Hey @Brumby want to raise the blood pressure of SHMBO 'some more'
Needs some love but if it was closer I would find a place for it in the toy collection eBay auction: #193188410543
(Added to my Watch list. )
Seems @Brumby has a new toy and by some evilbay sleuthing may have bid on another item of TEA too You cannot hide ......
Just in time... should I do something on that exposed copper? Epoxy?
Mmmmmmm LEDs... snagged a Solartron/Schlumberger 7065 in the early hours of the morning (late for work as a result
) for £62 shipped, also a pair of Minimus 11 speakers to go with my very old but very loved Minimus 7s.
I'm seriously considering buying a 3D printer (you lot are a terrible influence!), and am soliciting opinions on the merits of UV vs FDP, given that I'd like the best precision I can get when making potentially very small parts.
The results I have seem coming from them look great but like all SLA/Resin type printers the cleanup and post curing sucks to a greater or lesser degree depending on your usage.
If you want to load up to produce a 'single' widget say 20x20x50 you still need to load the tank and after the print clean the tank and printer totally. Add to that post cleaning and curing of the print. Meanwhile allowing for the reduction in surface finish the FDM printer is likely done several hours before and the print in use.
If you want to run the 'same' resin and produce several widgets back to back then the cleanup time and post processing time will reduce so it will have less of an impact.
By products of SLA and disposal. Contaminated IPA that really shouldn't be reused with different resins and even then it will contain residue from past use if you try to reuse it sometime later. Contaminated gloves and wasted resin to little to use for another print. Take the view of bury or burn it and it is someone elses problem :evil: or consider what cost or inconvienience it is to get rid of these items.
Will I maybe get an SLA printer - maybe to unlikely. They do have a place but go in with your eyes open.
I'm seriously considering buying a 3D printer (you lot are a terrible influence!), and am soliciting opinions on the merits of UV vs FDP, given that I'd like the best precision I can get when making potentially very small parts.[/b]
Propane tanks for an N scale model railroad, 0.4mm nozzle.
(Attachment Link)
Just in time... should I do something on that exposed copper? Epoxy?
With rotten shellac on still-good copper like that (all those "dark" areas of Shellac over copper are "rotten"), leaving it will just result in the rot spreading; but you have to balance the need to repair against the possibility of damaging a trace. Correct solution is to mask off the edges of the trace with something like Kapton tape to protect the substrate, use fine steel wool to scrub all rotten shellac off a section of trace leaving shiny copper, then remove the masking and move to the next area of trace until it is all either clear shellac or shiny copper.
After that, clean with IPA and paint with new shellac or clear fingernail polish. Epoxy is also perfectly fine, I've used it in a pinch; just be sure to make a thin coating using a flattened & cut-off Q-Tip stick or coffee stirrer as a squeegee.
If i have any doubts as to whether the thickness of the trace has been compromised by acid etching, I consider reinforcing with wire or tinning the trace. This is best done by applying rosin to the shiny cleaned copper trace, then starting at a solder pad and adding a fair blob of solder, then dragging the iron across the bare copper through the flux. Work a little hot & as fast as you can to avoid lumps and to avoid damaging the trace/substrate bond. This requires a fair amount of practice and soldering skill; you need to practice a lot on junk boards to get your technique down pat. After the trace is tinned, clean up the solder pad areas where you started tinning from and paint the trace as above.
mnem
moo...?
From the "Perversity of the Universe Tends to the Maximum" Dept...
It just sits there, mocking me...
It mocks me; and I am mocked.
Decades I've had that Minimus-7 speaker in my possession... so many moves, and over a decade I've been looking for a mate to it, figuring that when Ifni deigned for it to be so, one would manifest in a thrift or flea market at a price I couldn't refuse.
Until a couple months ago... when I gave up and sent it to med in a "care package". Flash forward to now... and what should mystically appear on my thrift RADAR...?
Yup. Even better condition, and CAD$3.99...
mnem
Okay, okay... Ifni has spoken. I shall have one Minimus-7 speaker; no more, no less.
3D printed bombs. Now there’s an idea
For once I cut the antenna waaaay too long instead of too short.
3D printed bombs. Now there’s an idea
Whoops, bd139 just found himself on another watchlist.
the different from a museum to a well cared collection is: The most old instruments in a museum are clean, inside dirty, and of coarse not working. This is a problem.
I have saved a wonderful old computersystem, and changed there for a lot of money elkos to make it running again. Now, the Maya have started allready, but the WAF (womens acceptance factor) for a multiprozessor Unix mashine is smaller then zero, so I asked some museum if the are interested. But not one of them want to give me the pay for the spares I have used to make it running. It is complete, including document, licences for the OS and the May and so on, and not a penny, this is our time. I will find a way to put the little ONYX2 also in this work room, to play with the amazing grafix ("reality engine"). Not museum.
I'm stuck in a similar conundrum with one of these: A Heath-Zenith Z-120 (only with working 5GB Winchester drive) that has been in my possession for 15 years. I had it working 100% about 10 years ago; however the usual "dried-out caps" failure mode has claimed it as another victim, and I just couldn't make it to the top of my repair que in all that time due to assache factor and cost of parts...
I've seen oodles of articles where a collector or small museum space has spent the time & money to buy and restore one of these seminal works of computer history... but every time I try, I simply cannot find ANY ONE OF THEM willing to even pay the cost of shipping. So yet again, it goes into storage to be dealt with on another day...
mnem
*mocked*
Most of the FDM printers can get to similar resolution. Standard is 0.4mm nozzles and 0.2mm layers. 0.1mm Layer is fairly easy to go and dropping the nozzle size to 0.3 works and you can get 0.2 (tough to get it working well)
3D printed bombs. Now there’s an idea
Whoops, bd139 just found himself on another watchlist.Hey, welcome back Cerebus, looks like you've been lurking in the background reading the posts but not actually contributing all that much and then when you do, you nail it just like that .
I see that, in my temporary absence, Med has gone from a quite understandable obsession with Tek blue to a worrying one with Smurfette blue. One shudders to think where this may end up. It's the sort of think that can lead to dressing up in furry costumes and meeting with like minded people in smoky dive bars or seedy hotel rooms. Marginally acceptable as a detour in the young when they're at that "finding themselves" stage, but distinctly unnatural in men of our age unless they are judges, politicians or any of the occupations where the holder went to a certain class of school, one of a particular set of universities and had a nanny.
How did I manage to become so (in)famous???