When you live in a locale with an abundance of Hydro power, the numbers are quite impressive. These numbers would be even better if they had our province at 90% Hydro, but it's a US site, and the world stops at the 49th
Since we are doing energy comparisons..... 1 barrel of gas is the equivalent to the work 10 slave produce in a year.
What's wrong with the figures? Here's what I'm getting (2018 eGolf, mostly city driving, live at the top of a hill)
13.9 kWh/100km
What's wrong with the figures? Here's what I'm getting (2018 eGolf, mostly city driving, live at the top of a hill)
13.9 kWh/100km
That figure only means that your car on average consumes 13.9 kWh off the battery every 100 km.
But, to take 1 kWh off the battery, you first have had to take about 1/0.85 kWh off the wall plug, so, in reality, your car uses 13.9/0.85 = 16.4 kWh/100km not 13.9.
That's what's wrong with the figures: 1) there are losses in the charging circuit, 2) the round trip efficiency of a battery isn't 100%, and 3) if it's a Tesla even more because charging a cold battery turns on a battery heater, and a hot one a battery cooler (and when charging in a supercharger).
ICEs aren't like that because to get one litre into the tank you take one litre off the gas pump, there are no losses.
What's wrong with the figures? Here's what I'm getting (2018 eGolf, mostly city driving, live at the top of a hill)
13.9 kWh/100km
That figure only means that your car on average consumes 13.9 kWh off the battery every 100 km.
But, to take 1 kWh off the battery, you first have had to take about 1/0.85 kWh off the wall plug, so, in reality, your car uses 13.9/0.85 = 16.4 kWh/100km not 13.9.
That's what's wrong with the figures: 1) there are losses in the charging circuit, 2) the round trip efficiency of a battery isn't 100%, and 3) if it's a Tesla even more because charging a cold battery turns on a battery heater, and a hot one a battery cooler (and when charging in a supercharger).
ICEs aren't like that because to get one litre into the tank you take one litre off the gas pump, there are no losses.
Keep telling yourself it is cheaper. You could have bought a decent but efficient ICE based car for about US $11K less (including your tax break). That buys you a whole lot of fuel and gets much less depreciation. I already did the math on how far you have to drive to reach the financial break even point. Please tell us how much you drive on average annually.
Keep telling yourself it is cheaper. You could have bought a decent but efficient ICE based car for about US $11K less (including your tax break). That buys you a whole lot of fuel and gets much less depreciation. I already did the math on how far you have to drive to reach the financial break even point. Please tell us how much you drive on average annually.[li]A slightly less well equipped Golf (comparing apples to apple), would come in at C$5k/less. I'm saving about C$150/month ($10 electricity vs $160 petrol costs per month) right now vs my old car (2007 MB B200), so the difference should pay for itself in just under 3 years. If I were compare it to a more modern better fuel consumption vehicle, that probably goes up to 5yr, but no more.
- I don't purchase vehicles in US$ in much the same way you don't buy them in UK Pounds or Danish Kroner. If you pay attention to who you're talking to, it will help your argument.
- I could not have bought an equivalent vehicle for C$14k (your claimed US$11k) less. I paid C$31K (after govt rebate - not a tax deduction). According to your math an equivalent car is C$17K, which barely exists for the cheapest of econoboxes.
- I live in a jurisdiction with the highest gasoline prices, and some of the lowest electricity rates in all of North America, which makes the purchase particularly effective.
[/li][/list]
But who says you need to buy a Golf? Take a Ford Focus 1.0 for example.
Keep telling yourself it is cheaper. You could have bought a decent but efficient ICE based car for about US $11K less (including your tax break). That buys you a whole lot of fuel and gets much less depreciation. I already did the math on how far you have to drive to reach the financial break even point. Please tell us how much you drive on average annually.A slightly less well equipped Golf (comparing apples to apple), would come in at C$5k/less. I'm saving about C$150/month ($10 electricity vs $160 petrol costs per month) right now vs my old car (2007 MB B200), so the difference should pay for itself in just under 3 years. If I were compare it to a more modern better fuel consumption vehicle, that probably goes up to 5yr, but no more.
- I don't purchase vehicles in US$ in much the same way you don't buy them in UK Pounds or Danish Kroner. If you pay attention to who you're talking to, it will help your argument.
- I could not have bought an equivalent vehicle for C$14k (your claimed US$11k) less. I paid C$31K (after govt rebate - not a tax deduction). According to your math an equivalent car is C$17K, which barely exists for the cheapest of econoboxes.
- I live in a jurisdiction with the highest gasoline prices, and some of the lowest electricity rates in all of North America, which makes the purchase particularly effective.
But who says you need to buy a Golf? Take a Ford Focus 1.0 for example. Pretty similar to a Golf when it comes to size and comfort but without the VW price tag. The Ford Focus 1.0 costs C$22k according to an online price list. That is C$9K less for a car which actually does 5l/100km. Comparing to your old Mercedes (apparantly 8l/100km) is just nonsense because you are going to buy a new car anyway. You'll save 35% just on fuel so your fuels costs with the Ford Focus would be C$94 a month. C$9k/94=95.7 months=8 years. That is way more than 5 years!
Since we are doing energy comparisons..... 1 barrel of gas is the equivalent to the work 10 slave produce in a year.
Keep telling yourself it is cheaper. You could have bought a decent but efficient ICE based car for about US $11K less (including your tax break). That buys you a whole lot of fuel and gets much less depreciation. I already did the math on how far you have to drive to reach the financial break even point. Please tell us how much you drive on average annually.A slightly less well equipped Golf (comparing apples to apple), would come in at C$5k/less. I'm saving about C$150/month ($10 electricity vs $160 petrol costs per month) right now vs my old car (2007 MB B200), so the difference should pay for itself in just under 3 years. If I were compare it to a more modern better fuel consumption vehicle, that probably goes up to 5yr, but no more.
- I don't purchase vehicles in US$ in much the same way you don't buy them in UK Pounds or Danish Kroner. If you pay attention to who you're talking to, it will help your argument.
- I could not have bought an equivalent vehicle for C$14k (your claimed US$11k) less. I paid C$31K (after govt rebate - not a tax deduction). According to your math an equivalent car is C$17K, which barely exists for the cheapest of econoboxes.
- I live in a jurisdiction with the highest gasoline prices, and some of the lowest electricity rates in all of North America, which makes the purchase particularly effective.
But who says you need to buy a Golf? Take a Ford Focus 1.0 for example. Pretty similar to a Golf when it comes to size and comfort but without the VW price tag. The Ford Focus 1.0 costs C$22k according to an online price list. That is C$9K less for a car which actually does 5l/100km. Comparing to your old Mercedes (apparantly 8l/100km) is just nonsense because you are going to buy a new car anyway. You'll save 35% just on fuel so your fuels costs with the Ford Focus would be C$94 a month. C$9k/94=95.7 months=8 years. That is way more than 5 years!
By your logic, everyone should buy the cheapest car available. I bought a Golf, because I wanted something a little nicer/quieter/more comfortable. Doing the comparison of a nice electric car with the cheapest ICE car available is an irrelevant comparison.[/list]
I'm not stupid! BTW I choose the Ford Focus as an example because I know it is available with an extremely efficient 1 litre engine.
I'm not stupid! BTW I choose the Ford Focus as an example because I know it is available with an extremely efficient 1 litre engine.The issue is that you likely will need to replace the engine faster than a battery in EV. Many people got screwed after just a few years.
I'm not stupid! BTW I choose the Ford Focus as an example because I know it is available with an extremely efficient 1 litre engine.The issue is that you likely will need to replace the engine faster than a battery in EV. Many people got screwed after just a few years.There is an issue indeed with the very first batch of these models which is related to the cooling system. But there has been a recall (to replace a hose and reservoir) and engines are replaced under warranty.
nobody wants to have to drive the same car for 20 years in order to amortize it.