What the heck.....one more. I consider this my last "fast car". 1993 Chevy Cavalier Z24. Don't laugh mnem....it really would scoot. Why? Well, most Chevy Cavaliers were 4 banger/automatic slow pokes. Not the Z24 option. 3.1 liter V-6 with a Getrag 5 speed stick. Chirp the Goodyear Eagles in 1st and 2nd gear with almost no effort. That car surprised a lot of people....especially the ricer boys with their Civics and Accords.
Oklay... time for my own "dirty little secret" grandma's grocery getter: My "Stock sleeper" for a while was a '88 5-speed T-Bird Turbo Coupe. I bought it by accident at auction with a "blown" motor that turned out to be a clogged cat; it was actually fun to drive stock out of the box. With OE intercooler, chipped EEC-IV and manual boost control, it could generate 5lbs boost at idle and would still meter correctly at 26lbs.
Stock exhaust on the SC was 3" all the way back to a cat that, I kid you not, was as big as a fucking spare tire with a muffler that was bigger.
It was fun to go hunting Mustangs in that thing... all you could hear was the rushing air of the exhaust as it went by; even the turbo spooling up wasn't audible until it hit around 12-14lbs boost.
mnem
"In order to become old and wise, you must first survive being young and foolish."
Nice! That brings up a question...on my 432A (which also came with a thermistor!) the physical zero screw seems to have either fallen out or gotten jammed inside. I can still zero it by sticking a flat screwdriver in there, but I'm wondering if it can be fixed by tearing into it and removing the meter movement?
This is getting too common for my liking, as I've had two recently where the front half of the zero set screw has fallen out, if it was complete in the sellers pictures have a good look through the box & packaging, hopefully you will find the other half as I did.
Of course if they had been packed properly I don't think they would have fallen off, one of them the mains plug was resting on the front panel and the other packed in too small a box.
I did repair one a long time ago and as I didn't have the missing bit or a meter front of the same design I had to rob it from another meter, it was very fiddly to glue back in place so that it still moved.
David
So far I'm supper happy with the Explorer ST, its twin turbo 3L V6 makes 400HP and 415lb-ft torque, AWD with rear wheel drive primary. First, its amazing how quite it drives. Secondly, stand on the go peddle and it will surprise you. I've not tested this myself, but reviewers are testing 0-60 in under 5 seconds and 1/4 mile times around 13.4 sec and factory speed limiter set at 143 mph, that's not bad for a stock production 5,000lb SUV.
Now to make this TEA related... Think of all the cool gear I can haul back home from a Ham Fest and do so quickly
Nice! That brings up a question...on my 432A (which also came with a thermistor!) the physical zero screw seems to have either fallen out or gotten jammed inside. I can still zero it by sticking a flat screwdriver in there, but I'm wondering if it can be fixed by tearing into it and removing the meter movement?
This is getting too common for my liking, as I've had two recently where the front half of the zero set screw has fallen out, if it was complete in the sellers pictures have a good look through the box & packaging, hopefully you will find the other half as I did.
Of course if they had been packed properly I don't think they would have fallen off, one of them the mains plug was resting on the front panel and the other packed in too small a box.
I did repair one a long time ago and as I didn't have the missing bit or a meter front of the same design I had to rob it from another meter, it was very fiddly to glue back in place so that it still moved.
David
Unfortunately it was missing in the seller's pics as well.
Even as a former 110 defender driver, I really don't know why most of you guys drive what you do. 1.0L here, 3 cylinders, 68 horses, does 60+ mpg, all safety features such as ESC/curtain airbags etc. When you step on the pedal it goes eventually but most of the time it's either rammed in traffic or driving in a straight line
Plenty of room for hamfest gear. Yep fits:
Also fits:
Half of Ikea fits too, although I was shitting myself slightly when I got the trolley to the car
So far I'm supper happy with the Explorer ST, its twin turbo 3L V6 makes 400HP and 415lb-ft torque, AWD with rear wheel drive primary. First, its amazing how quite it drives. Secondly, stand on the go peddle and it will surprise you. I've not tested this myself, but reviewers are testing 0-60 in under 5 seconds and 1/4 mile times around 13.4 sec and factory speed limiter set at 143 mph, that's not bad for a stock production 5,000lb SUV.
Now to make this TEA related... Think of all the cool gear I can haul back home from a Ham Fest and do so quickly
My 2017 Explorer is front wheel drive primary. When I switch the dash to the graphic that shows power to the wheels it almost always is mostly on the front wheels unless you accellerate hard or it thinks you need AWD.
I was kind of wondering why they switched to front wheel drive, then back to rear wheel drive with the 2020 model.
I think the answer is that you can't effectively use 400 HP on a front wheel drive SUV.
I think the answer is that you can't effectively use 400 HP on a front wheel drive SUV.
Better towing ratings and torque steer is a bad thing.
Received that Type 114 today. It is in basically new condition. For the price? An absolute steal and a big upgrade over my homemade 555 timer based pulse generator.
Wow....that Type 114 is clean!
Beauteous, 0culus.
I have an HP pulse generator buried in the monstrous queue that I'll get to some day. I hope.
-Pat
Even as a former 110 defender driver, I really don't know why most of you guys drive what you do. 1.0L here, 3 cylinders, 68 horses, does 60+ mpg, all safety features such as ESC/curtain airbags etc. When you step on the pedal it goes eventually but most of the time it's either rammed in traffic or driving in a straight line
Plenty of room for hamfest gear. Yep fits:
Also fits:
Half of Ikea fits too, although I was shitting myself slightly when I got the trolley to the car
Yep, I agree with you. If I was on my own, I think I'd go for something like that instead my huge car, but seeing as my sons, all 3 of em are 6ft 4" or 1.9M tall I need something like it so that they can sit behind me and leave the leg room I need cos I'm also 6ft 4" and like a brick dunny
Also of course in city traffic I'm lucky to get 25MPG but on a really decent run it will do over 50 MPG with loads of power to boot, and speaking of boot, its about 3 times as big as yours without putting the seat down, so even more space for TEA goodies
Received that Type 114 today. It is in basically new condition. For the price? An absolute steal and a big upgrade over my homemade 555 timer based pulse generator.
Oh nice circuit board!
It's gorgeous! Super super clean inside.
I spent some more time with the 431B today. I pulled and resoldered Q109 and it seemed to fix the 10 KC amplifier/oscillator behavior when there's no thermistor attached. It misbehaves like always when I attach the thermistor.
The thermistor is known good; it works perfectly on my 432A.
PM6669: 9.2 Mb, need a mail adress, too large for TEA
PM3265, no, however: 3262 (13Mb) - 3264 (97Mb) - 3266 (24Mb) - 3267 (2Mb)
PM2454 (4.5Mb) included here
PM6603: no
PM5105: French, 5,5Mb
PM6620: no but: PM6622-PM6624-PM6625 Operation & Service manual (English, German)
PM6669: yes, 9,2Mb
Frans
So I got lucky and found another 431B at the local surplus shop, in sad shape that I can break down for parts.
PM6669: 9.2 Mb, need a mail adress, too large for TEA
PM3265, no, however: 3262 (13Mb) - 3264 (97Mb) - 3266 (24Mb) - 3267 (2Mb)
PM2454 (4.5Mb) included here
PM6603: no
PM5105: French, 5,5Mb
PM6620: no but: PM6622-PM6624-PM6625 Operation & Service manual (English, German)
PM6669: yes, 9,2Mb
Frans
Might you have the service manual for the PM3088? That would help me!