy one. I think it will make for much neater tool storage:
-Pat
I have a couple of old Hacksaw Blade Racks in use for storing small diameter tube and wire including heatshrink. Works well until the content gets 'shoved' to the side of the bench
A few weeks ago I bought an STM32f746g-disco development board.
If you add on a small daughter board with a small synthesiser (SI5351A) along with two mixer IC (SA612), using the board layout and software very Kindly shared freely by EU1KY; for a total of about AUD$110 you can make a 450MHz S11 Antenna VNA! As Dave would say BEAUDY MATE
It can measure R + j
Time Domain Reflectometry
Scan a reasonable span ie multiple 10s of MHz
Calculate a solution for 50 Ohm system
Act as a weak 2-20mV signal generator
http://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/32f746gdiscovery.htmlhttps://bitbucket.org/kuchura/eu1ky_aa_v3/wiki/HomeBelow is a screenshot of one of the outputs of my unit- ie Smith Chart, it can also do return loss, VSWR.
A big thanks to EU1KY
I bought a 10 bit Absolute rotary encoder, from china.
And it works!But I had to take it apart to find the pinout of the connector, I can't read chinese colors.
To my surprise, I did not expect it to work with a magnet.
*note: none of the sellers on aliexpress have the correct product description.
I bought a 10 bit Absolute rotary encoder, from china. And it works!
But I had to take it apart to find the pinout of the connector, I can't read chinese colors.
To my surprise, I did not expect it to work with a magnet.
*note: none of the sellers on aliexpress have the correct product description.
Nice! Do you have the link? Is it based on Austria Microsystems chips (AS5040 and similar)?
Red thick black black green white
Using the same color twice for different signals, i have no words , why?
To my surprise, I did not expect it to work with a magnet.
Wait, what? So, if there's some external magnetic field, the angle data this thing gives will be wrong?
And how linear is it?
Edit @Kjelt: thick-black, black. What same color?
There is a magnet bond to the shaft, when the shaft rotates, the magnetic field commutates, and the sensor IC detects the position by the H field.
Yes, I deduced all that from the photo. Which is why I asked about external fields. Presumably the housing is steel or mu-metal and provides some magnetic shielding. But it can't be 100%.