No...
But what you think that noise is doing?
.caps.config.image.targetNoise.targetNoiseMk
There I have "measure tool" "line" with "graph", no other measurements.
Based on prior discussions it is believed that the noise setting is to control camera sensitivity, perhaps to set the desired figure of sensitivity in the camera specification.
The explanation is simple: it's intentional worsening of the picture quality to allow a gradient between different models!
So one shall pay 5-6k extra to get the resolution enabled and the artificial noise turned down or removed....
Just set it to zero for best performance - it's just a completely evil function with no benefit whatsoever for the user.
Regarding the noise generator...... IIRC even the top of the Exx range still has the noise generator working but at a very low level (5?). There were some theories that some noise was required for image processing but I know nothing of that technique. I have left mine set to 5 as in the top spec Exx camera.
Aurora
[/qOn mine I had to disconnect and hard reboot for the change to show up.... which meant I had to use the permanent file. I had to use a win 8 PC. After the Hard reboot I moved to a win XP PC)quote]
MY FIRST POST:
Hi my first post, I was looking for the Flir TG165 on the web and end here... fine forum anyway, 24 years ago I worked at the Tektronix factory
in the Netherlands adjusting scopes...
This topic is a long read btw, here is my question, to upgrade a Flir E4 tic do I realy need a Win 8 and maybe a Win XP PC? I have only a Win 7 pro PC...
Thanks, G. van der Veen
The FLIR E4 OEM charger is rated at a higher current than the everyday phone chargers. This is to enable faster charging at up to 2A rather than the more common phone rate of up to 800mA.
I bought some high current car chargers that were designed for a tablet as they tend to have higher rated chargers. I think mine were 2.5A.
Most devices that can fast charge at higher currents will charge at a slower rate if a phone charger is used, but there is the risk of overloading the charger and it getting very hot. Much depends upon the charger design. As you state, avoid cheap car converters as they can be risky. I personally would not wish to wreck my E4 internal charge management by using a charger that suddenly goes series short and applies >12V to the 5V input.
HOWEVER, the E4 is permitted to take a charge from a standard 500mA USB port without harm to the E4 or USB supply. Some charge management IC's can detect when they have reached the maximum current draw (voltage drop detection ?) and will work fine below that level.
I decided to play safe and use a correctly rated car charger. I recommend that you hunt down a reputable brand tablet charger that is rated the same of higher than the FLIR OEM unit. You are then safe and will get the E4 charged in the fastest possible time.
Aurora
[...] to upgrade a Flir E4 tic do I realy need a Win 8 and maybe a Win XP PC? I have only a Win 7 pro PC... [...]
No...
But what you think that noise is doing?
.caps.config.image.targetNoise.targetNoiseMk
There I have "measure tool" "line" with "graph", no other measurements.
.......
And introduction to my next menu upgrade for advanced users
who have needs for better measurement tools.
After a hour or so reading this topic, it is not always "easy" to move the E4 to a E8! are there any Dutch readers who have been successful?
Sometimes its handy to write in your own language.
Image : where I live...
Garrett
As my reply #6302 suggests, it does work.
It's interesting that firmware version 1.22.0 is still online: http://cdn.cloud.flir.se/swdownload/assets/cameradownload/flir_ex_pn639_v1.22.0_update_pack.zip
Additional information that i have not seen yet in this thread:
When camera is in RNDIS permanent mode, you can FTP to it even if it is turned off but is connected to USB. However the login is not flir/3vlig. The login credentials in this case are:
user: anonymous
psw: NcFTP@
Once connected (i use WinSCP) you can browse the filesystem, make a backup of the Flash, transfer files 2-way. This may also help if you bricked your camera, if you know which files you want to replace.
Do not power the camera on, just plug the usb cable in to use this login.
It should be possible to even reflash the firmware in this mode (using FLIRInstallNet.exe) if the camera is bricked.
EDIT:
Kids don't try it at home. You have to know what you are doing.
If someone had the files for the firmware "upgrade" to go from 1.11/1.12 to 1.8 (or 1.9 what ever it was) could one not do this and "upgrade" a 2.3.0 to the older firmware?
Here is a free tip for E4 users. I think E4 has a potential design problem with the usb connector (I guess same sh!t with other Ex models). The cap that covers the connector is made from stiff rubber, so with the cap cover opened and USB cable attached, the cap pushes quite hard on the USB cable tale. I think this eventually may damage the microUSB connector on the camera. Until recently I used a piece of conductive foam stuck between the camera case and the rubber cap, as shown in the left screenshot. Now I bought a right angle USB cable and the problem was eliminated. It is also more convenient to have the cable running to the side rather than up from the camera - see the right screenshot.