Mmmmmokaaaayyyy... can anyone who can be arsed to respond to this twisted tale confirm that they have actually seen one of the above-mentioned hipsters riding an actual fixxie? As in, direct-drive, etc...?
Yes, I've seen loads around the Hoxton and Shoreditch areas.
The easy way to spot such a bike is by the lack of any brake levers on the handlebars.
A surprise package arrived today from the Great White North. An "offical" Tek Alignment Tool Kit. I can certainly put that to good use. Especially some of the odd ball lengths and sizes. Some adjustments can be a real pain if you don't have the right tool. This kit solves that problem.
Mnem, can't thank you enough!
like a broken record ... round and round we go
I found my mini o-ring kit from Princess Auto! Actually, I did not know I even had the kit This is after I ordered the big red kit; I have to go sometime soon to pick it up.
But of course, it cannot be that easy. The ring labelled 3/32 ID has a cross section of more than 1.5mm.MeasuredApproximated with my cheap Princess Auto calipers with the dead battery Same thing with the 3/8 (9mm) size; the cross section is way too big at over 1.5mm.
The only reason I found the o-rings and a whole bunch of tape measures is because I was searching for something else...
Thanks to an incredible act of generosity by a fellow forum member, I have recently come into possession of this little beauty:
...The 24V kit with thumb throttle wound up paired to the 36V-rated motor above, as my first trial is going to be with one of my 6S Kobalt Drill/Impact Driver batteries, and I need to match the ESC's LVC to the battery. I'm hoping that underdriving the motor will keep the current draw within the limits of the BMS in the pack even carting me around; I've drawn almost 20A from one of these before when powering my LiPo charger in motor test mode.
With the thumb-throttle, ESC and battery in the bag, the whole thing adds less than 5kg to the bike. I think that's a more than fair tradeoff for my intended purpose.
mnem
The easy way to spot such a bike is by the lack of any brake levers on the handlebars.
Around here that ought not to be the case. By law bicycles must have brakes fitted* and the law takes no account of fixies. Nor should it, as you'll stop a lot quicker under control with brakes than you will with muscle power. However, I would not be in the least surprised to find a bunch of people who would rather risk their lives than spoil the clean lines of their fixie with brakes and levers.
* The Pedal Cycles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1983
like a broken record ... round and round we go
I found my mini o-ring kit from Princess Auto! Actually, I did not know I even had the kit This is after I ordered the big red kit; I have to go sometime soon to pick it up.
But of course, it cannot be that easy. The ring labelled 3/32 ID has a cross section of more than 1.5mm.MeasuredApproximated with my cheap Princess Auto calipers with the dead battery Same thing with the 3/8 (9mm) size; the cross section is way too big at over 1.5mm.
The only reason I found the o-rings and a whole bunch of tape measures is because I was searching for something else...
Oklay... first; the 3/32ID x 3/32 cross section definitely is the one you want. You just need to lube your shaft a little and it'll pop right in there.
This guy has the process down, tho I just cut the stepped part of the poly bushing off with an X-Acto knife.
Also, I'm using Team Losi # TLR-74014 60WT (800cst equiv) silicone shock oil, bought locally here: https://pinnaclehobby.ca/products/tlr-74014-60-wt-shock-oil
Oh, also-also, I didn't like how using an o-ring on the top cap left it holding on by only a couple threads, so I made gaskets out of a thin pizza box. I used the kind with the plastic film coating on one side, so I could leave that facing the oil:
And finally, I took my can of ChainLube and sprayed some out into a small cup, then dipped that onto all the dogbones and CV joints to make sure they get some lube. The ChainLube goo sticks in there pretty good.
Also, unless you like buying body clips by the bagful, you'll want to take some 20lb fishing line and make a lanyard for each of the clips for the battery, tied to the battery hold-down.
These are the extra batteries I bought, as they (and their slightly smaller 1600mAH brothers) were the only thing of the right size that I could count on getting before the summer was over: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08FD81F4F/
They're a drop-in replacement for the ones that come in these cars; first testing is very promising with cells well matched at a nice low 9-10milli-Ω and so far, taking aboot 1600mAH to bring them back up to full on my big charger. We'll see how they hold up.
I won't grump too much if you leave the eebil Deans' connectors on 'em. And the LiPo charging/storage bag is just good safety practice.
Cheers,
mnem
Now I know what happens to my tape measures: The Grelber throws them into a wormhole that exits in your baliwick...
...The 24V kit with thumb throttle wound up paired to the 36V-rated motor above, as my first trial is going to be with one of my 6S Kobalt Drill/Impact Driver batteries, and I need to match the ESC's LVC to the battery. I'm hoping that underdriving the motor will keep the current draw within the limits of the BMS in the pack even carting me around; I've drawn almost 20A from one of these before when powering my LiPo charger in motor test mode.
With the thumb-throttle, ESC and battery in the bag, the whole thing adds less than 5kg to the bike. I think that's a more than fair tradeoff for my intended purpose.
mnem
Today's trial was very promising. I rode my fatBike under electric power all the way to our local park, pedaled it all around the park (avoiding the water-spray splash zone full of idiot parents and their little kids, not one of them wearing a mask... ) until I couldn't breathe, then rode it home under power, then rode it two times around the block before it started to really slow down without it once going into shutdown.
Quick check as soon as I climbed off the bike showed 2 lights left on a fully-charged battery pack; while touch test found the motor, battery pack and even the spade connectors plugged into the battery just barely warm to the touch.
Acceleration is modest at best... top speed on level aboot 12KPH according to my cheap Bike-Puter, and while it will come up to speed from a dead stop while hauling my fat arse, it probably will not do so up any serious incline, which is just fine. My use-case is almost entirely level streets, and if that changes I can always swap out for higher-current-capable LiPos at the same or higher voltage using the 36V ESC that came with the kit.
I may build up some adapters so I can do wattage & mAH consumption rate with my power analyzer; but first, I believe I need to get a battery plug-in adapter printed up and maybe a working kickstand, etc...
https://www.amazon.ca/Bresuve-Kickstands-Kickstand-Adjustable-Aluminum/dp/B07TXKQQCP/
Speaking of which... can anybody here tell me if these work worth a flying fuck? It looks like it would be a perfect fit if they aren't just pure Craptonium.
mnem
Thanks to an incredible act of generosity by a fellow forum member, I have recently come into possession of this little beauty:
..
I haven't powered it up yet, as I've been advised that given its age, lack of recent use, and known potential issues, I should open it up first and inspect for some possible dodgy battery cells and/or capacitors, as well as the odd loose screw or nut or what-have-you that might be rattling around inside. Nonetheless, I'm excited to have this little gem and look forward to working out what applications I can put it to. Apparently additional modules are also still available on Ebay as well, to add functionality.
I won't identify the forum member who sent this to me, in case he doesn't want attention called to himself. Rather I'll leave it to him to decide if he wants to "out" himself or not.
I've always ridden for comfortable pedaling, not speed. This bike has a right delicious hill-climber gear that is almost too slow for me to keep my balance; I use it heavily and have been in the habit of completing a shift to my lowest gear before I get off the bike since I was like 13.
I was afraid of the condition you suggest when I asked; a mount like that one depends on the wall of the chainstay having a profile which matches the contour of the casting very closely to work, and with the rubber in there I have my doubts. Unfortunately, the kind you're talking aboot want to go in the space already occupied by the motor & plate... I've already been looking.
I can try one of the old-fashioned ones that go right in the crux under the crankset... but I'm aboot 90% certain there's no way I'll be able to operate that with my foot due to the motor in the way. Also, those fuckers always come loose and flop around...
I was hoping that one might be good enough, as the way it mounts I could put it right between motor and pedals, so should be able to work it with a foot.
mnem
grr. arrg.
Due to the risk of dropping a bike when on a stand or getting it bumped or blown over most I ride with even socially don't use them.
...I prefer brakes on both front and back wheels.
Thanks to an incredible act of generosity by a fellow forum member, I have recently come into possession of this little beauty:
The easy way to spot such a bike is by the lack of any brake levers on the handlebars.
Around here that ought not to be the case. By law bicycles must have brakes fitted* and the law takes no account of fixies. Nor should it, as you'll stop a lot quicker under control with brakes than you will with muscle power. However, I would not be in the least surprised to find a bunch of people who would rather risk their lives than spoil the clean lines of their fixie with brakes and levers.
* The Pedal Cycles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1983
The easy way to spot such a bike is by the lack of any brake levers on the handlebars.
Around here that ought not to be the case. By law bicycles must have brakes fitted* and the law takes no account of fixies. Nor should it, as you'll stop a lot quicker under control with brakes than you will with muscle power. However, I would not be in the least surprised to find a bunch of people who would rather risk their lives than spoil the clean lines of their fixie with brakes and levers.
* The Pedal Cycles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1983
@beanflying the 'stack' of 10 perspex numbers seems to be about 20mm thick - so at least 1.5mm thick sheet.
Regards Rob
@beanflying the 'stack' of 10 perspex numbers seems to be about 20mm thick - so at least 1.5mm thick sheet.
Regards Rob
Thanks, I have plenty of 2mm so I will make a stack and breakout some baby SMD LED's I have for a play.
edit found a Little Creatures Beer and Fusion while dinner cooks. Also found my stash of 0603 high intensity LED's.