Thanks, I *finally* found that but the display + control panel is huge...no way to zoom out?
Only with use of you PC’s display scaling.
There is also a full screen icon if you look closely.
Hi Billy,
First thanks and you´re right.
Following for the ones who will have the same "problem":
I did expand it and saw nothing..
Playing with timebase and so on...nothing changed.
Then I add minimum and maximum....Aha...a negative voltage will be measured but I can´t see it...Couldn´t be so.
Finally I switched off channel 2 and then bingo...
Ch2 "covered" the negative spike of ch1...
But respect to the little 1104 for "finding" it.
Martin
Here is your screenshot:
With a careful look the ch1 neg going spike is quite visible.
Trace separation will help.
With ch1 active to the control ch1 will be atop ch2 allowing you to see it.
Another trick is to trigger on it and with trigger level adjustment you will see the full levels of where the spike is.
Change some display settings to enhance it and if not using measurements increase graticule brightness too. 15% is default which IMO for screenshots is a little too dim, I prefer ~40%.
At the end of the day, I could see it.
Where I was sitting and where the scope was, I couldn't see it like that, only when I deactivated the second channel.
That was all it was.
At the end of the day, I could see it.
Where I was sitting and where the scope was, I couldn't see it like that, only when I deactivated the second channel.
That was all it was.
Nods.....
Remember these are some of the most popular DSO's made and as such we have all manner of skill level in those that own them so can expand on others experiences for all to learn how good these are and display advice on how better to operate them.
Then everyone progresses.
On a recent road trip left one with a 70+ customer and after a phone chat with him a day or so back was absolutely shocked to see how deep he was already diving into it....and for a chap that had only ever had a low end CRO before.
They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks < rubbish !
I like this little puppy, none should go below it when looking for a (first) scope.
Me, I strongly need a bigger desk...
Thanks, I *finally* found that but the display + control panel is huge...no way to zoom out?
Bear in mind you can also VNC to the scope - it won't have the controls but you'll be able to resize the screen more accurately. You can use tightVNC or any VNC client.
I just ordered one of the 1104X-E models. My current oscilloscope is a DSO150, so I am hoping it will be slightly better then it.
The E model was only ~$US30 more then the U model. I assume the "upgrade" still works not that I am sure I would need it just yet. Been bitten before with buying something, then quickly outgrowing it, and ending up spending more then just going with something decent to begin with.
Yes that's it. I have had it for several years. You may not believe this. But it is not that good.
Yes that's it. I have had it for several years. You may not believe this. But it is not that good.
What do you mean? DSO150 is pretty much a toy. SDS1104X-E is real, professional instrument.. There is no comparison at all..
I was attempting humour. I probably should not give up my day job just yet.
I was attempting humour. I probably should not give up my day job just yet.
I got it 100% !
You will be very impressed with X-E capabilities.
Hi, I'm facing a few problems with the 1000X–E I2C...
btw have a question, why you connect ground twice from same scope at same points? i,e, if you connected 1 time probe, 2nd automatically grounded cause 4 channel share same PE. Just a newbie question. Technically it suppose to create ground loops.
Hi, I'm facing a few problems with the 1000X–E I2C...
btw have a question, why you connect ground twice from same scope at same points? i,e, if you connected 1 time probe, 2nd automatically grounded cause 4 channel share same PE. Just a newbie question. Technically it suppose to create ground loops.
Yes GND... when DC and AC peoples talk about P, E and N ... but jump to tens and hundreds of MHz world is very different.
If you work with DC, or audio frequencies situation is very different compared to signals what include 10's or 100's MHz frequency components. And remember example 1Hz or 1kHz square wave may have fast edges so they include high frequency components. With high frequencies even normal probe GND wire (10-15cm) is way too long. Example 10cm wire inductance is around 130nH. Its reactance is around 82 ohm @ 100MHz. But when you measure this wire with your DMM it display 0.oxx ohm. And 100MHz is not lot if we look today digital electronics signals rising or falling edges.
So, it depends what are you doing.
But also then there is other thing. Today every place (except in lab shielded and isolated "silent room") we have lot of EMI pollution. RF signals everywhere. Every wire is antenna (probe is also antenna). Look weak signal what is low freq but if your probing pick up all EMI / RF noise from environment you may see more noise than your signal under test.
rf-loop thanks for nice reply, but i did not speak about HF case (when folks use metal springs attached to probes to reduce ground path).
Just from the picture, when there are 2 probes and both are attached by the wire.. idk why attach 2nd wire if 1st is already ground to scope. And it's same ground point.. and the distance doesn't make an issues and freqs also guess. Just about that
You should still attach the ground at the DUT end of all probes. Coax cable is not like shielded audio cable and the outer conductor of the coax is doing much more than just providing shielding. It is the return path for the signal traveling through it. For audio frequency signals it's not going to make as much of a difference than it would be for some RF signal, but attaching all grounds is the right thing to do.
rf-loop thanks for nice reply, but i did not speak about HF case (when folks use metal springs attached to probes to reduce ground path).
Just from the picture, when there are 2 probes and both are attached by the wire.. idk why attach 2nd wire if 1st is already ground to scope. And it's same ground point.. and the distance doesn't make an issues and freqs also guess. Just about that
In many simple LF cases one GND is enough. My previous answer was related to when a simple use of one probe's GND wire is not enough and for situations where the probe's "long" GND wire is not suitable at all.
Often (but not always), when just watching slow "easy" signals on several channels, it is enough (limited acceptable with notes) if the one GND wire of one probe is connected.
But also as BillyO well said...
If not really know... best to connect least all probes GND. It is also a good way to get used to the correct common practices. This way the user can avoid some of the traps that are offered around every corner..
And for end; If people do not know what he/she are doing and what is what and how things go.. connecting every probe GND is right way. (but also avoid ground loops and think how GND currents flow in DUT and how they may affect...)
As we know there is no simple answers and more details we go and deeper and deeper all goes more and more complex and finally infinite complex if go enough deep to details....
RE notification when the complex trigger is triggered. Two things- first a double short beep would be distictive and not annoying. Second- possibly some alert/interrupt over the wi-fi-ethernet interface. Having a way to see the rare event can be really useful. Waiting at a static screen to see it (and it may be subtle) is very much no fun.
RE notification when the complex trigger is triggered. Two things- first a double short beep would be distictive and not annoying. Second- possibly some alert/interrupt over the wi-fi-ethernet interface. Having a way to see the rare event can be really useful. Waiting at a static screen to see it (and it may be subtle) is very much no fun.
I'm thinking just a defined beep different to those the scope normally makes as even a 1/2 to 1s is different from anything it currently emits.
There are other notification features already implemented by way of the logic level Trig Out/Pass/Fail rear BNC that we can use with a Pass/Fail mask.
Thanks for the feedback.
Cheaper USB WiFi dongle found to work reliably: Look for any device that uses the MediaTek MT7601 chipset. Plug n play, works great.
Can be found as low as $1.99 USD (shipped on Ali in their 3 for $6 section) to around $3.50 USD average total price shipped alone on AliExpress. Higher elsewhere, but Temu, eBay and Amazon all sell them too.
Nice benefit is that most have a short positional antenna built in for much better signal quality.
Screenshot below just shows some of the ones available from various sites including the standard packaging to look for if you are interested in trying one skipping the special TP-Link one.
Arrived this morning.
It was calibrated in January 2023. It is Dave's fault I bought it, he said get a 4 channel scope in 2023 over a 2 channel