Hi
I would appreciate a bit of help with the conversion of my new E4.
I get the following error when installing the FLIR Tools:
This product requires Microsoft Office 2007 or higher to be installed. The installation will now terminate.
0x80070643 – Der opstod en alvorlig fejl under installationen.
Why does it care about the Office version? (i have 2003)
I've tried with both v.5 downloaded from FLIR and the v4 that was linked to in the description, and it's the same error message.
Best regards
Soren
Ohhhh tomas123 I just managed to take a set of pictures for a pano that spit out a level span of 10460 - 31429. The script managed to crush it down far enough that it started to dither out all the detail again once ICE was done with it. Not a big deal but hey if I can find a way to break something - odds are I will.
Are you sure, that you are working with 16 bit images?
// Imagemagick
>convert -version
Version: ImageMagick 6.8.9-10 Q16 x64 2014-11-02 http://www.imagemagick.org
Copyright: Copyright (C) 1999-2014 ImageMagick Studio LLC
Features: DPC Modules OpenMP
Delegates: bzlib cairo freetype jbig jng jp2 jpeg lcms lqr pangocairo png ps rsvg tiff webp xml zlib
// converted Flir images (level streteched)
>identify RAW3413.png
RAW3413.png PNG 640x480 640x480+0+0 16-bit sRGB 555KB 0.000u 0:00.009
// ICE stitched panorama
>identify panoraw.png
panoraw.png PNG 562x1277 562x1277+0+0 16-bit sRGB 307KB 0.000u 0:00.001
Yup:
Version: ImageMagick 6.9.0-8 Q16 x64 2015-02-21
http://www.imagemagick.orgraw0528.png PNG 320x240 320x240+0+0 16-bit sRGB 99.3KB 0.000u 0:00.000
panoraw.png PNG 471x627 471x627+0+0 16-bit sRGB 66.5KB 0.000u 0:00.000
If I clip out the heaters it does not crush it out so much. Witch is why I think it comes back to skewing the range to high and causing ICE to band out.
you use a very aggressive palette - I can't see the quality of stitching
I just managed to take a set of pictures for a pano that spit out a level span of 10460 - 31429.
If I clip out the heaters it does not crush it out so much.
some ideas:
(1) sometimes I also clipped out some hot spots (lamps)
i.e.
convert flirraw.png -level 16000,30000 tilexy.png
-> convert flirraw.png -level 16000,20000 tilexy.png
but you lost the informations
(2) untested: change (+/-)gamma like (+/-)level and move the lamps in a nonlinear range
(a) convert raw.png
-level 13000,
30000 -gamma 3 tilexy.png
(b) stitch tiles with ICE version 2
(c) convert pano.png
+level 13000,30000
+gamma 3 ready.png
(3) use old ICE
a sample
>exiftool -b -RawThermalImage FLIR0015.jpg > 1.png
>convert -define png:swap-bytes=on 1.png 2.png
>identify -verbose 2.png
Gray:
min: 12212 (0.186343)
max: 15611 (0.238209)
max value is
15610, but we stretch for demonstartion the level between 12212,30000
>convert 2.png -level 12212,[b]30000[/b] 3A.png
here as jpg, some browser won't show correct grayscale in 16 bit png and now the same image with a additional gamma correction
really better for ICE
>convert 2.png -level 12212,30000 -gamma 3 3B.png
after stitching roll back to old values with +
>convert pano.png +level 12212,30000 +gamma 3 ready.png
Tomas123,
Since sending you a note I've been working on these scripts and have started getting really good results! I'll try to post a sample at some point.
Have you been able to stitch any panorama's with MSX?
you use a very aggressive palette - I can't see the quality of stitching
Was done to show the banding more clearly - not much of a fan of it myself.
some ideas:
(1) sometimes I also clipped out some hot spots (lamps)
i.e.
convert flirraw.png -level 16000,30000 tilexy.png
-> convert flirraw.png -level 16000,20000 tilexy.png
but you lost the informations
(2) untested: change (+/-)gamma like (+/-)level and move the lamps in a nonlinear range
(a) convert raw.png -level 13000,30000 -gamma 3 tilexy.png
(b) stitch tiles with ICE version 2
(c) convert pano.png +level 13000,30000 +gamma 3 ready.png
(3) use old ICE
(1) That's a case by case thing - nice to have as an option - don't think the loss of info is that big of a deal - once it's been pano'ed I would not rely on it for accuracy anymore anyway.
(2) Sharp idea to use a gamma shift - I will give it a spin and see what happens!
(3) I keep a few spare VM's around just for reasons like this.
ciao, don't want to bother this tech discussion, just to let you know we offer a 10% discount on FLIR E4 for purchasing during this week end it is 10% OFF and free shipping over Europe.
code via PM
I can delete the message if not appropriate.
hope it helps.
Discounts are always welcome in this thread. Thanks for posting this news.
Aurora
This is just a note for people who have changed the focus on their cameras. I've taken images with the sun visible in the scene by accident before and never seen any ghosting from it (but I never intentionally looked at the sun with the camera on purpose. Today I was talking to someone with the camera resting back on my shoulder pointing at the sky. When I looked back down at it I could see a little erratically shaped bright colored looking line running across the image in the shape of the path the sun had taken across the image. I freaked out thinking I had damaged the sensor. After a minute or so the line faded away (I'm assuming the spot it was focused on returned to ambient temp). The camera automatically calibrates it out almost right away which decreases it's visibility greatly, but I could still see it. After the sensor completely cooled down it appears to be gone and scrutinizing the image where the line was doesn't seem to show any lasting damage that is being compensated for by the camera's software. I'm not sure how susceptible these cameras are to damage from the sun, but when you play with the focus and start to focus the camera more to the infinity end of the spectrum I would be much more wary of the sensor catching a glimpse of the sun from now on because the point when focused to infinity the point of light is much more concentrated on the sensor now than it was from the factory. I will also make sure the shutter is in place before I set it down outside than I was before.
I did find this from FLIR, but I'm not sure whether it applies to the E4 or these cameras that were intended for surveillance use where prolonged exposure to the sun could result by accident.
http://www.timetech.co.za/FLIR%20%20Are%20thermal%20cameras%20damaged%20by%20sun.pdf
I have seen ghosting after pointing my E4+ at a nice and hot campfire and it's embers. It went away on it's own after a few min.
All of FLIRs current Vox ameras are Sun Safe. That includes the E4.
Aurora
Hi! Im from sweden so sorry for my bad english
I have bought a Flir E4 and it comes with 1,2l and 2.3.0
I have tried the resolution hack but i got stuck.
When i try to find my E4 on "Ipconfig" i cant find anything :/
Im using windows 8.1, is that the problem?
And is there a video on 2.3.0 hack on youtube? I couldnt find it anywhere.
Hi! Im from sweden so sorry for my bad english
I have bought a Flir E4 and it comes with 1,2l and 2.3.0
I have tried the resolution hack but i got stuck.
When i try to find my E4 on "Ipconfig" i cant find anything :/
Im using windows 8.1, is that the problem?
And is there a video on 2.3.0 hack on youtube? I couldnt find it anywhere.
I believe windows 8 has issues when doing the hack, try a win7 machine.
All of FLIRs current Vox ameras are Sun Safe. That includes the E4.
Aurora
Excellent, hoping to grab some images of the eclipse.
sorry Orby, the invers operation of -gamma ist not +gamma
see
http://www.imagemagick.org/script/command-line-options.php#gammacorrect is the invers value
a sample
first check max/min values of the
16 bit image
> identify -verbose e4.png
Image: e4.png
Format: PNG (Portable Network Graphics)
Type: Grayscale
Depth: 16-bit
Gray:
min: 22992 (0.350835)
max: 42019 (0.641169)
and stretch the level
> convert e4.png -level 22992,42019 -level 3 1.png
//now stitch 1.png with ICE
...
//the revers steps
> convert 1.png -level 0.33333 +level 22992,42019 2.png
compare the e4.png with 2.png (identical)
PS: please post a grayscale panorama image (there are many hard color steps in your image)
sorry Orby, the invers operation of -gamma ist not +gamma
see http://www.imagemagick.org/script/command-line-options.php#gamma
correct is the invers value
a sample
>convert e4.png -level 22992,42019 -level 3 1.png
//now stitch 1.png with ICE
...
//the revers steps
>convert 1.png -level 0.33333 +level 22992,42019 2.png
compare the e4.png with 2.png (identical)
PS: please post a grayscale panorama image (there are many hard color steps in your image)
Hmmm reading the notes I think it should it be -gamma 3 to boost and process then -gamma .33333 to return it. I think you may have level in their twice by mistake. I will play more tonight and post results.
I purchased a FLIR E4-B by accident. Will the hack still work for that model? The only thing different with the E4-B is the temperature range is not as high as the standard E series. I'm assuming the hack will work for this model but I'd like to verify it. Thanks.
I purchased a FLIR E4-B by accident. Will the hack still work for that model? The only thing different with the E4-B is the temperature range is not as high as the standard E series. I'm assuming the hack will work for this model but I'd like to verify it. Thanks.
I am interested to know as well, and if you need any help with the process I'd be more than happy to help for my own/EEVBlogs education
There is going to be a flash sale at zoro.com tomorrow. Probably 20 or 25% off. Check out the main page starting at midnight.
I purchased a FLIR E4-B by accident. Will the hack still work for that model? The only thing different with the E4-B is the temperature range is not as high as the standard E series. I'm assuming the hack will work for this model but I'd like to verify it. Thanks.
I hope that I'm wrong, but the temperature range seems close to that of the Flir Lepton sensor, (which would be a very bad thing).
I purchased a FLIR E4-B by accident. Will the hack still work for that model? The only thing different with the E4-B is the temperature range is not as high as the standard E series. I'm assuming the hack will work for this model but I'd like to verify it. Thanks.
I hope that I'm wrong, but the temperature range seems close to that of the Flir Lepton sensor, (which would be a very bad thing).
Pretty sure hardware is the same, could be that it's calibrated over a more limited range.
Does anybody know if there is a (3D Printable) lensholder for the FLIR Exx series for a macro lens like for the E4. Since the FLIR Exx has a built-in lens attachment it should be easy to create one and install it. If anybody knows just let me know.