See the attached tgz,....
Thnx for your *nix aware hack but your attachment (e4_autohack.tgz.zip) is empty (0 byte)
# check for yourself that I'm not making stuff up.
rls .image.flow.maps.combGainDeadMap.pixReplace
# show dead pixels
rset .image.flow.maps.combGainDeadMap.pixReplace false
# hide dead pixels again (default)
rset .image.flow.maps.combGainDeadMap.pixReplace true
How do I run these commands? I am trying to figure out how many dead pixels are in my E4, but I haven't figured out the debug stuff yet
# check for yourself that I'm not making stuff up.
rls .image.flow.maps.combGainDeadMap.pixReplace
# show dead pixels
rset .image.flow.maps.combGainDeadMap.pixReplace false
# hide dead pixels again (default)
rset .image.flow.maps.combGainDeadMap.pixReplace true
How do I run these commands? I am trying to figure out how many dead pixels are in my E4, but I haven't figured out the debug stuff yet
Enable RNDIS as per usual instructions
Make telnet connection to 192.168.0.2
Enter commands at prompt
Okay, quickly made 2 fif's that you can apply in the same way as the E8 hack (through FlirInstallNet). Unzip the attachment once to get the fif's.
My E4 arrived today: already upgraded to E8+!!!
Serial: 639063XX
Calibration Date: 2013-11-07
Firmware: 1.19.8
hello,
what about the sensors calibration? is it lost with the E8 upgrade?
thanks to all with the flir thing
I just called my supplier.
Last Friday they ordered my camera directly from Flir.
I hope this is still easy hackable.
Is there evidence that the cameras are downgradable?
I just called my supplier.
Last Friday they ordered my camera directly from Flir.
I hope this is still easy hackable.
Is there evidence that the cameras are downgradable?
So far there is no evidence (only second-hand hearsay) of new firmware that is "unhackable", so worrying about downgradable firmware seems premature.
Hello,
Do you know how to change center spot size ( for example in HOT/COLD/AVR mode ). Will be possible to have this mode on full screen or little bit bigger size?
Thank you for your help.
Thanks mrfibble, works great!
Uhh uh - very bad news!!!!!
until now I was silently reading here. But now I need to post: I just got the feedback from a friend. He purchased an E5 in early October but as his display was showing two vertical stripes at the left and right side of the screen, his unit was sent back for repair.
He got it back yesterday afternoon ...... with installed firmware 1.20.3
He tried until now: hack is NOT working anymore!!!
No secret menu anymore, installation of E8.cfg is not enhancing resolution, serial interface (the one behind the front cover) also not working.
He had to leave now as he is travelling but will post details by himself at the weekend for seeking any advice.
Aaargh - I already ordered mine a week ago but my supplier had no stock and waits for delivery. If all new units now are having a new fw too, I will need at least two bottles of scotch at once and another one each time when I see my E4 with crappy 80x60 pixel. Oh Lord, why didn't I buy it earlier, why why why? Fu**
Any advise? Is there any supplier who still got stock now? I better should cancel my order then and purchase there quickly.
Anybody want to sell a used one? Please PM me.
With one post, a week ago, and a quick edit of who knows what, we're left to assume this was Flir trying to dissuade folks from buying an E4/8. Instead, this one post did more to promote sales of E4 than any advertising could have. Would be curious if the IP of this poster resolves to Sweden.
Anyway, I exhanged the battery_frame.bmp and flash_graybackground.bmp with much darker versions now. Hope this helps.
At least the ghost image of the battery symbol has nearly disappeared now...
Please post your modified files?
I tried the "rset .power.settings.screenSaverEnable true" setting and it had no effect.
I found that if you power off the unit, take out the battery so it's really off, then plug in the battery and connect the charger without powering it on - that it wont show the charging screen - but I don't know if it's actually charging then.
Also found something that I don't know if anyone else has figured out - if you power it off and it's on the charging screen - if you press left and right at the same time you get a some charging stats:
Please post your modified files?
I attached them, but it's not rocket science and only a first go. At first look it seems dark enough though to avoid that burn in effect.
To remove the burn in effect faster, it would be probably better to invert the image and use it for some time.
Also found something that I don't know if anyone else has figured out - if you power it off and it's on the charging screen - if you press left and right at the same time you get a some charging stats:
Interesting. At least I didn't know. Thanks for the info.
Please post your modified files?
I attached them, but it's not rocket science and only a first go. At first look it seems dark enough though to avoid that burn in effect.
To remove the burn in effect faster, it would be probably better to invert the image and use it for some time.
Are you worried about the LCD being damaged, or do you just not like seeing the image? LCDs don't really have burn-in, so I think what's happening is that the backlight eventually goes off, and you see the dim charging image by reflected light. Completely harmless.
Are you worried about the LCD being damaged, or do you just not like seeing the image? LCDs don't really have burn-in, so I think what's happening is that the backlight eventually goes off, and you see the dim charging image by reflected light. Completely harmless.
That's my opinion also. It doesn't make sense to drain the battery with a backlight if you are trying to charge the thing. The light turns off after a few minutes, but the device stays on as to remain reactive. I for one like being abo to hit a button at any time to quickly turn the light back on and see how much its charged.
I'd love to get an external battery charger for it instead of using that frighteningly fragile micro usb connector; however, those greedy bastards at FLIR set a MSP of $125 on the damn thing. I guess it's fortunate that I won't be needing to charge it too often
First of all possible matrices that contain E4 with more BAD Pixel
The better models are going to E5 ... E8 (quality)
How do they send me E4 unsupportable software hack, no problem in Poland is the law that the goods purchased via the Internet, you can return to the supplier
and so no problem.
It will get people from the FLIR camera calibration of this week and last week, please report what is the version of the software.
Are you worried about the LCD being damaged, or do you just not like seeing the image? LCDs don't really have burn-in, so I think what's happening is that the backlight eventually goes off, and you see the dim charging image by reflected light. Completely harmless.
This is not only wrong but also shows that you didn't read my posts.
LCDs do suffer from burn-in, although this effect varies a lot for different types and models. Unfortunately, the (or at least my) E4's display is very, very prone to burn-in, so as described in my post, a single load cycle of a few hours led to an inverted version of the battery symbol being clearly visible all the time during normal operation. This ghost image was visible for hours after just a single load cycle. So I don't really want to risk a permanent burn-in just because of a stupid color/contrast choice for the loading symbol.
Received my E4 from Omega USA today. Supposedly the last one in stock as of yesterday according to the Omega sales guy, but I checked their site today and it still lists one in stock. The box had been opened and re-sealed by Omega, so this must have been an RMA return. Wonder why...
Paid $995
Firmware version is 1.18.8
Serial number 63903xxx
Calibration site Estonia
Oct 1, 2013
Won't have a chance to try the resolution upgrade until later today.
Apparantly we have at work a hackerspace with 3D printer and the likes so I took the opportunity and printed the lens.stl focus tool posted here (thanks!). It works as advertised and I could focus for a distance of 2-3 inches. More than enough to inspect PCBs.
When I re-focus it to the 'normal' operation (e.g. factory setting), what object distance should I use? I would think that shorter than infinity will provide better range.
The tool inserted into the camera.
The tool upside down on top the the camera. You can see the portion that engaged the lens holder.
A close up of the tip. When tried to upload the stl file to an online 3D service I got an error message. As you can see there are gaps and irregularities in the printed part. Am not sure why. Might be a discontinuity in the 3D model.
Are you worried about the LCD being damaged, or do you just not like seeing the image? LCDs don't really have burn-in, so I think what's happening is that the backlight eventually goes off, and you see the dim charging image by reflected light. Completely harmless.
This is not only wrong but also shows that you didn't read my posts. LCDs do suffer from burn-in, although this effect varies a lot for different types and models. Unfortunately, the (or at least my) E4's display is very, very prone to burn-in, so as described in my post, a single load cycle of a few hours led to an inverted version of the battery symbol being clearly visible all the time during normal operation. This ghost image was visible for hours after just a single load cycle. So I don't really want to risk a permanent burn-in just because of a stupid color/contrast choice for the loading symbol.
Oops, I think I did read them, but forgot the details. Anyway, I don't see this behavior at all on my unit, so maybe you have a bad LCD? (Or I have an extra good one.) Has anyone else seen this persistent ghost?
US buyers: which
free gift did you pick? I was thinking of the borescope, but the reviews aren't so great.
Also, don't forget to register for the extended warranty:
PRODUCT REGISTRATION. To qualify for FLIR’s 2-5-10 Limited
Warranty, Purchaser must fully register the Qualifying Product
directly with FLIR at www.flir.com WITHIN SIXTY (60) DAYS
of the date the Qualifying Product was purchased by the first
retail customer (the “Purchase Date”). QUALIFYING PRODUCTS
THAT ARE NOT REGISTERED ON-LINE WITHIN SIXTY (60) DAYS
OF THE PURCHASE DATE WILL HAVE A LIMITED ONE (1) YEAR
WARRANTY FROM THE ORIGINAL DATE OF PURCHASE.
(I don't think they can enforce that in most states, but who needs the hassle.)
Are you worried about the LCD being damaged, or do you just not like seeing the image? LCDs don't really have burn-in, so I think what's happening is that the backlight eventually goes off, and you see the dim charging image by reflected light. Completely harmless.
This is not only wrong but also shows that you didn't read my posts. LCDs do suffer from burn-in, although this effect varies a lot for different types and models. Unfortunately, the (or at least my) E4's display is very, very prone to burn-in, so as described in my post, a single load cycle of a few hours led to an inverted version of the battery symbol being clearly visible all the time during normal operation. This ghost image was visible for hours after just a single load cycle. So I don't really want to risk a permanent burn-in just because of a stupid color/contrast choice for the loading symbol.
Oops, I think I did read them, but forgot the details. Anyway, I don't see this behavior at all on my unit, so maybe you have a bad LCD? (Or I have an extra good one.) Has anyone else seen this persistent ghost?
This effect may be temparature dependant
(I don't think they can enforce that in most states, but who needs the hassle.)
To which the natural response is:
1 - marketing departments that try certain ploys to get customer information need to fucking die
2 - I'd like to see them try (to refuse warranty outside of the law)
PS: That said, consumer protection in the EU is less crap compared to the US.