Yes, it was "Holy fuckadoodle!" that had me chortling earlier I too was thinking it would make a good cuss word
I got one of those little scopes, ideal for that type of thing, will work of a 9v and although have a low bandwidth are ideal use on low stuff like cars and audio where often you just need to confirm if a signal is present or not.
I'm skulking around since some time on one of those Vellemans Handheld scopes: https://www.velleman.eu/products/view?id=431482&country=be&lang=en nice little things....
I'm a big fan of German engineering. They come up with some innovative, clever, and technologically leading designs. But there are two things they seem to forget. One.....serviceability. Example: Certain model Audi's where you have to disassemble the ENTIRE front end of the car to do the mandatory replacement of the timing belt. And my oldest son is the collision manager for a local BMW dealership. Some of things they have to do to fix BMW's just leaves me shaking my head. Second.....why are some designs so needlessly complex when a simpler solution will work just fine? Called the KISS principle.....Keep It Simple Stupid.
Think we should all buy a Land Rover defender. The broken bits fall off when they're ready to be replaced Was considering buying one again recently.
Think we should all buy a Land Rover defender. The broken bits fall off when they're ready to be replaced
Was considering buying one again recently.
Fuck that, fixed it myself with some contortion and some pain killers afterwards
In the meantime I suppose you could try probing with the 12AX7 out of circuit; see if the 60hz noise you're "seeing everywhere" goes away. [EDIT] I just tripped over this while looking for something else. [/EDIT] eBay auction: #362619939251
mnem
*tinker-ily*Ask and you shall receive. I didn't realize it but the Heath S-3 has two 12AX7's in it. So I reconfigured the OL-1 filament for AC volts and swapped out the 12AX7. No joy, still FUBAR. So that rules out all the tubes as the source of the 60Hz hum. So I'm going to proceed with the redesign of the filament for DCV.
When we are going to assemble the high voltage power supply for the anode of the GU81-M, we got a security advice from our Prof.: "Be careful, when you are handling with that capacitor. The energy in it can kill a cow instantly." And that was all he wrote.
Btw, the capacitor was one of those paraffine filled ones with 3.5kV max voltage and a capacity of about 4.7µF. We were running the GU81-M with 2500V.
This is a similiar looking example: We had a lot of fun.
Mounty
Sounds like old man Kirsch... who, after we put LV electrolytics in the outlet strips on his bench, adjusted our attitudes by relocating those caps to OUR workbenches (of course he knew who the perpetrators were by that time) and turning them off at the breaker box behind the door, where he could set them off for best effect during workbook time.
I was the only one who noticed the caps BEFORE the fireworks... because I actually followed his lab checklist EVERY TIME and MADE SURE of what was plugged into the power strip, and that it was turned OFF before I sat down.
"I'm going to have to watch you, young man." was all he said.
Ugh never start a project on a Friday night. Decided I'd refurb a 40m DC receiver I built a couple of years ago. Turned into one of those nightmares where I spent 3 hours in the cupboard trying to find shit and then 30 minutes actually doing the project. More clear out required!
Receiver works nicely now. Not bad little thing. From EMRFD, sample chapter with it in here: http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Product%20Notes/chapter_1.pdf .. Mine has an extra 600Hz sharp filter in it which is 3x LF411 bandpass filters but that isn't necessary for casual use.
Tuning it is a bitch but I was too cheap and demotivated to build a reduction drive into it. Version 2 will have one at some point. I have one stashed now.
One of the small engine workshop tricks when I twisted spanners for a bit was to charge up Bosch points caps on the SEM ignition tester and gracefully lob them at a mate to catch. ZAP ! Gottcha !
I've got a big transmitter (does 80W out CW and eats MOSFETs faster than the cheap wung hung lo switcher that pumps it full of electrons)
That's a rather nice antenna that. Very professional installation too . Is there anything other than FT8 on 50m? The club local to me have a beam and get literally bugger all on it whatsoever. It's not particularly high up though.
Anybody in UK near London ? https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/moving-house-free-gear/
I've got a big transmitter (does 80W out CW and eats MOSFETs faster than the cheap wung hung lo switcher that pumps it full of electrons)
That's a rather nice antenna that. Very professional installation too . Is there anything other than FT8 on 50m? The club local to me have a beam and get literally bugger all on it whatsoever. It's not particularly high up though.
Thanks. I still have to get up there tomorrow morning and finish a few things - got too hot. It's on top of a pretty El-Cheapo RCA TV rotator that Lowes was closing out last year. But for now it works. It's not a very good design. After you initialize it by telling it to go back to Zero, it only estimates where it is pointed due to the time the CW or CCW button was presesed. If you try pressing the buttons too fast, it doesn't have a clue where the f*ck it is LOL.
What's on 6M? Not much. You can make SSB contacts and FT8 contacts. There used to be a 6M repeater around town but haven't heard anyone talk of it in years. I'm trying to get a WAS (Worked All States) on 6m the last few years. I need 10 more states - two of which are Alaska and Hawaii. That is where I hope the beam will help.
Up the road from that forum member here. However I need none of it .. reputable individual if you want anything.
I’d have the Anritsu but it’s big, heavy and difficult to unfuck.
Anybody in UK near London ? https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/moving-house-free-gear/Thanks for the heads up, my PM is in already, fingers crossed.
Couldn't resist an HP 6296a - in not bad shape - ended up for $ AUD 73, 60V 3A. Down-under prices are pretty high.
My one nasty connection with the national grid (230v) unfortunately gripped my hand onto the DUT and the power - only way I could let it go was to throw the whole assembly (an amp) across the room, the connection point burnt into my left thumb about 3mm, I still have the scar. I have a lot of respect for anything over 60V. Earthing, earth leakage detection, a foot operated 'dead man pedal' (ie take your foot off and the circuit de-powers) are now essential in my book.
Imagine that, buying a piece of test gear that I don't have to tear open and repair before using it.