Good grief...
I mean, seriously, how the fuck do you PAT a battery DMM? I would have frog-marched that twat off the premises
It was one of these, sat on top an Isotech mains/battery DMM.
Guessing by the technique of not doing a visual inspection and not connecting up the PAT machine and not doing what he was paid for.
I wish I could have evicted the twat from the premises, sadly the shop leaders are clueless too, they were informed but choose to let the twat correct the error, they invite the same morons back every year.
David
This
HP5335A from 1989 in full working condition is happy to join the
5335 page celebration, happily supported by a HP3325B from 1988.
And yes, they do cheat a little. Neither of them has the oven option. So the gen is running with the external 10 Mhz clock signal of the counter as the 'Ext Ref' LED reveals.
But to retrieve their honour: Without sync connection and after 10 min warm up only, the 5335 is only -2 HZ off at 5 MHz compared to the 3325. This equals about 10s a year which is 10 times more accurate as the web claims for good quartz clocks.
I got the 5335 with the original mighty full metal Paps fan which was heavily unbalanced and extremely noisy. Replaced it by a Sunon with equal air flow, which lowered the noise floor by 40dB.
And the Sunon is not a quiet guy either. Because of the mighty air flow, I added a mesh gauze at the inside of the sucking side panal to keep the dust out.
HP 435B RF power meter for £29.99 off eBay.
Of course, the RIFA capacitor did RIFA things at first power-up, taking the rare 32mm 63mA temporised fuse with it (costs half of what I paid for the meter), but after fix and clean-up makes for a nice back-up underneath the younger 437B.
Interesting, a 62mA 3AG fuse is much less than a 1/16A (62.5mA) one.
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0313.062MXP?qs=LpXnx4WbYtDxuA%2FdkAUmLw%3D%3DCheck the ref output with a DMM, Robert mentioned he had one with 20V of AC on the output.
David
Good grief...
I mean, seriously, how the fuck do you PAT a battery DMM? I would have frog-marched that twat off the premises
It was one of these, sat on top an Isotech mains/battery DMM.
Guessing by the technique of not doing a visual inspection and not connecting up the PAT machine and not doing what he was paid for.
I wish I could have evicted the twat from the premises, sadly the shop leaders are clueless too, they were informed but choose to let the twat correct the error, they invite the same morons back ever year.
David
I guess they are worried that anything that fails will be costly to remediate. I guess they also haven't factored in the cost of the fines the HSE might levy on them if someone gets seriously hurt due to an inadequately tested piece of equipment.
No they aren't, just not interested in doing things the correct way, think next time I catch them doing this stupidity, I should collect evidence, fill in the hazard forms and email a copy to people higher up.
David
Interesting, a 62mA 3AG fuse is much less than a 1/16A (62.5mA) one.
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0313.062MXP?qs=LpXnx4WbYtDxuA%2FdkAUmLw%3D%3D
Check the ref output with a DMM, Robert mentioned he had one with 20V of AC on the output.
David
Good point with the fuse, I'll put that in my next Mouser order, for now it's running on a cheap 125mA standard fuse I had in the junk box.
I did test the reference output with a 30dB attenuator first but good grief, that sounds like a terrible failure mode.
Also, pic of the sensors, I got the 8484A a couple of weeks back for another £30 or so as it's the rare APC-7 version no one wants. To push my luck even further, now I'm hoping to find a second cable (11730A or 8120-2263) for dirt cheap
.
Also, pic of the sensors, I got the 8484A a couple of weeks back for another £30 or so as it's the rare APC-7 version no one wants. To push my luck even further, now I'm hoping to find a second cable (11730A or 8120-2263) for dirt cheap .
Wow, where to get these sensors so cheaply? I have an HP436A without any sensors and cannot find any cheap sensors...
5335 Day!
Both GPS referenced.
3325A is fully optioned out. 5335A has had the service updates applied and one day I'll find/build the DMM option and some rack-mount handles, then it'll be optioned out too.
I need to find or make a new window for the display though, someone used something nasty to clean it and fogged it up a bit. My other 5335A has the window completely trashed, warped and cracked into two pieces for the same reason.
Wow, where to get these sensors so cheaply? I have an HP436A without any sensors and cannot find any cheap sensors...
I spend a lot of time on eBay and I like to play the "untested" lottery
.
In all honesty, the 8482A is the desirable one and I was lucky to get it bundled with the 437B from a business closing down.
The 8483A is 75ohm, it was listed as "not working" and sold for peanuts. I guess the seller didn't know the 75ohm version of the N connector has a thinner center pin that wouldn't make contact in 50ohm N connectors found on most gear.
The 8484A was listed as "unable to test" and I took the gamble, as the seller accepts returns. Works fine, but didn't come with the (impossible to find) precision 50MHz 30dB attenuator with N connector on one side and APC-7 on the other, needed to calibrate against the meter reference. HP branded N to APC-7 adaptors go for insane prices, chinese clones go for ~£20 and they seem to work OK up to (at least) low GHz, I might get another (genuinely dead) 8484A with N connector to swap to this one.
Also, pic of the sensors, I got the 8484A a couple of weeks back for another £30 or so as it's the rare APC-7 version no one wants. To push my luck even further, now I'm hoping to find a second cable (11730A or 8120-2263) for dirt cheap .
Wow, where to get these sensors so cheaply? I have an HP436A without any sensors and cannot find any cheap sensors...
There was a cheap 8478 on fleabay recently. The listing had a picture of text saying "don't bid but do send email enquires to...". The listing was removed quickly.
Personally I ignore any power meter that doesn't come with a cable and thermistor mount.
Picked one up at a hamfest for £20, and I'm now wondering how much I can flog it for on fleabay
I spend a lot of time on eBay and I like to play the "untested" lottery .
I always sell old equipment as "parts only" with the obvious reasons why. But I also put pictures showing it operating.
5335 Day!
Both GPS referenced.
3325A is fully optioned out. 5335A has had the service updates applied and one day I'll find/build the DMM option and some rack-mount handles, then it'll be optioned out too.
I need to find or make a new window for the display though, someone used something nasty to clean it and fogged it up a bit. My other 5335A has the window completely trashed, warped and cracked into two pieces for the same reason.
If it is 'just' scratches you can give the stuff below a try. I got my HP5342A display fixed using it. OK, it is more reflective than before I *gently* polished it but the irritating scratches are gone and it looks very neat indeed. Stay away of, say, car polish because that is too abrasive.
Wilko
Nah, it's gone deep into the plastic unfortunately, crazed it good and proper. If i had a source for an appropriately sized piece of red acrylic, I could make a new one myself (Use my vinyl cutter to make stencils to paint the markings on), but I'm still looking for some plastic of the correct size.
On the subject of power sensors, one use for busted sensors is to build a calibration rig for your power meter.
I'm currently designing one and will have the usual youtube video uploaded 'sometime later'... (don't hold your breath too long..)
Check the model 435A power meter manual for a schematic, and the HP 11683A for details.
Just feed the output of the voltage divider shown below into the power sensor PCB where the removed faulty thermocouple assembly used to connect.
I spend a lot of time on eBay and I like to play the "untested" lottery .
I always sell old equipment as "parts only" with the obvious reasons why. But I also put pictures showing it operating.
Don't bother with this one:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274575191501?It's an IFR sig gen sold by radio_mental (for when the link expires)
I know a local business went and looked at it prior to purchase and the output levels were all over the place. Not sure if it was attenuator or levelling. The seller was dismissive. They may have fixed it but from the warnings I doubt it. I'm also highly suspicious of this Fluke 8922A.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275743644956?Who can't do at least do a DC check to prove the thermal converter is OK? He could test this DC supply
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275716379612?Beware the seller who selectively tests their items.
Robert.
Don't bother with this one:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274575191501?
It's an IFR sig gen sold by radio_mental (for when the link expires)
I know a local business went and looked at it prior to purchase and the output levels were all over the place. Not sure if it was attenuator or levelling. The seller was dismissive. They may have fixed it but from the warnings I doubt it. I'm also highly suspicious of this Fluke 8922A.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275743644956?
Who can't do at least do a DC check to prove the thermal converter is OK? He could test this DC supply www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275716379612?
Beware the seller who selectively tests their items.
Robert.
That last one doesn't even have pictures of the item for sale "PHOTOS SHOW ITEM FROM PREVIOUS SALE" .
I think this HP 3200B is a tad overpriced
eBay auction: #175656343553, especially as it's missing a vital part, seller claims nothing is missing of course.
Clearly they haven't looked at the
rare manual that is with it.
David
I spend a lot of time on eBay and I like to play the "untested" lottery .
I always sell old equipment as "parts only" with the obvious reasons why. But I also put pictures showing it operating.
Don't bother with this one:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274575191501?
It's an IFR sig gen sold by radio_mental (for when the link expires)
I know a local business went and looked at it prior to purchase and the output levels were all over the place. Not sure if it was attenuator or levelling. The seller was dismissive. They may have fixed it but from the warnings I doubt it. I'm also highly suspicious of this Fluke 8922A.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275743644956?
Who can't do at least do a DC check to prove the thermal converter is OK? He could test this DC supply www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275716379612?
Beware the seller who selectively tests their items.
Robert.
Some of the items from this seller are, um, irritating. All used and tested, none have
pictures of them "working".
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403784803117 Text indicates various bits OK, inaccurate description of a control's purpose. I like Tek1502s, and know most of the ways they can
fail to work, e.g. NiCd battery. Without seeing a trace, I'll bet it is faulty in at least at least one difficult way. Even trying to merge two parts mules can be, er, trying.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404012588989 Refer to description - e.g. s/n 102084 description states "Warning: Missing mains input filter & connector. Powers on OK"
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404207145660 Tek 2565A, many things described as OK but also says "Very small dots inside front CRT glass". Riiight.
Some small CRT dots seems to be on top.
Metal grinding sparks can do those.
I'd pass anyway.
Some small CRT dots seems to be on top.
Metal grinding sparks can do those.
I'd pass anyway.
With a 24x5[AB], I'd presume the battery backed RAM had lost its calibration constants.
Not had much time to check out the new arrivals this weekend, the Yokogawa/HP inductors were as expected without the page of results shown in the old auction listing (not shown in ePay pics).
And the Data Precision 3500 arrived, looks in good condition, no obvious display faults (unlike the one in France I was watching on ePay), seems to be reading OK on volts with a quick check on the 6920B.
Also had a look inside the HP 6920B meter calibrator and decided it would benefit from a re-capicide, none are open but a few are getting higher in ESR and most seals are cracked (but no visible leakage).
Will spend a bit of time searching Mouser in the week for some nice
RIFA Kemet Yageo PEG capacitors, one already got changed a few years back and there was another bought
but not fitted, the Sprague 150D tants
will remain.
Interesting brand name for a trannystor.
David
My morbid curiosity wonders how much of an improvement replacing all those carbon composite resistors with 1% 50ppm metal films will have on stability?....
5335 day - am I too late?
Here is mine checking a homemade reference in an older relative.
Also, how do I post an proper in line photo?Edited to adjust photo - Thanks, Tautech!
Also, how do I post an proper in line photo?
Copy the URL of the thumbnail you uploaded, edit your post and use the Insert Image button and paste the URL between the IMG flags.
My morbid curiosity wonders how much of an improvement replacing all those carbon composite resistors with 1% 50ppm metal films will have on stability?....
Hopefully, the output stability won't depend in any significant way on the performance of the carbon composition resistors. There ought to be only metal film or wire-wound resistors in the critical parts of the circuitry that determine the calibrator accuracy.
Despite that I always go through and check every carbon composition resistor in older equipment and replace those that are outside their rated tolerance. Often I find that many have deviated, usually upwards, more than 10%-20% from their nominal values. My reasoning for replacing such out-of-tolerance resistors is that the original engineer would have likely assessed the performance allowing for the expected resistor tolerance range and that any deviation outside that range could cause the circuit function to be sub-standard.
However, I generally don't check every carbon-film resistor unless there is visible evidence of overheating.