Nice, how are the cutters and jaw points on them?
I got a set of Klien pliers as a present a decade or more ago. They have one or two nicks in the cutter blades, but they will still cut a human hair in the undamaged parts.
As a test I once put a cigarette paper and a motorcycle clutch cable into them at the same time and it cut cleanly through both in the same closure.
Their jaw points don't actually meet, which I thought was a design oversight until I used them to strip cables and went, "Ah ha!", not a mistake.
Another xbox one s console. This one has a green screen of death.
$80 + postage.
Oh you can fix these by reflowing the CPU.
It's a known issue. Some people did it in their home kitchen oven, and worked most of the time
Yes, i remember the "Towel mod", where people "reflowed" the CPU by wrapping the console in a towel blocking the vents and let it run for a while.
Yes, i remember the "Towel mod", where people "reflowed" the CPU by wrapping the console in a towel blocking the vents and let it run for a while.
It's amazing that any big product like that could have such terrible thermal management and monitoring that it would ever allow it to get hot enough to reflow.
Nice, how are the cutters and jaw points on them?
I got a set of Klien pliers as a present a decade or more ago. They have one or two nicks in the cutter blades, but they will still cut a human hair in the undamaged parts.
As a test I once put a cigarette paper and a motorcycle clutch cable into them at the same time and it cut cleanly through both in the same closure.
Their jaw points don't actually meet, which I thought was a design oversight until I used them to strip cables and went, "Ah ha!", not a mistake.
The Pliers are a hardened set (harder than the cutters) and the jaws closer to the hinge have a small gap but across the main part are tight. Cutters engage at the tip first with no pressure and with light pressure (blurry shot
) close up perfectly so they are 'currently' uniform until I do something nasty to them
Engaging at the tip first makes sense if that is intentional
as the finer part will be easier to flex than the rear fatter part to get a full flat cut.
A Paco model v-70 vacuum tube voltmeter and a Paco model sc-1 condenser substitution box are on its way.
I treated myself to a set of Knipex 00 20 72 V01 mini pliers.
This is a little too easy...
I think so, too
It seems to me you are buying at close to the price of working consoles (at least, that's what they are here in the UK), and it's those you will be competing with once you have the things working. But you won't be getting that price, even you sell them at that price, because Ebay will take their cut and your payment processor will take their cut, and there is shipping on top. If you can make that work then it is a cool way to get some new toys, but I think it best to wait until you've actually got rid of the stuff before celebrating.
I don't want to put you off and think that any attempt to make a go of things is great, but one has to be realistic at some point. Perhaps there is a market for 'professionally refurbished' machines that are a bit more expensive than generic used ones. You might have to wait a while for someone to bite, though, and of course the finish would need to be very good.
Yes, some days are better spent in bed
Good luck, anyway.
Good condition consoles hover around $200
Ah! I just realised that you could well be talking AUD rather than the more robust USD, so the prices you pay are indeed a fair bit lower than the USD-GBP conversion would suggest. Sorry!
Looking on Gumtree, xbox one s are listed for ~$200.
Seems like you'd be able to sell it for 160-180 and not have to deal with shipping or fees.
You'll never guess, but if you do, you'll never guess what it will be adapted to be...
You'll never guess, but if you do, you'll never guess what it will be adapted to be...
Looks a lot like the thing that the divorce lawyers had my balls in.
You'll never guess, but if you do, you'll never guess what it will be adapted to be...
Looks a lot like the thing that the divorce lawyers had my balls in.
Squishing things is part of the plan. Not quite that way though, but yes
BTW, I had to do a ball squeezer google image search, and what I think you're referring to included inappropriate imagery...
Bought a bunch of temperature recorders. Pull the tab and a geared motor like found in common wall-clock movements is started. A stylus mounted on the end of a coil makes an impression on carbon paper. Cost was $0.10 a piece. Batteries probably need to be replaced.
Bought a bunch of temperature recorders. Pull the tab and a geared motor like found in common wall-clock movements is started. A stylus mounted on the end of a coil makes an impression on carbon paper. Cost was $0.10 a piece. Batteries probably need to be replaced.
Redmond, WA? Does it interface to W10?
How does the temp. graph make a dark line on the paper?
How does the temp. graph make a dark line on the paper?
When you close the box the stylus impinges on the roll of paper which appears to be like carbon-copy paper. So theoretically if you found the right kind of paper you could turn it into a longer-term temperature chart recorder.
You'll never guess, but if you do, you'll never guess what it will be adapted to be...
I had a similar device used to repair pinions in clocks.
But for the size looks more like a guide for leather punches.
Engaging at the tip first makes sense if that is intentional as the finer part will be easier to flex than the rear fatter part to get a full flat cut.
After I posted it dawned on me why the jaw points don't meet. It's so you can re-surface the cutter blades. They only meet at the cutter blades, so if you grind them back to sharp and lose 0.25mm of cutter blade, they still meet (if machined well).
Engaging at the tip first makes sense if that is intentional as the finer part will be easier to flex than the rear fatter part to get a full flat cut.
After I posted it dawned on me why the jaw points don't meet. It's so you can re-surface the cutter blades. They only meet at the cutter blades, so if you grind them back to sharp and lose 0.25mm of cutter blade, they still meet (if machined well).
Part of the issue with a regrind is you need to make that in reference to the pivot point rather than blade to blade or you will screw up the geometry. So a tip heavy grind will be needed to keep them tight when closed.
Yes I was bored with my current CAD project too and needed a break and the geometry challenge was interesting
1 degree of jaw opening shown
new HV probe. I had a old probe but the resistor inside looks like it was 'smokey' with particulate under the top coat, and it was generally quite old plastic, so I decided to buy a new fluke probe to keep safety up. I don't think its wise to save money in that area.
After a nutty November/December and January
I finally got time to open the tabs on the box that arrived 3 weeks ago containing my Reci 100W Laser Tube. I did give it a light shake on arrival and no glass tinkle tinkle sounds came out so that was as far as I got.
Outer ply "Induste al" protection, Inner thick cardboard and 50-60mm of foam wrap before anything gets to the fragile bits