Huh... according to the relevant wiki, Ciabatta is a modern (80s) invention... created in response to the popularity of baguettes.
Ummmmm... FAIL!
Don't get me wrong... I like a juicy grilled steak & onion with a nice aged Parmesan on Ciabatta... but as a substitute for baguettes, especially with wine & cheese or with my coffee...? That's like bringing a salami to a gunfight.
mnem
Just say no to crappy baguette.Meh!--- I like a good old German Rye slathered with liverwurst, then covered with sweet gherkins!
Trouble is, that back in the day, everybody produced it, but it has gone out of fashion in Oz.
I've always thought of "Reverse Polish" as referring to what you do when you take your freshly waxed car down salt-encrusted winter roads.No, that's Reverse polish.
...One of the "resistors" is from a positive supply voltage (28V) to the upper board, feeding two LM339 and 7 custom hybrids. I am measuring about 8V, so the current should be abt. 20mA. The voltage is not stable, so I doubt this is intended. Using normal colour code I would get a resistance of 0.1Ohm, but I will not feed the 28V directly to the board, possibly frying all the hybrids made of pure unobtainium.
I've always thought of "Reverse Polish" as referring to what you do when you take your freshly waxed car down salt-encrusted winter roads.
No, that's Reverse polish.
Currently I have found two parts that *seem* to be resistors, but that does not make a lot of sense in that position *and* the colour code would not match. On the same board there are 1k resistors with the usual marking brown-black-red-gold.
See the photo attached, the red circled "resistors" marked brown-black-gold-gold measures as 1k (colour code would mean 0.1Ohm), the yellow circled one too (which is expected). There are *two* of those strange parts on the board. Any hints?
Inductor? Which would make it 1uH 5%. However, I would not expect the series resistance to be anything like 1k for a typical inductor*. I'd want to see a decent chunk of the schematic drawn out before I wanted to make any informed guesses about what the components were when they were first put on the board.
...One of the "resistors" is from a positive supply voltage (28V) to the upper board, feeding two LM339 and 7 custom hybrids. I am measuring about 8V, so the current should be abt. 20mA. The voltage is not stable, so I doubt this is intended. Using normal colour code I would get a resistance of 0.1Ohm, but I will not feed the 28V directly to the board, possibly frying all the hybrids made of pure unobtainium.Inductor? Maybe remove one and pop it on the cheap Chinese component tester?
mnem
I have a repair question.
I am trying to repair a programmer module from the 80ies. German manufacturer Kontron. I am struggeling with a totally undocumented (besides operation) stack of two multilayer boards that does not work as expected. The firmware emits errors on start. That board worked long ago but stopped quite some time ago, now I am trying to revive it. I am reverse engineering parts of its schematics (which is a PITA, as I found after a while that some ground connections of the bottom board are made through the upper board, so you will not find them with the lower board only).
Currently I have found two parts that *seem* to be resistors, but that does not make a lot of sense in that position *and* the colour code would not match. On the same board there are 1k resistors with the usual marking brown-black-red-gold.
See the photo attached, the red circled "resistors" marked brown-black-gold-gold measures as 1k (colour code would mean 0.1Ohm), the yellow circled one too (which is expected). There are *two* of those strange parts on the board. Any hints?
One of the "resistors" is from a positive supply voltage (28V) to the upper board, feeding two LM339 and 7 custom hybrids. I am measuring about 8V, so the current should be abt. 20mA. The voltage is not stable, so I doubt this is intended. Using normal colour code I would get a resistance of 0.1Ohm, but I will not feed the 28V directly to the board, possibly frying all the hybrids made of pure unobtainium.
I have a repair question.
I am trying to repair a programmer module from the 80ies. German manufacturer Kontron. I am struggeling with a totally undocumented (besides operation) stack of two multilayer boards that does not work as expected. The firmware emits errors on start. That board worked long ago but stopped quite some time ago, now I am trying to revive it. I am reverse engineering parts of its schematics (which is a PITA, as I found after a while that some ground connections of the bottom board are made through the upper board, so you will not find them with the lower board only).
Currently I have found two parts that *seem* to be resistors, but that does not make a lot of sense in that position *and* the colour code would not match. On the same board there are 1k resistors with the usual marking brown-black-red-gold.
See the photo attached, the red circled "resistors" marked brown-black-gold-gold measures as 1k (colour code would mean 0.1Ohm), the yellow circled one too (which is expected). There are *two* of those strange parts on the board. Any hints?
One of the "resistors" is from a positive supply voltage (28V) to the upper board, feeding two LM339 and 7 custom hybrids. I am measuring about 8V, so the current should be abt. 20mA. The voltage is not stable, so I doubt this is intended. Using normal colour code I would get a resistance of 0.1Ohm, but I will not feed the 28V directly to the board, possibly frying all the hybrids made of pure unobtainium.
My guess: inductors or very low value resistors, but I tend to inductors.
Why?
Look at the traces. There are thick and thin ones. Thick traces are carrying usually
higher currents so the inductors are here for decoupling the current spikes of the digital logic stuff.
I cannot imagine, why there should be low valued resistors. For what purpose? Measuring currents?
If I had to bet on anything, my packet of gummibears would go on the inductors.
My guess: inductors or very low value resistors, but I tend to inductors.
Why?
Look at the traces. There are thick and thin ones. Thick traces are carrying usually
higher currents so the inductors are here for decoupling the current spikes of the digital logic stuff.
I cannot imagine, why there should be low valued resistors. For what purpose? Measuring currents?
If I had to bet on anything, my packet of gummibears would go on the inductors.
INDUCTORS !!!
I don't know, every body says inductors, so why not me ?!
Thanks for your feedback on the tape label printer thingies. So looks like the most important advice is to run away from "direct thermal" that like shitty thermal printed receipts at the super market, and favour "thermal transfer", as in "laser printer toner transfer". More durable.
Looks like according to the Dwagon, there are indeed some printer with a USB port to let you download your own custom graphics/icons... will try to find one that does that, but will only consider sub 50 Euros printers...
I looked at a few for sale online here, and it seems they ALL use NON rechargeable batteries ?!
So since it gets used infrequently usually... batteries are self discharged by the time you dig out the printer... so you need to buy new batteries every time you want to use it, pretty much... how economical and eco-friendly In this day and age they can't just use a Li-on battery charged via USB port like everybody else ?!
I'll bring the beer and a big chunk of pig. (I know the way to a German boy's heart. )What...you'll take British beer to a German boy are you crazy or what? German beer is among the world's finest, they have purity laws over there for their beers
I'm not carrying beer (or half a pig) all that way when they've got perfectly good local stuff. Not that all German beer is great, it's quite possible to get a Maß of insipid, national brewery beer in Germany, just like you can here. "Bitte ein Bit?" - nein danke. Thankfully, the Germans have been a bit more insistent than us in keeping their local breweries alive and kicking and generally if you drink what's brewed locally you can't go wrong.
I could never abide "Lowenbrau", although others loved it.
INDUCTORS !!!
I don't know, every body says inductors, so why not me ?!
Thanks for your feedback on the tape label printer thingies. So looks like the most important advice is to run away from "direct thermal" that like shitty thermal printed receipts at the super market, and favour "thermal transfer", as in "laser printer toner transfer". More durable.
Looks like according to the Dwagon, there are indeed some printer with a USB port to let you download your own custom graphics/icons... will try to find one that does that, but will only consider sub 50 Euros printers...
I looked at a few for sale online here, and it seems they ALL use NON rechargeable batteries ?!
So since it gets used infrequently usually... batteries are self discharged by the time you dig out the printer... so you need to buy new batteries every time you want to use it, pretty much... how economical and eco-friendly In this day and age they can't just use a Li-on battery charged via USB port like everybody else ?!
Someone on the UKVRR radio forum bought a Brother P-Touch H101GB recently, it was sold as battery only, but on opening it they found a DC barrel socket was already fitted, but the casing design had been modified to blank off the connector. They said the barrel socket was centre negative, but check just in case.
Unfortunately the thread is in the modern tech section and hidden for non-members with less than 10 posts, so a web link would be pointless.
David
I have a repair question.
I am trying to repair a programmer module from the 80ies. German manufacturer Kontron. I am struggeling with a totally undocumented (besides operation) stack of two multilayer boards that does not work as expected. The firmware emits errors on start. That board worked long ago but stopped quite some time ago, now I am trying to revive it. I am reverse engineering parts of its schematics (which is a PITA, as I found after a while that some ground connections of the bottom board are made through the upper board, so you will not find them with the lower board only).
Currently I have found two parts that *seem* to be resistors, but that does not make a lot of sense in that position *and* the colour code would not match. On the same board there are 1k resistors with the usual marking brown-black-red-gold.
See the photo attached, the red circled "resistors" marked brown-black-gold-gold measures as 1k (colour code would mean 0.1Ohm), the yellow circled one too (which is expected). There are *two* of those strange parts on the board. Any hints?
One of the "resistors" is from a positive supply voltage (28V) to the upper board, feeding two LM339 and 7 custom hybrids. I am measuring about 8V, so the current should be abt. 20mA. The voltage is not stable, so I doubt this is intended. Using normal colour code I would get a resistance of 0.1Ohm, but I will not feed the 28V directly to the board, possibly frying all the hybrids made of pure unobtainium.
INDUCTORS !!!
I don't know, every body says inductors, so why not me ?!
Thanks for your feedback on the tape label printer thingies. So looks like the most important advice is to run away from "direct thermal" that like shitty thermal printed receipts at the super market, and favour "thermal transfer", as in "laser printer toner transfer". More durable.
Looks like according to the Dwagon, there are indeed some printer with a USB port to let you download your own custom graphics/icons... will try to find one that does that, but will only consider sub 50 Euros printers...
I looked at a few for sale online here, and it seems they ALL use NON rechargeable batteries ?!
So since it gets used infrequently usually... batteries are self discharged by the time you dig out the printer... so you need to buy new batteries every time you want to use it, pretty much... how economical and eco-friendly In this day and age they can't just use a Li-on battery charged via USB port like everybody else ?!
Someone on the UKVRR radio forum bought a Brother P-Touch H101GB recently, it was sold as battery only, but on opening it they found a DC barrel socket was already fitted, but the casing design had been modified to blank off the connector. They said the barrel socket was centre negative, but check just in case.
Unfortunately the thread is in the modern tech section and hidden for non-members with less than 10 posts, so a web link would be pointless.
DavidAh yes, the Brother P-touch (there are hundreds of "P-touch" variations it seems... ) do indeed have a jack.
I am looking a this website of a French office supplies store chain. They have a store in my town so am thinking of getting there Monday to get a printer.
They have a P-touch similar to that of your buddy on the forum :
https://www.bureau-vallee.fr/titreuse-brother-pth110-3-5-a-30mm-178005.html
The description of the product openly, explicitly states that indeed it can be powered with a plug pack (though it is not supplied with the device).
It's better than wasting money and polluting with many batteries... I admit, but it still is a far cry from having a modern Li-on battery with a USB port to recharge it conveniently... so I still wonder why it is so !
My only assumption, though I have no clue really... is that maybe the printing process, thermal thingy, must be power hungry, and since this is low voltage... it means it requires a fair bit of current, in a steady supply while printing ? So maybe a small Li-ion battery is not capable of providing, or sustaining, the required current .. but AAA batteries can ?
I don't know... but I don't see why they would torture people, their wallet, and the environment, with AAA... if they could do other wise ?!
So that one I just linked above looks good to me ?! Says "Thermal TRANSFER "not thermal "direct" so... looks like the good kind of printer, if I understood all of you well.
It can also take several different sizes/width of tapes. 6/9/12.
Has the DC in jack as we just discussed, which is a plus.
Has a nice full AZERTY keyboard as well.
Is fast, 20mm/sec , the cheapest Dymo is 3 times slower or so.
Cost 30 Euros.
I am also tempted by the competing / comparable model by Dymo (also Thermal Transfer + AZERTY K/B ):
https://www.bureau-vallee.fr/titreuse-dymo-lm160-6-a-12mm-62509.html
.. mainly because it uses different tape formats : can do 6 / 10 and 13mm wide. Yes... 10mm, exactly the size I need to get the most out of the real estate available on the drawer fronts....
So I am torn !
However it does not say about speed of DC input jack... I guess I could go the Dymo's website to go check out the details...