The Gossen Geohm has been batterized.
It works, but probably not 100% to specification. It reads consistently 5% low, through the entire range of my standard resistors, 1, 10, 100, 1000 Ω.
Since we're talking about standards, and there was a request, I'll put a few pics here and a few in a follow-up. First, a group photo. Then some details. The RFT ones are all similar. The odd one out is 100Ω, an Austrian Norma, and some 8 years younger.
So your new-old wiggle-meter is proper wiggly...?
mnem
don't read this.
Completed the re-cap of the Type 1A4 plug-in. Checked connector for shorts and none found. First test is a giant fail. This is what I get on the CRT. Total garbage which isn't affected, or very minimally, by any controls. So obviously something major is screwed up.
But I have an even bigger issue. In order to troubleshoot this plug-in, and just about any 500 series plug-in, you MUST have an extender. It is absolutely impossible to fix issues other than simple calibration/compensation which are accessible without one. But if the plug-in doesn't operate properly you are totally SOL without an extender. They very rarely come up on Ebay and when they do they are insanely expensive. I have one for 560 series but it doesn't work for 500 series.
So what to do? Make one. I have the male end of the connector assembly on the parts Type 1A1 plug-in. I don't have the female end (131-0018-00) and they rarely come up on Ebay. But dusty dawg and dirty dawg have them. See where I'm going? I may have to scrap one of the Type 547's just for that damn connector. I'm going to put this Type 1A4 aside for now and finish cleaning up dusty dawg and see if it powers up. See what kind of condition it's in. Then assess both of them. I already know that dirty dawg from the other day MIGHT have a bad HV transformer. If it does that could condemn it to parts unit.
So tomorrow I'll start cleaning up dusty dawg.
You might try that plugin in
dusty dawg real quick, in case the issue is connector or power related. You said it does seem to work normally until it warms up.
Point being... a consensus (or lack thereof) of more than one scope's behavior might yield more useful datapoints.
mnem
Here's more to watch: Importing a fine German tradition, we have Adventskalender here. Mine is from Wera.
Well, you forgot to grant access to your disk drive... I assume that one is fine.
Wife's is from L'Occitane. Boys got theirs from Lindt...
That's terrifying. Just watch the Spongebob episode where he tries to escape from the large store, crawling through the perfume department...
Feck, why do you all have cooler and sexier High-Resistance meters than me? Grrrr...nothing on offer.
<SNIP>
I have a spare T2900 if you want one.
On the subject of tools, I've been building out my off roading toolkit that I keep in the back of my truck. Got a nice Black Friday deal on the 1/2" drive mid torque impact on the right, to go with my existing 3/8" drive compact impact on the left. This should bust any nut I need to. I gotta say the new design Milwaukee fuel impacts are super nice, and along with a scissor jack modified with a 1/2" drive socket to spin it, they make short work of the job when you stop to help someone change a shredded tire on a forest road.
The belt hook on the handle, is it (both specific to this machine and in general) movable to the other side for my left-handed operation needs?
I'm more of a pressurised air type when it comes to impacts but knowing the alternatives is always good.
Also, I'm a Bosch/AEG/Makita person around battery drills/drivers, but brands being layers of paint on generic constructions way too often these days, I'm probably fooling myself..
[snip]
Indeed, it is designed to be ambidextrous. You can move the clip to the other side with just a screwdriver.
Really, as long as you stay away from the cheap big box home store brands like Ryobi, they are all pretty good. Milwaukee is really nice stuff, and their battery technology probably has an edge over everyone else. and that is probably the most important part. I purposely bought a two pack of the high output batteries for these. Expensive, but worth it for run time. The mid torque is really a sweet spot in the lineup too...it has enough power to bust semi truck (lorry for you folks on the other side of the pond ) lug nuts. A friend of mine has the high torque model too and it is totally overkill for most applications...he's broken wheel studs with it.
I like air tools as well, but these are meant to go with me on offroading trips. Easier to carry than a big air compressor when you need to do a trail fix. And my 4Runner has a built in inverter so I can charge batteries while I drive if need be.
Similar here. Ryobi is known across the GWN as cheap, but suitable for single small project as a disposable tool. I agree Milwaukee is very good, but I find the tools are heavy (which means strong). Again, Bosch is very good,
especially their drill bits, but a bit heavy and on the expensive side. RIGID are rather impressive in performance with a leading warranty, but again a bit heavy and quite expensive. I have been giving good reviews on Makita as being not quite so heavy while still being almost as good as the heavier tools, but at a much better price point. However, I have proved to myself that Makita bought at a tool store is not the same as Makita bought as a big box store. I have two of the same Makita tool, except the Rona/Lowes version has plastic gears and the other from the professional shop has metal gears.
I like air tools, but it becomes a PITA working away from the garage. For high-power tools away from the garage, I still prefer corded tools, even if it means dragging an extension cord or using a generator. Generally, if I have a corded tool, I do not spend additional funds on an air tool version. For most outdoor work or quick jobs, battery tools are so much more convenient.
Here's the TM500 extender I made.
No reaching into the guts of the mainframe to plug this baby in.
Once Covid lets me ship out from Japan, I might sell these.
Here's more to watch: Importing a fine German tradition, we have Adventskalender here. Mine is from Wera.
Well, you forgot to grant access to your disk drive... I assume that one is fine.
It is. Attached.
Wife's is from L'Occitane. Boys got theirs from Lindt...
That's terrifying. Just watch the Spongebob episode where he tries to escape from the large store, crawling through the perfume department...
[/quote]
The L'Occitane series is much gentler than that. No worry.
Well, my brain is scrambled. I'm not exclusively a southpaw. Two dominant things I do exclusively left handed: Write (pen/pencil) and eat (fork). I used to use a mouse exclusively left until I started to develop carpal tunnel and switched to right. I throw right handed. If I attempted left it would be like a girl throws. I solder right handed. I can use a hammer in either hand.
This is one of the standard tests that gives a handedness rating.
https://rhd.talkbank.org/protocol/handedness.pdf
Laterality Quotient = (R-L)/(R+L) X 100
Here, R & L refer to the total number of "+" marked on the right and left side respectively.
The Laterality Quotient value is used to interpret handedness as given below:
Left-handedness = Less than -40
Ambidexterity = Between -40 and +40
Right-handedness = More than +40
A very surprising question that reveals subtle differences is totally missing.
I have a lot of anecdotal evidence that family history of handedness can be ascertained by handedness of playing hockey.
There appears to be a strong correlation between other-handed hockey and having other-handed family members.
The corollary appears to hold anecdotally as well; a strong correlation between same-handed hockey and having same-handed family members.
For example, I am right-handed according to that test, and in most other activities except hockey.
I play hockey left-handed. My kid is left-handed/ambidextrous and my sister is left-handed.
On the subject of tools, I've been building out my off roading toolkit that I keep in the back of my truck. Got a nice Black Friday deal on the 1/2" drive mid torque impact on the right, to go with my existing 3/8" drive compact impact on the left. This should bust any nut I need to. I gotta say the new design Milwaukee fuel impacts are super nice, and along with a scissor jack modified with a 1/2" drive socket to spin it, they make short work of the job when you stop to help someone change a shredded tire on a forest road.
The belt hook on the handle, is it (both specific to this machine and in general) movable to the other side for my left-handed operation needs?
I'm more of a pressurised air type when it comes to impacts but knowing the alternatives is always good.
Also, I'm a Bosch/AEG/Makita person around battery drills/drivers, but brands being layers of paint on generic constructions way too often these days, I'm probably fooling myself..
[snip]
Indeed, it is designed to be ambidextrous. You can move the clip to the other side with just a screwdriver.
Really, as long as you stay away from the cheap big box home store brands like Ryobi, they are all pretty good. Milwaukee is really nice stuff, and their battery technology probably has an edge over everyone else. and that is probably the most important part. I purposely bought a two pack of the high output batteries for these. Expensive, but worth it for run time. The mid torque is really a sweet spot in the lineup too...it has enough power to bust semi truck (lorry for you folks on the other side of the pond ) lug nuts. A friend of mine has the high torque model too and it is totally overkill for most applications...he's broken wheel studs with it.
I like air tools as well, but these are meant to go with me on offroading trips. Easier to carry than a big air compressor when you need to do a trail fix. And my 4Runner has a built in inverter so I can charge batteries while I drive if need be.
Similar here. Ryobi is known across the GWN as cheap, but suitable for single small project as a disposable tool. I agree Milwaukee is very good, but I find the tools are heavy (which means strong). Again, Bosch is very good, especially their drill bits, but a bit heavy and on the expensive side. RIGID are rather impressive in performance with a leading warranty, but again a bit heavy and quite expensive. I have been giving good reviews on Makita as being not quite so heavy while still being almost as good as the heavier tools, but at a much better price point. However, I have proved to myself that Makita bought at a tool store is not the same as Makita bought as a big box store. I have two of the same Makita tool, except the Rona/Lowes version has plastic gears and the other from the professional shop has metal gears.
I like air tools, but it becomes a PITA working away from the garage. For high-power tools away from the garage, I still prefer corded tools, even if it means dragging an extension cord or using a generator. Generally, if I have a corded tool, I do not spend additional funds on an air tool version. For most outdoor work or quick jobs, battery tools are so much more convenient.
Basically, you get what you pay for like anything else. Air is king if you are in the shop, but if you need to go portable....modern battery tools are super good now.
I have a couple of older Makita tools (a drill and 1/4" hex impact) that don't have brushless motors. They are ok, but brushless is a massive improvement.
Also: eBay auction: #223811718800
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/topic/extender_for_servicing_tm500/7656330
Alternatively, if you're willing to spend some time wiring it yourself (cutting the harness down to shorter length then resoldering if needed due to noise, or if you want heavier wires than 20ga which most of these extenders are), the TM500x series are pin compatible with pretty much any 56-pin JAMMA EXTENDER cable, which can be bought from most Arcade Game hobbyist shops for $10-20, depending on whether in the US or slow boat from China:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313&_nkw=jamma+extender&_sacat=0
You may have a local arcade game supplier where you can buy this over the counter; just ask for a JAMMA extender harness.
Good hunting, old friend!
mnem
It's an Amphenol "blue ribbon" connector, not PCB header.
Med needs a Amphenol 26-4100-16P like this
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143661607450 (GWN) Or
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254274095274 (USA)
EDIT the plug-in side is a 26-4100-16S
What Robert shows is what I need. The TM500 is not the same as the 500 series.
Going to check Ebay USA and order one.
Don't order one without checking the type first, I'm fairly certain the old
Tek 500 stuff uses the Amphenol Blue Ribbon/McMurdo Red Range connectors with polarizing
pins,
hp stuff uses the type with
barrier polarization (the bits in-between the contacts). The two types are totally incompatible, as can be seen below.
David
On the subject of tools, I've been building out my off roading toolkit that I keep in the back of my truck. Got a nice Black Friday deal on the 1/2" drive mid torque impact on the right, to go with my existing 3/8" drive compact impact on the left. This should bust any nut I need to. I gotta say the new design Milwaukee fuel impacts are super nice, and along with a scissor jack modified with a 1/2" drive socket to spin it, they make short work of the job when you stop to help someone change a shredded tire on a forest road.
The belt hook on the handle, is it (both specific to this machine and in general) movable to the other side for my left-handed operation needs?
I'm more of a pressurised air type when it comes to impacts but knowing the alternatives is always good.
Also, I'm a Bosch/AEG/Makita person around battery drills/drivers, but brands being layers of paint on generic constructions way too often these days, I'm probably fooling myself..
[snip]
Indeed, it is designed to be ambidextrous. You can move the clip to the other side with just a screwdriver.
Really, as long as you stay away from the cheap big box home store brands like Ryobi, they are all pretty good. Milwaukee is really nice stuff, and their battery technology probably has an edge over everyone else. and that is probably the most important part. I purposely bought a two pack of the high output batteries for these. Expensive, but worth it for run time. The mid torque is really a sweet spot in the lineup too...it has enough power to bust semi truck (lorry for you folks on the other side of the pond ) lug nuts. A friend of mine has the high torque model too and it is totally overkill for most applications...he's broken wheel studs with it.
I like air tools as well, but these are meant to go with me on offroading trips. Easier to carry than a big air compressor when you need to do a trail fix. And my 4Runner has a built in inverter so I can charge batteries while I drive if need be.
Similar here. Ryobi is known across the GWN as cheap, but suitable for single small project as a disposable tool. I agree Milwaukee is very good, but I find the tools are heavy (which means strong). Again, Bosch is very good, especially their drill bits, but a bit heavy and on the expensive side. RIGID are rather impressive in performance with a leading warranty, but again a bit heavy and quite expensive. I have been giving good reviews on Makita as being not quite so heavy while still being almost as good as the heavier tools, but at a much better price point. However, I have proved to myself that Makita bought at a tool store is not the same as Makita bought as a big box store. I have two of the same Makita tool, except the Rona/Lowes version has plastic gears and the other from the professional shop has metal gears.
I like air tools, but it becomes a PITA working away from the garage. For high-power tools away from the garage, I still prefer corded tools, even if it means dragging an extension cord or using a generator. Generally, if I have a corded tool, I do not spend additional funds on an air tool version. For most outdoor work or quick jobs, battery tools are so much more convenient.
Basically, you get what you pay for like anything else. Air is king if you are in the shop, but if you need to go portable....modern battery tools are super good now. I have a couple of older Makita tools (a drill and 1/4" hex impact) that don't have brushless motors. They are ok, but brushless is a massive improvement.
Not always, airlines on the floor are a hazard and with heavy gear always at risk of getting damaged and you can't have overhead drop lines everywhere that's needed.
The better grades of battery tools are taking over especially rattle guns. Trip into any tire shop these days and it's very rare to see an air rattle gun in use.
A wiggly-pointer LCR device for this page.
David
Also: eBay auction: #223811718800
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/topic/extender_for_servicing_tm500/7656330
Alternatively, if you're willing to spend some time wiring it yourself (cutting the harness down to shorter length then resoldering if needed due to noise, or if you want heavier wires than 20ga which most of these extenders are), the TM500x series are pin compatible with pretty much any 56-pin JAMMA EXTENDER cable, which can be bought from most Arcade Game hobbyist shops for $10-20, depending on whether in the US or slow boat from China:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313&_nkw=jamma+extender&_sacat=0
You may have a local arcade game supplier where you can buy this over the counter; just ask for a JAMMA extender harness.
Good hunting, old friend!
mnem
It's an Amphenol "blue ribbon" connector, not PCB header.
Med needs a Amphenol 26-4100-16P like this
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143661607450 (GWN) Or
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254274095274 (USA)
EDIT the plug-in side is a 26-4100-16S
What Robert shows is what I need. The TM500 is not the same as the 500 series.
Going to check Ebay USA and order one.
Don't order one without checking the type first, I'm fairly certain the old Tek 500 stuff uses the Amphenol Blue Ribbon/McMurdo Red Range connectors with polarizing pins, hp stuff uses the type with barrier polarization (the bits in-between the contacts). The two types are totally incompatible, as can be seen below.
David
Aw shit....It's the wrong one. I just checked. I cancelled the order.
Thanks for the heads up.
Also: eBay auction: #223811718800
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/topic/extender_for_servicing_tm500/7656330
Alternatively, if you're willing to spend some time wiring it yourself (cutting the harness down to shorter length then resoldering if needed due to noise, or if you want heavier wires than 20ga which most of these extenders are), the TM500x series are pin compatible with pretty much any 56-pin JAMMA EXTENDER cable, which can be bought from most Arcade Game hobbyist shops for $10-20, depending on whether in the US or slow boat from China:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313&_nkw=jamma+extender&_sacat=0
You may have a local arcade game supplier where you can buy this over the counter; just ask for a JAMMA extender harness.
Good hunting, old friend!
mnem
It's an Amphenol "blue ribbon" connector, not PCB header.
Med needs a Amphenol 26-4100-16P like this
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143661607450 (GWN) Or
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254274095274 (USA)
EDIT the plug-in side is a 26-4100-16S
What Robert shows is what I need. The TM500 is not the same as the 500 series.
Going to check Ebay USA and order one.
Edit...done. Thanks Robert, I did not know what the Amphenol P/N was.
Ahhh, sorry.
I sit corrected. Here I thought something I'd tripped over a few weeks ago might actually be useful.
The TM500 extender is the one that also fits the 5000 series, then?
mnem
Got the correct one ordered.
Sorry I got it wrong too.
Thanks to Factory for the spot and data sheet.
To be clear it's the amphenol 26-15-16S or P on TeK 500 scopes. The 26-4100 is used on some HP kit. I should have known better
I am going to jump on a tangent.
Does that mean the 560 series use Amphenol 26-4100-24P plug and S socket?
-- keeping my RM564 in mind...
No, if the pictures on Tek wiki are correct, needs the pin polarized connector, see the datasheet in my previous post.
I have no Tek 500 scopes, but do have other TE that uses the pin polarized variant, the Hickok DMS uses them for the plug-ins.
David
Sorry I got it wrong too.
Thanks to Factory for the spot and data sheet.
To be clear it's the amphenol 26-15-16S or P on TeK 500 scopes. The 26-4100 is used on some HP kit. I should have known better
No worries, we got it ironed out.
This saves dirty dawg and dusty dawg from potentially becoming a scrap unit.