If it doesn't get to Dave before Christmas, there might be a bit of a wait....
Between Saturday 24th to Monday 2nd January, Australia Post will only be working on the 29th & 30th December.
Some of us aren't even working that! I started my leave yesterday.
But yes you are correct the delivery centres have been going full tilt with maximum staffing levels (even staff from other parts off the biz have been helping out + heaps of casuals) so I think they deserve their breaks.
I don't know if it has been covered, but could it happen that in a multi battery device one of the batteries plunges to 0V while the others keep pushing 1.5V, leading to battery failure simmilar to mixing old and new cells?
I don't know if it has been covered, but could it happen that in a multi battery device one of the batteries plunges to 0V while the others keep pushing 1.5V, leading to battery failure simmilar to mixing old and new cells?
Maybe they have invented some battery neighbor discovery interface, so when 1 battery drops to 0 - it is bypassed by FET ( Schottky might have too high leakage), and the remaining battery boost to 3V now. Mixing old and new batteries this way could indeed be useful in some scenarios and provide extra capacity. Fat chance...
... We are approaching the 300 pages mark in this topic ..... Nice! We should celebrate this milestone!
Waaaaay ahead of you (hic) :-)
The batterizer BOM cost is likely around $0.75 USD, which might make the IC around $0.20 or so. If that math is close, that would be a cool IC, even if it was only good to 500 mA.
I can buy one of those Chinese modules for $0.50, so... cheap chips already exist. Some of them work with a single battery.
Along with all the technical data, I think you should include "real world" examples for those who either don't fully understand the technical stuff or simply don't care. For example: Device A - Run time with/without Batteriser and include actual "perfomance" figures too, so for something like a torch you might want to include a graph showing light output over time.
Don't tell Boob, let's see how long it takes him to spot the spelling mistake.
(We already know BatterPoo reads this site.)
I before E - except after BatterPoo.
I can't find the information on the Batteroo webpage that it is not recommended to use Batteroo with LED flashlights, as it is
written in the letter you get with the sleeves. Did they forget to mention this?
BTW, while searching the website, I noticed an interesting change in the FAQ about max current:
Are there limitations on devices that can use the Batteroo based on the current consumptions? No, the Batteroo sleeve is designed to only deliver as much current as a battery would supply normally
Translation from weasel speak: the regulator IC has an integrated current limiter and you are screwed if your device needs more. As the Wayback machine reveals, this sounded more optimistic some months ago:
https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20160630134320/http://batteriser.com/faq/ :
Are there limitations on devices that can use the Batteriser based on the current consumptions? No, the Batteriser sleeve is designed to deliver as much current as a battery is able to supply to the device.
PS: in 2001 batteroo.com was some (south) Korean website:
https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20011117092248/http://batteroo.com:80/
Along with all the technical data, I think you should include "real world" examples for those who either don't fully understand the technical stuff or simply don't care. For example: Device A - Run time with/without Batteriser and include actual "perfomance" figures too, so for something like a torch you might want to include a graph showing light output over time.
Of course, why do you think I have that product run time spreadsheet setup.
I can't find the information on the Batteroo webpage that it is not recommended to use Batteroo with LED flashlights, as it is written in the letter you get with the sleeves. Did they forget to mention this?
Quote from the letter you posted:
"we do not recommend using Batteroo with LED flashlights"
This is under Passive Loads
Therefore I am afraid any testing with LED lights will be meaningless. Stick with the MP3 player (FYI mine is 8 gb)
You have the best Batteroo test equipment in the world! PROBES!
I'm not so sure. Probes might clap more ferociously with batteriser so some people would call that a win even if he clapped for half the time.
Any testing of Probes would need to count the total number of claps. Maybe you could sit him next to a microphone then record a wav file and calculate the RMS volume.
"we do not recommend using Batteroo with LED flashlights"
ie. The easiest, most obvious thing that most people would test is forbidden and Bob can weasel out of any results that might involve torches.
(apart from his own torch video, obviously...)
Also I'm on the 300th page yay!
So am I, it would seem. Does this signify anything?
Oh, wait ....
"we do not recommend using Batteroo with LED flashlights"
ie. The easiest, most obvious thing that most people would test is forbidden and Bob can weasel out of any results that might involve torches.
(apart from his own torch video, obviously...)
But I couldn't find this limitation on the Batteroo webpage or Indiegogo description. If I buy a product, and then I get informed of important limitations only after I got the product doesn't sound right, and even Batteroo friend Wayne did use it with torches.
Dave, I think the first video should be a test that shows if the product is useful for customers and if it lives up to its claims. Nothing extremely technical. This is, after all, what it is about.The general public can use this video to determine if they want to buy the product, they cannot determine that by all sorts of technical stuff. Then, a next video could be about testing efficiency etc for the technical people.
But I couldn't find this limitation on the Batteroo webpage or Indiegogo description. If I buy a product, and then I get informed of important limitations only after I got the product doesn't sound right, and even Batteroo friend Wayne did use it with torches.
I still think Wayne's torches were included in the box from Bob - they found something that actually lasted much longer by cheating (the torch was slightly current limited on Batteriser).
Do the test.
Bob can use the disclaimer to weasel but I bet a lot of these will be bought for use in torches. People need to be angry if they don't work.
I'm not so sure. Probes might clap more ferociously with batteriser so some people would call that a win even if he clapped for half the time.
This brings to mind the original 'Energiser' & 'Duracell' bunny ads from the 80sThat would be a great remake with two toys side-by-side, and a spoof voice-over to re-create the feeling of that original commercial. Look, the Batterpoo bunny runs faster and harder for half as long.
Battery steroids?
The simplest possible test would be a 1.5 V (or 3V) incandescent torch bulb in a bulb holder connected to an AA or AAA cell holder. No electronics. Insert cell. Time and record with video time lapse. Repeat with batteroo'd cell, also time with time lapse. Have recording camera set with same fixed aperture in both tests. Play back both test videos side by side. See how the brightness compares visually, and see which one dims first and which bulb dies first.
Play back both test videos side by side. See how the brightness compares visually, and see which one dims first and which bulb dies first.
The magic of video editing, I really like this idea. The effect of the Batteroo sleeve would be obvious if you can see the lamp still glowing without the sleeve for half of the video while the Batteroo side is dark. Don't forget to place a timer (I will use my iPhone) in the test setup as well.
Play back both test videos side by side. See how the brightness compares visually, and see which one dims first and which bulb dies first.
The magic of video editing, I really like this idea. The effect of the Batteroo sleeve would be obvious if you can see the lamp still glowing without the sleeve for half of the video while the Batteroo side is dark. Don't forget to place a timer (I will use my iPhone) in the test setup as well.
Be sure to use fixed exposure on the camera.
Just use two light bulbs and two battery holders (one with the Batteroo). No editing needed.
Alexander.
I don't know if it has been covered, but could it happen that in a multi battery device one of the batteries plunges to 0V while the others keep pushing 1.5V, leading to battery failure simmilar to mixing old and new cells?
Maybe they have invented some battery neighbor discovery interface, so when 1 battery drops to 0 - it is bypassed by FET ( Schottky might have too high leakage), and the remaining battery boost to 3V now. Mixing old and new batteries this way could indeed be useful in some scenarios and provide extra capacity. Fat chance...
I don't think that mixing batteries is a good idea and the Batteroo sleeves wouldn't help either. Even with a smart bypass you'll lose 1.5V which might trigger the device's low-bat warning or cut-out voltage. Another point is the current. The sleeve with the cell nearing its end might not provide enough current to power the device. And think about the hassle to find out which cell to replace. If your device needs three AAs and you put a fresh set of AAs in, you'll replace them once when they are empty. If you are mixing cells your device stops working two times more in the same time, and you have to figure out which cell to replace.
Just use to light bulbs and two battery holder (one with the Batteroo). No editing needed.
Alexander.
I think the full running time might be a bit boring. Maybe take a 5 second clip from every minute or just speed up playback.
A bit of clearly impartial editing would really be necessary for most people, but you could still have the full video available for those who want to scour every frame.
Play back both test videos side by side. See how the brightness compares visually, and see which one dims first and which bulb dies first.
The magic of video editing, I really like this idea. The effect of the Batteroo sleeve would be obvious if you can see the lamp still glowing without the sleeve for half of the video while the Batteroo side is dark. Don't forget to place a timer (I will use my iPhone) in the test setup as well.
Good one. As Dave mentioned, the fixed exposure is important, as usually the iPhone will normally adjust it's exposure so you won't be able to tell the actual relative brightness of the bulb. And to have the same ambient brightness and exposure/iso/frame rate/shutter speed/aperture in each time lapse. There are pro photog apps which you can get for the iPhone which will allow you to do this. But don't use the built in iPhone camera time lapse app. Sorry if this is all obvious to you, don't mean to tell you how to suck eggs. Look forward to seeing what you come up with.
(As was also suggested, having two bulbs and two battery holders side by side in the same shot - and starting both at the same time one with and one without a Batteroo sleeve - would save some time, but I was just afraid of detractors claiming that the two bulbs have slightly different resistance values which could make a difference to the outcome.)
Having a stopwatch, clock, or timer in the shot is important, as you mentioned.
[edit, oh I just misread the iPhone bit, that you're using the iPhone as the timer, not the video camera. Never mind, the fixed exposure stuff obviously still applies
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