If it works and the corrosion didn't do any real damage I'd say quit whining or else we'll have to buy you some cheese for your private wine and cheese party.
One small screen. Two decent eyes.
Little dilemma here. MFJ-259 arrived. Bit dirty and bashed up as expected as these are used in the field but there’s sign the batteries have leaked before. It was cleaned out properly but there’s traces of corrosion on the battery box and the board has been washed clearly.
Sooo... quit whining and just use it as it works fine. Or talk to seller?
I find that the dead-sexy 2-in-1 station very confusing, does it come with a iron handle or not?, tip? and what about the desoldering tool? All I can see is the station and the hot air gun with 4 nozzles. The station has a button marked vacuum but where the feck is the suction pump??
I really enjoy using my T12 even if its not made by KSGER but by Quicko and has only 4 pins as opposed to the 5 on the KSGER, it has stepped up to the plate on every occasion, even when called upon to solder onto some large ground planes which really wick the heat away, it makes a first class joint every time. I only have the 9501 handle (blue) as the one that DefPom has, so which handle are you referring to when you say that does he know he already has the best handle?? I find that the 9501 handle is perfectly deigned to provide the right grip and balance to give good control over the tip. What I have had a few problems with however are some of their tips, the contact rings cab cause problems as they tend to come undone after a few insertions (makes note to order some more) which makes then unusable then and thrown away Perhaps the genuine Hakko ones are better, but in can you get the genuine ones from that don't cost an and a leg?
Defpom shows two alloy handles at about 2:00; one with a blue foam grip they sent with the review station, and another alloy handle that he has connected to another station. It is the other one with the silicone grip that KSGER and Banggood refer to as the "new" handle; though it looks to me from the listings like both are the same alloy extrusion with foam or silicone grip.
[EDIT] You can see clearly what I'm talking about re: the really long offset of the tip compared to grip as well. Ehhhhhh... [/EDIT]
He was excited about the foam grip; but speaking as someone who has done production soldering, I'll say with conviction that foam grips blow vs silicone. Especially when they get a few months old and full of oils from your fingertips; they can get downright nasty and even smell.
Looks to me like that's not a button, but rather a threaded hole for a bulkhead vacuum connector. I'd say so you can install a vacuum pump inside if you want to use a desoldering handle.
mnem
*Back to the grind*
Not the first time I've had a fluke handle get broken in shipment. But super glue doesn't work on the type of plastic Fluke uses. Has to be epoxy.How much 'flesh' do you have there? How about the 'hot embedded wire' technique?
Then measuring a capacitor...
Does inductors as well and is good for setting up matching networks and measuring filter parameters. Also has a built in frequency counter! It's an oversized swiss army knife.
Ate 10x AA batteries though
Not the first time I've had a fluke handle get broken in shipment. But super glue doesn't work on the type of plastic Fluke uses. Has to be epoxy.How much 'flesh' do you have there? How about the 'hot embedded wire' technique?As I mentioned earlier, we are all used to superglue bonding in seconds and I had 2 HP3466A meters that arrived with broken handles and also a Rapid analog oscilloscope and even after holding the broken pieces together for many minutes the superglue did not bond on any of them. However, gluing them again with superglue, and hastily clamping the pieces together and leaving for 24 hours resulted in a very strong bond that even 1 year later was still holding good and I was able to carry the scope and meters around using the handles and using them as tilting bails without a single moments doubt about it holding up OK.
I seriously would give a try, what's the worst that could happen, it not sticking. If that happens peel the glue off and try epoxy or other means, but you might just be surprised by the resultant bond like I was.
Not the first time I've had a fluke handle get broken in shipment. But super glue doesn't work on the type of plastic Fluke uses. Has to be epoxy.How much 'flesh' do you have there? How about the 'hot embedded wire' technique?As I mentioned earlier, we are all used to superglue bonding in seconds and I had 2 HP3466A meters that arrived with broken handles and also a Rapid analog oscilloscope and even after holding the broken pieces together for many minutes the superglue did not bond on any of them. However, gluing them again with superglue, and hastily clamping the pieces together and leaving for 24 hours resulted in a very strong bond that even 1 year later was still holding good and I was able to carry the scope and meters around using the handles and using them as tilting bails without a single moments doubt about it holding up OK.
I seriously would give a try, what's the worst that could happen, it not sticking. If that happens peel the glue off and try epoxy or other means, but you might just be surprised by the resultant bond like I was.
The 40mhz TTI 4ch function gen arrived. So glad it came in one piece from the west coast. I purchased it knowing it was broken, but it turned out the seller plugged in unit into 115v instead of 230v, which was labeled on back. Luckily this TTI unit has a reconfigurable transformer and a manual with details on how to change it to 115v. Rewired it and the display turns on fine. It does look like the bios battery has died so I'll need to replace it. It is a battery tab unit, so I think I'm going to solder in a 2032 holder instead of a battery tab.
I think this is a pretty sold score. Pretty stoked.
If this is not a lesson to just RTFM, I don't know what is.
Spent the afternoon checking it's overall calibration and things are not going well. As shown yesterday on the 20V range it's dead nuts. Not so on the mV range. Significantly out of spec. Attempts to bring it into spec cause the upper ranges to go out of spec. There's quite a bit of interaction between ranges and apparently something has gone fubar. Probably in some divider circuit. So it needs some troubleshooting. And I have the dead 8800A for parts if needed. Work on it more tomorrow.
Yes, I think that glue is the equivalent to the one I used which can be found here http://www.pattex-adhesives.com.au/en/products/100-percent-line/100percent-repair-gel.html and on the step by step instructions it does say that maximum strength is reached after 24hrs. It also states that the parts need to be clamped together, which is something that I did not know before as I just opened the packet and threw away the instructions, just a man does.
Good score, I almost snagged one of those a few months back but the display was very poor, sort of weak to the point where it would be unreadable at times unless you viewed it from an odd angle and figured that it would be expensive to fix. I really should have checked with TTi directly for the cost of a new LCD but by the time I decided to do that, it had been snapped up.
Yes, I think that glue is the equivalent to the one I used which can be found here http://www.pattex-adhesives.com.au/en/products/100-percent-line/100percent-repair-gel.html and on the step by step instructions it does say that maximum strength is reached after 24hrs. It also states that the parts need to be clamped together, which is something that I did not know before as I just opened the packet and threw away the instructions, just a man does.
Gel or high viscosity CA's other than their ability to gap fill and improve the interface bond generally won't key into the plastics and can just float on top without pressure being applied to the attempted joint. The Plastic-Fuse has a fairly high percentage of Acrylic in solution with the CA and the Repair-Gel has 10% of something I would rather not go near definitely glove up and use in a well ventilated area
Part of the issue is that PolyPropylene for example is very resistant to solvent chemical attack and also by definition solvent or chemical welding.
The 40mhz TTI TGA1244 4ch function gen arrived. So glad it came in one piece from the west coast. I purchased it knowing it was broken, but it turned out the seller plugged in unit into 115v instead of 230v, which was labeled on back. Luckily this TTI unit has a reconfigurable transformer and a manual with details on how to change it to 115v. Rewired it and the display turns on fine. It does look like the bios battery has died so I'll need to replace it. It is a battery tab unit, so I think I'm going to solder in a 2032 holder instead of a battery tab.
I think this is a pretty sold score. Pretty stoked.
Defpom shows two alloy handles at about 2:00; one with a blue foam grip they sent with the review station, and another alloy handle that he has connected to another station. It is the other one with the silicone grip that KSGER and Banggood refer to as the "new" handle; though it looks to me from the listings like both are the same alloy extrusion with foam or silicone grip.
[EDIT] You can see clearly what I'm talking about re: the really long offset of the tip compared to grip as well. Ehhhhhh... [/EDIT]
He was excited about the foam grip; but speaking as someone who has done production soldering, I'll say with conviction that foam grips blow vs silicone. Especially when they get a few months old and full of oils from your fingertips; they can get downright nasty and even smell.
Looks to me like that's not a button, but rather a threaded hole for a bulkhead vacuum connector. I'd say so you can install a vacuum pump inside if you want to use a desoldering handle.
mnem
*Back to the grind*That would bug the feck out of me as they do not list anything remotely suitable to act as a vacuum pump to allow it to be used as desoldering station. As you know, desoldering stations usually have a switch on the handle to switch the pump on and off when required, once the solder has been liquified, otherwise the air being sucked into the nozzle tends to cool the tip down and is counterproductive to job in hand, Equally there is no air vent in the enclosure for the expelled air to escape from.
Jeebus. I just spent over $100 on Pokemon tonight.
2 Pre-release tournament entries, and digging through the rares to finish up a fire deck build. Cardboard crack indeed.
mnem
For that kind of money, I should be getting a hummer from Pikachu...