Best Translation of the day award goes to...
The seller of the meter collecton offered a partial refund of £5 which I accepted. So my £20 Fluke 11 is now a £15 Fluke. Took it apart and cleaned the zebra strip and works. The Micronta is next.
Must have had a major failure at some point, as the pass transistors have all been replaced with these.
Think this seller is hoarding them all,
https://www.ebay.de/itm/224043034507
Not a very good price, hence why they still have them, but probably cheaper than importing from the US.
Or do what I did and buy more vintage h- TEA, until you have many.
Alternately there is this dodgy looking 3DP thing here,
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4862134
I think the choice of crimps is unsafe, they need to be split and/or springy, to be a decent electrical connection as the originals. If only someone could re-design it to fit some decent sprung socket crimp contacts.
The guy I bought my hp 5248M from had used bullet crimps and had complained he got a slight shock from the casing, to me they were a poor connection and they quickly got thrown out after I acquired it.
Oh and clean the pins in the sockets, same would apply to 50 year old IEC inlets.
Edit: Almost forgot this abomination that came with my hp 101A.
David
P.S I remember Vince was building a garage, think he first mentioned it when commenting on the shortage of drivers for digging the foundation.
...Alternately there is this dodgy looking 3DP thing here,
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4862134
I think the choice of crimps is unsafe, they need to be split and/or springy, to be a decent electrical connection as the originals. If only someone could re-design it to fit some decent sprung socket crimp contacts....For the 3d printed thing: I just run a test print. I found the recommended crimp contacts should have springiness, as they are slotted.
And guess how I contacted the 163 prong for testing (using an isolation variac)...
Any way you do it, a invitation to a buttload of misery; either from doing it the right way or doing it wrong.
Picked a great day to skive off kite fishing as nothing much happening here.
Caught a feed for the mate and I but nothing more.
It was long overdue to have the rig see the light of day...one like this:
https://www.fishingtacklesale.co.nz/product/810164So wait... what...?
You actually wanted to catch something...?
That's just unnatural. Contravenes the whole purpose of going fishing; to kill a few bottles with your mate while enjoying a beautiful day out on a boat or on a sandbar...
As soon as you catch something, then you have to do work.
ewwwwwww.
mnem
*well-known to tie a bobber and nothing else on the end of his line*
https://www.pishop.ca/product/raspberry-pi-400-complete-kit/
Looks like the ol' Sinclair ZX81 has finally come full-circle...
mnem
Must have had a major failure at some point, as the pass transistors have all been replaced with these.
The rectifier and regulators boards are identical and they carry the numbers of the 5243.
Both counters share the same power supply with the three 2N301 pass transistors (I just found that I have 2 of them). The service manuals warns that these will go south along with the rectifiers on a short circuit (during measurements). The regulation is a bit strange with the +20V floating on the regulated +13V and the SM states to set the +20V with the control for the +7V regulator first. The SM states the reference zener to be 7V, but on my board it measures as 3.9V and it is different from the two other 7V zeners.
Any way you do it, a invitation to a buttload of misery; either from doing it the right way or doing it wrong.
The right way is to kill that "163" crap and install a "mickey mouse", ie. IEC 60320 C6. Unless you are building a museum. Me, I'm building a working shop with boat anchors, and I'll make them reasonably safe.
Must have had a major failure at some point, as the pass transistors have all been replaced with these.
The rectifier and regulators boards are identical and they carry the numbers of the 5243.
Both counters share the same power supply with the three 2N301 pass transistors (I just found that I have 2 of them). The service manuals warns that these will go south along with the rectifiers on a short circuit (during measurements). The regulation is a bit strange with the +20V floating on the regulated +13V and the SM states to set the +20V with the control for the +7V regulator first. The SM states the reference zener to be 7V, but on my board it measures as 3.9V and it is different from the two other 7V zeners.
Don't you just love it when the documentation and what sits on your bench don't match? I see it ALL the time with Tek stuff. Tek was always changing/improving stuff and after all these years the correct docs to reflect those changes may not have been captured in someone's stash.
Must have had a major failure at some point, as the pass transistors have all been replaced with these.
The rectifier and regulators boards are identical and they carry the numbers of the 5243.
Both counters share the same power supply with the three 2N301 pass transistors (I just found that I have 2 of them). The service manuals warns that these will go south along with the rectifiers on a short circuit (during measurements). The regulation is a bit strange with the +20V floating on the regulated +13V and the SM states to set the +20V with the control for the +7V regulator first. The SM states the reference zener to be 7V, but on my board it measures as 3.9V and it is different from the two other 7V zeners.
Don't you just love it when the documentation and what sits on your bench don't match? I see it ALL the time with Tek stuff. Tek was always changing/improving stuff and after all these years the correct docs to reflect those changes may not have been captured in someone's stash.
Must have had a major failure at some point, as the pass transistors have all been replaced with these.
The rectifier and regulators boards are identical and they carry the numbers of the 5243.
Both counters share the same power supply with the three 2N301 pass transistors (I just found that I have 2 of them). The service manuals warns that these will go south along with the rectifiers on a short circuit (during measurements). The regulation is a bit strange with the +20V floating on the regulated +13V and the SM states to set the +20V with the control for the +7V regulator first. The SM states the reference zener to be 7V, but on my board it measures as 3.9V and it is different from the two other 7V zeners.
Don't you just love it when the documentation and what sits on your bench don't match? I see it ALL the time with Tek stuff. Tek was always changing/improving stuff and after all these years the correct docs to reflect those changes may not have been captured in someone's stash.
This happens all the time with H. H. Scott tube hi fi equipment...
Downside is that I probably will have to install Home Assistant too.
Shipping again was via OrangeConnex, and no protection racket was exercised by PostMord. 15 days from Shenzen. Small plastic bags with counterfeit goods from China is in style after being impractical for some time.
You're neatly a year late coming to the party on that one.
Looking forward to seeing more pictures, here are same the pair of boards fitted to my 5243L, not much difference in the rectifier board, but regulator board has some older looking Zeners and I agree the original capacitors are long past their best, the 100uF had been replaced in the 70's & was fine (had to desolder to check).
Counter is s/n 408-00459 made in England, so way older than the service manual with series 628-xxxxx. No level control on the front, only sensitivity switch.
Inside not much dirt but some signs of corrosion, especially transistor caps on board A19, A20, A21, A35 in the bottom are dull. Boards A10..A14 are the same as A15, A16, so populated all medium frequency decimal counters where low frequency decimal counters would be required only. Board A10 is populated with different transistors, so maybe replaced once.
Measured the caps on board A7 as well as C4, C6..C10 to be fine with about nominal capacitance and low ESR, so fired the counter up and had at least some signs of life (will recap later).
First digit does not come up (bad nixie AND bad board A10, detected by swappings around), not counting right. Oscillator is working and oven heating. So have to invest some time for a more sophisticated analysis. A separate thread, I guess.
Must have had a major failure at some point, as the pass transistors have all been replaced with these.
The rectifier and regulators boards are identical and they carry the numbers of the 5243.
Both counters share the same power supply with the three 2N301 pass transistors (I just found that I have 2 of them). The service manuals warns that these will go south along with the rectifiers on a short circuit (during measurements). The regulation is a bit strange with the +20V floating on the regulated +13V and the SM states to set the +20V with the control for the +7V regulator first. The SM states the reference zener to be 7V, but on my board it measures as 3.9V and it is different from the two other 7V zeners.
Any way you do it, a invitation to a buttload of misery; either from doing it the right way or doing it wrong.
The right way is to kill that "163" crap and install a "mickey mouse", ie. IEC 60320 C6. Unless you are building a museum. Me, I'm building a working shop with boat anchors, and I'll make them reasonably safe.
Today's arrival: A 5-pack of ESP8266 with wifi and accompanying piggyback expander boards. Going to connect to my smart meter and see what comes out of that. Downside is that I probably will have to install Home Assistant too.
Shipping again was via OrangeConnex, and no protection racket was exercised by PostMord. 15 days from Shenzen. Small plastic bags with counterfeit goods from China is in style after being impractical for some time.
https://www.pishop.ca/product/raspberry-pi-400-complete-kit/
Looks like the ol' Sinclair ZX81 has finally come full-circle...
mnem
You're neatly a year late coming to the party on that one. We all barfed at the colour scheme on that when it came out in ... [looks up]... November last year. And yes, ZX81 and commodore 64 comparisons were made.
So, in best Sinclair style: always a year late and a few pounds short.
Today's arrival: A 5-pack of ESP8266 with wifi and accompanying piggyback expander boards. Going to connect to my smart meter and see what comes out of that. Downside is that I probably will have to install Home Assistant too.
Shipping again was via OrangeConnex, and no protection racket was exercised by PostMord. 15 days from Shenzen. Small plastic bags with counterfeit goods from China is in style after being impractical for some time.Having also tried my hand at this at my parents house, this is what I can report:
It initially started with my father dabbeling in "node red" - which is an unstable mess of a dumpster fire, we could not even get it installed more than once and it keeps crashing every 2-3 months, warranting a hard reset of the pi.
Having looked at FHEM (try this if you are already fluent at perl, if not: stay the fuck away) and
OpenHAB (could not get the hang of it at all) last christmas vacation, HA came out on top. It does not crash like node red from nothing.
ALL of these systems depend on you to understand theire way of describing automation flows, the way they group things and so on, but while not perfect HA was at least not undecipherable.
Zigbee clients in general need a lot less power than the wlan one's. In general the strength of open source home automation is it is easy to add something to it.
Like, if you already have HA, adding an RPI zero with zigbee2mqtt and one of the recommended usb zigbee dongles opens up a world of compatible devices. (e.g. Philips hue, Ikea tradfri, chinese led strip controllers...)
Adding a reciever for enocean allows for touch-powered (battery-less) switches (stay away from there power hungry, hard to teach in actors!).
After getting it running initially, adding something onto it is often just a weekend's day away.
Think very hard if you want HA within a docker container - that allows for easy adding stuff like signal-message integration (that come as additional docker containers) or running it directly on a linux box (better performance, less moving parts, but good help you, if you decide you want one of the docker-contained addons).
This is but the first step of a long journey, but and keep IMHO the direction is good
...Must have had a major failure at some point, as the pass transistors have all been replaced with these.
DavidSeems pretty likely that Sprague doody-bomb died the way they often do... dead-short and kaboom. I'd shotgun that section m'self, including the one that was "replaced in the 70s".
mnem
Trust noonecapacitor.