I was known as that when I had a Land Rover
I actually just saw that I burned a nice line in the table. That explains the funny smell!
Now that could get to be very expensive in more ways than one
Ok HP 6237B load test passed
3 hours on full whack and it's barely even warm.
Excellent! Love the old passively cooled HP supplies. My first bench supply was an HP 6200B and it's still on the bench.
Ok HP 6237B load test passed
3 hours on full whack and it's barely even warm.
Excellent! Love the old passively cooled HP supplies. My first bench supply was an HP 6200B and it's still on the bench.
They are very nice bench supplies, I have a dual output 6205B in my
collection hoard, it's also the only HP item I have with a HP branded mains plug.
David
I'll see your HP
moulded branded plug with the branded moulded plug on my HP 6236B and raise you a Vactrol and a heatsink.
When you get this amount of gear then I think it's time to admit to being a TEA addict.
Re: HP supplies...
Very nice 6205. Original Harrison branded one too.
Not going to part with this one. It did fine service this evening when I was measuring step response of a filter I designed. I really like it. Just feels solid, tactile and just nice to use.
I might pick up some more if they’re in good condition. There’s one up there now, the 0-320V model but the price is stupid high and I’d kill myself in two minutes flat with it.
Re: that video. There’s a guy I know not far from me who has that amount of stuff in his house. He doesn’t do internet though or he’d be on here.
it's also the only HP item I have with a HP branded mains plug.
Boring. I have an HP branded lump of wood
I might pick up some more if they’re in good condition. There’s one up there now, the 0-320V model but the price is stupid high and I’d kill myself in two minutes flat with it.
Yeah, eBay sellers seem to set their price proportional to voltage.
That’s true. Tube tester? (Glorified power supply and some resistors)... 1 meeeelion dollars.
Edit: ooh just found a batch of unicorn dung outside of eBay. Going to to camp that like a tick on a dog.
That’s true. Tube tester? (Glorified power supply and some resistors)... 1 meeeelion dollars.
Edit: ooh just found a batch of unicorn dung outside of eBay. Going to to camp that like a tick on a dog.
I picked up a 1kV DC/DC converter the other week for ~£15 to turn into a low current high voltage bench supply precisely because I haven't been able to pick up a decent high voltage bench supply as I'm far too stingy to pay the sort of silly prices people ask.
I suspect that I might have stumbled across the same unicorn midden - don't worry, the only thing I'm seriously looking at is one of the GPSDOs.
If it’s one of those HP units, I’d steer well clear. Receiver on those is ancient and the oscillators drift outside of the control region. Had a new one of them years ago on my hands that did that which was supposed to be part of a test system. Ended up being swapped for a stabilock unit.
That’s true. Tube tester? (Glorified power supply and some resistors)... 1 meeeelion dollars.
Edit: ooh just found a batch of unicorn dung outside of eBay. Going to to camp that like a tick on a dog.
You are familiar with the removal method of ticks camping on a dog I take it? Just pray you don't get the same treatment or you'll know how that resistor felt. [emoji44]
From mobile device so predictive text might have struck again [emoji83]
To be honest, I never quite understand why the big guns HV probes always seem to have such massive, uninsulated tips on them, especially when so often the test points or accessible points on HV are so often in such close proximity to other items or even grounded metal work, seems to be inviting flash overs if you ask me?
These HV probes are not made for general diag work; they are made for a specific purpose: to measure the HV at the anode on a CRT while it is still in-circuit. That extra-long probe tip is made to be able to work under the big rubber cap without damaging it; some of these are 3" across and will tear easily, so the probe is made long & thin. I have a stand-alone B&K model HV-44 I leave hanging from a pin on the wall which I call "The Probulator"; it's mostly there for my own perverse amusement rather than any useful purpose.
Later versions, like the 44A on the right, have a shorter probe tip and a shrouded neck like you're suggesting; these are more meant for work with projection TV focus blocks and HV dividers.
mnem
*tzzzzzt*
That’s true. Tube tester? (Glorified power supply and some resistors)... 1 meeeelion dollars.
Edit: ooh just found a batch of unicorn dung outside of eBay. Going to to camp that like a tick on a dog.
You are familiar with the removal method of ticks camping on a dog I take it? Just pray you don't get the same treatment or you'll know how that resistor felt. [emoji44]
From mobile device so predictive text might have struck again [emoji83]
Haha. Call my sister to do it. She’s a vet
To be honest, I never quite understand why the big guns HV probes always seem to have such massive, uninsulated tips on them, especially when so often the test points or accessible points on HV are so often in such close proximity to other items or even grounded metal work, seems to be inviting flash overs if you ask me?
These HV probes are not made for general diag work; they are made for a specific purpose: to measure the HV at the anode on a CRT while it is still in-circuit. That extra-long probe tip is made to be able to work under the big rubber cap without damaging it; some of these are 3" across and will tear easily, so the probe is made long & thin. I have a stand-alone B&K model HV-44 I leave hanging from a pin on the wall which I call "The Probulator"; it's mostly there for my own perverse amusement rather than any useful purpose.
Later versions, like the 44A on the right, have a shorter probe tip and a shrouded neck like you're suggesting; these are more meant for work with projection TV focus blocks and HV dividers.
mnem
*tzzzzzt*
Arh now that does make sense but really limits its usage because if you tried to to use it on any other HV point there would be a serious threat of a flash over if the exposed tip came close to anything else.
From mobile device so predictive text might have struck again [emoji83]
That’s true. Tube tester? (Glorified power supply and some resistors)... 1 meeeelion dollars.
Edit: ooh just found a batch of unicorn dung outside of eBay. Going to to camp that like a tick on a dog.
You are familiar with the removal method of ticks camping on a dog I take it? Just pray you don't get the same treatment or you'll know how that resistor felt. [emoji44]
From mobile device so predictive text might have struck again [emoji83]
Haha. Call my sister to do it. She’s a vet
My dad didn't do that, he never knew your sister🤣. He used a freshly drawn cigarette so the tip nicely glowing and applied that to their arse. As soon as they released their bite they were squashed with tweezers, nice way to meet your end.
From mobile device so predictive text might have struck again [emoji83]
I think that’s what my sister would do but it’d be using a special vetinary cigarette, you’d have to wait until next Wednesday to do it and it’s cost you at least £300 and have a 50% chance of having to take the dog home in a bin bag
To be honest, I never quite understand why the big guns HV probes always seem to have such massive, uninsulated tips on them, especially when so often the test points or accessible points on HV are so often in such close proximity to other items or even grounded metal work, seems to be inviting flash overs if you ask me?
These HV probes are not made for general diag work; they are made for a specific purpose: to measure the HV at the anode on a CRT while it is still in-circuit. That extra-long probe tip is made to be able to work under the big rubber cap without damaging it; some of these are 3" across and will tear easily, so the probe is made long & thin. I have a stand-alone B&K model HV-44 I leave hanging from a pin on the wall which I call "The Probulator"; it's mostly there for my own perverse amusement rather than any useful purpose.
Later versions, like the 44A on the right, have a shorter probe tip and a shrouded neck like you're suggesting; these are more meant for work with projection TV focus blocks and HV dividers.
mnem
*tzzzzzt*
Arh now that does make sense but really limits its usage because if you tried to to use it on any other HV point there would be a serious threat of a flash over if the exposed tip came close to anything else.
From mobile device so predictive text might have struck again [emoji83]
Well, yeah, in modern test scenarios this is true. But these were made back in the day of 25" color console TVs where there was enough room to crawl inside and work on it (and sometimes you had to); their only concern there was keeping YOU from becoming the path to ground while you were setting the HV limit.
Everything evolves; even the Probulator.
mnem
*Toddles off to ded*
I think that’s what my sister would do but it’d be using a special vetinary cigarette, you’d have to wait until next Wednesday to do it and it’s cost you at least £300 and have a 50% chance of having to take the dog home in a bin bag
My dad would do it for free, and we never had any harm to our dog, so 0% chance of a bin bag jobbie [emoji4]
From mobile device so predictive text might have struck again [emoji83]
Nonetheless... if your state hasn't already implemented these minimum emissions tests, they ARE coming soon. Get ready.
Hmmm.... here in WA, the test is $15 and you get a free retest if you fail. Also, once you've spent $150 on diagnosis/repair at an approved specialist, you can get a waiver! So $165 worst case. Once you get the certificate, it's valid for two years and by renewing your registration early (they allow up to six months), you can milk it for three.
My 2001 Audi likes to throw "warmup catalytic converter efficiency" codes. The test is too sensitive some say. Early this year, the check engine light went off voluntarily, so I hied down to the testing station and got my three years worth for $15. Must have been running really good gas that week
I'd actually fix it, but the offending downpipes are $400 each and the official procedure is to remove the engine to replace them.
There was talk about abandoning the testing program here since so few cars fail these days. They don't test new cars nor really old ones anymore.
Thats so much better than our crappy system, a test is £54.85 and lasts only 1 year. If it fails and you can repair it and return to the same test centre within 24 hours, the retest is free. 24 hours to 10 days you pay a partial test fee (note that they don't state what that fee is, I expect that to allow the test centre to set their own charges and make more money
After 10 days your back to the full fee again.
There is no way you can work it to your favour either, you can have it tested a month before it is due and if it passes, the new certificate is back dated to end of the current one. If you make a mistake as I did once and have it tested to earlier, than the old certificate is cancelled and the new one started from the date of the test, so you loose out on the time actually remaining on the old certificate
How in fucks sake is that fair