Seeing all these crap products makes me mad, but mostly sad... Sad that for every Batteriser that you expose for bring a scam, you have 10x more types of garbage products out there that continue. It is an impossible task to challenge them all, and even if you did, people would still buy them and swindlers will continue to make a living.
So what has this entire Batteriser drama taught us (besides a nice refresher on proper electronics testing and measurement and battery and boost circuits performance).... Well, sadly, that we may as well just give up because if every one of these crap scammy product companies fight like Batteroo, it is just going to be too tiring.
We can discuss and debate it all in the forums, Dave can call it B.S. and do a video, but this going back and forth just gets pointless very quickly when you realize there is no way to argue with the scammers, and it is hard to reach the potential victims of the scam also. I guess caveat emptor is right.
Time was 9 hr 38 min from start until it shut off. What's interesting is that even while using boost converters, the bare GPS without using the boost converters went almost nearly as low in voltage before it shut off, so I have a feeling if I re-run this with teh battery mode set to lithium (so the screen never dims), batteries will probably run longer due to avoiding the losses in the boost converters. I'll probably test that tonight for fun.
[Some nice graphs not quoted here]
Link to the timelapse:
Nice data
Nice graphs
Data is so beautiful, so here are finally the voltages I have collected since the discussion has begun:
Whenever I get the chance to test a product's cut out voltage I do now, and I have only found one which a small chance that a Batteriser could improve the usability. But that's clearly due to a bad design decision.
So far:
Honeywell Rondostat Radiator Controller (2 AA) Firmware 2.04: 1.95-2.05V
Honeywell Rondostat Radiator Controller (2 AA) Firmware 1.xx (sorry forgot to note that down): 2.1-2.2V
Logitech Wireless mouse M705 (2 AA NiMH) 1.87V but starts to get weird around 2.0V
A cheapo crappy chinese "One-Hung-Lo" Mosquito heater pen (2 AAA) : 2.3V not really cut out, but heating up takes awfully long.
Clock, recently deceased battery (1 AA) : 0.78V, measured without load.
Remote for LG TV (2AA): This remote is badly designed IMO, the capacitor inside is too small and it takes high current spikes.
The µCurrent revealed it Voltage under load (a spike) 1.6-1.7V while the batteries had 2.33V when idle.
Why I quote voltage ranges and not one voltage:
Sometimes I took several measurements under load, for instance when that radiator controller turned the motor on.
The voltage gets very noisy then and the values are jumping around a little.
I got the feeling that batteries that have been used for a long time (clock ore remote control) have a higher inner resistance than these who were used for one ow two months. However I didn't measure that, so that's just a guess.
All batteries were Alkaline, various brands but mostly VARTA.
Still to come:
A Surefeed RFID controlled cat feeder (prevents the other cat from stealing) : (4 C cells) : That thing is going for ages now, very impressed with that.
A PIR sensor controlled "get off the table, cat" compressed air spray can (4 AAA): Cat's are not naughty enough, so it's still going..
Dunno if it makes sense to also check the CR2032 from another remote
And even with the random items that could potentially benefit from batteriser, you still have to accept the fact that you lose any battery level indicators in products, on top of the risk of your camera shutting off during a video record because you never got a low battery indicator.
And that's also assuming you use batteries WITHOUT batteriser until the device powers off, THEN put batteriser on, else you lose 10-30% through the losses in the batterisers.
Lots of variables, very little REAL information out of batteroo. I'm very curious to see how the numbers look using the real deal once they're out. (if they ever ship)
Somebody should make a request at UL with the claimed UL Project Number: 4787059213.
http://ul.com/offerings/market-surveillance/
Frankie Roohparvar's initial brainstorm:
Do all EE Engineers draw ellipses like an 8-year old would?
And to think Batteriser was bad... This fuel saver is even worse! Very sad indeed that these crooks can go to work every day and swindle money from people.
Whenever I get the chance to test a product's cut out voltage I do now, and I have only found one which a small chance that a Batteriser could improve the usability. But that's clearly due to a bad design decision.
...
We can discuss and debate it all in the forums, Dave can call it B.S. and do a video, but this going back and forth just gets pointless very quickly when you realize there is no way to argue with the scammers, and it is hard to reach the potential victims of the scam also. I guess caveat emptor is right.
A phone call doesn't sound that bad. You can discuss with her the facts, it might help other people who otherwise would buy the Batteriser.
Magazines and journalists do not have the judgement power to decide what's true or not.
They are on the "Volt=Current, bad contact=short circuit and Power=Energy" side of the story, unless proven differently.
Time was 9 hr 38 min from start until it shut off. What's interesting is that even while using boost converters, the bare GPS without using the boost converters went almost nearly as low in voltage before it shut off, so I have a feeling if I re-run this with teh battery mode set to lithium (so the screen never dims), batteries will probably run longer due to avoiding the losses in the boost converters. I'll probably test that tonight for fun.
Without boost converters:
And don't you just love those dips way below the product cutoff voltage, and wow!, what you know, the product didn't switch off!
Oops, just busted Batteriser "Technical" video that was all about those dreaded voltage dips
Lots of variables, very little REAL information out of batteroo.
Frankie Roohparvar's initial brainstorm:
Do all EE Engineers draw ellipses like an 8-year old would?
Is this what 'Big Battery and the break-in' was about?
And don't you just love those dips way below the product cutoff voltage, and wow!, what you know, the product didn't switch off!
Oops, just busted Batteriser "Technical" video that was all about those dreaded voltage dipsWhich is why they only ever posted the current graph of their gps test, even through they were also logging voltage...
The designers of these products don't like being called out:
http://www.compendiumarcana.com/fuel_doctor_fd47/