IME, usually Manganin or Constantan wire is spot-welded to the leads or terminals; these are soldered. Once I have a chance to do a little cleanup, I may be able to confirm this. It is possible they made these shunts in-house exactly the same as several other similar precision resistors that are in the meter. If they're made with silver-bearing solder, that might explain the construction.
mnem
*really off to bed this time*
Somebody needs to take my credit card away... Oh, and I bought a PS3 Slim just because it was complete for $25...
mnem
More like someone needs a fidgit spinner, 3D Printer or their real existing toy collection back under their wings again. Just remember all this extra crap you are adding now will be combined with the other at some point in the future
While I wholeheartedly agree with the latter part (and the part after that
), I’ve resolved the fidget spinner part in the form of 5, 10 and 20 lb dumbbells I also bought today for a little self-improvement.
We’ll see if I can get my wife in on this aspect as well.
mnem
*knocks self unconscious with a 5-pounder*
IME, usually Manganin or Constantan wire is spot-welded to the leads or terminals; these are soldered. Once I have a chance to do a little cleanup, I may be able to confirm this. It is possible they made these shunts in-house exactly the same as several other similar precision resistors that are in the meter. If they're made with silver-bearing solder, that might explain the construction.
mnem
*really off to bed this time*
You should be able to solder manganin wire. You will need to remove any oxidization/coatings, then coat the end in flux, before soldering(quickly)
Mnem's bulking up !
How long will it last ?
"Bulking up"
With 20lb dumbbells?? That's just 9kg.
McBryce.
Started the vertical board swap on the 485. Getting the old board out is pretty easy. But getting the new board in is a real struggle. Getting a single pin in the center of the board plus the vertical output IC pins lined up with no sight, strictly by feel, took nearly a half hour. But they are lined up now and finishing up will go quickly.
Pix to follow and cross your fingers that it comes up. I DON'T want to attempt to put the old board back in if this one doesn't work.
"Bulking up" With 20lb dumbbells?? That's just 9kg.
"Nur die Harten kommen in den Garten..."
Started the vertical board swap on the 485. Getting the old board out is pretty easy. But getting the new board in is a real struggle. Getting a single pin in the center of the board plus the vertical output IC pins lined up with no sight, strictly by feel, took nearly a half hour. But they are lined up now and finishing up will go quickly.
Pix to follow and cross your fingers that it comes up. I DON'T want to attempt to put the old board back in if this one doesn't work.
Doing
this such stuff you need to make sure, that your tongue is in the right angle.
Example:
And making sure that everything is correctly mounted the right way to prevent the electrons falling out.
Yes, that might be helpful as well.
Well, I got some fun. The PSU is going into tick mode. If I pull the supplies from the vertical board the PSU comes up. But nothing is shorted to ground. So I have to isolate which supply shuts down when I connect the board. Just freaking wonderful.
Is it normal for HP 3400A with input not connected, when switching the ranges switch, the meter's needle move to right most, and then rest back to zero at the left most ? It happens at every switching at every ranges.
Well, I got some fun. The PSU is going into tick mode. If I pull the supplies from the vertical board the PSU comes up. But nothing is shorted to ground. So I have to isolate which supply shuts down when I connect the board. Just freaking wonderful.
Just a thought, but could it be that maybe a pin or more may not properly aligned after all?
Is it normal for HP 3400A with input not connected, when switching the ranges switch, the meter's needle move to right most, and then rest back to zero at the left most ? It happens at every switching at every ranges.
Yeah that's normal
400E does it too.
Thanks, good to know.
Btw, hows the restoration of your 3400A ? Especially at the peeled skin face.
Well, I found the issue and it's fatal. The +24.7V is shutting down because the Vertical Output IC on this board is NFG.
Chances of swapping over that IC successfully without damaging it are pretty slim. So, I have no choice but to put the old board back in. Whoopie.
But for now I'm taking a break.
Btw, hows the restoration of your 3400A ? Especially at the peeled skin face.
Honestly I priced up the repair job and it was considerably more than buying one that doesn't have a peeling face and actually works so it has departed already as spares/repair. It covered the fuel and books that were bought though
I am attending the Rainham radio rally on sunday morning so will see what turns up there. It's hamfest season at last!
hey bd
were you bitchin' a couple of weeks ago about a sweep problem in an hp 1740?
grabbed one of mine to look at some ttl stuff and discovered it was having sweep/retrace hiccups.
pulled the cover and found this note. hmmmmmm. that is my handwriting. musta' put that note in there 15 or 20 years ago.
followed my instructions from the past (or maybe i am finally gonna' get around to that time machine and its from the future?). it is now working a-ok once again. most likely pushing at the top reseats that white connector waaaaaay down at the bottom of the board?
or did you already sell your only hp scope?