Battery replacement
(Attachment Link)
My 427A I think had the same battery but luckily also had 240V power
There is a replacement available but an Arm, 1/2 a leg and one Kidney was the price.....
I will check the battery current in running instrumt (feed by ext. PSU at the clips)
so the multimeter collection have something to do.
It will help to select a battery spare.
2x 9V Block Lithium for smoke detectors, can be a solution.
The little instrument have Opt.1 = PSU so the battery is only for on the road.
Testing R is also possible without battery inside.
15x AA in 3x5 arrangement
When I had one I was going to put a 4 cell AA pack in and a boost converter.
It uses virtually no current apart from in the low resistance ranges.
Keep it in your pocket, there's a reason it didn't catch on, probably because it was not very reliable or it sucked otherwise it would still be around today.
didn't catch on? really?
I am sorry sir, but I must take issue. LGA 1366 / X58 is one of the longest lived enthusiast platforms ever. Still quite capable today, 10 years on.
I will admit that the triple channel RAM setup is a bit of an oddity as a stepping stone to quad channel architecture, but an overclocked X58 setup is nothing to sniff at to this day.
Lots of guys plopping cheap surplus hexcore Bloomfield chips in and clocking the bejeesus out of them https://hardforum.com/threads/1366-x58-xeon-enthusiast-overclocks-club.1820772/
My main battlestation here is still a watercooled i7 970 @ 4.1GHz 48GB DDR3 in triple channel booting off a Samsung NVMe. First built it 11 years ago...no complaints.
Oh, and one more benefit, the last platform without UEFI, so they can never prevent me from running linux on it.
Sir, you misunderstood me, its not the LGA, I was referring to but the 3 channel memory which never really caught on, it jumped straight to 4 channel
Oh happy happy joy joy. Turned on my PM3217 this morning and lost the transformer
. Primary appears to have gone open. It was a loud humming variety so perhaps something was up with it or an internal fuse is gone. Fortunately it’s got a fully DC 24-28V secondary so I’ll jump it with the PL330QMD at the moment and chuck an SMPS module or new toroidal transformer in it.
Commiserations.
I haven't had anything blow up or me stuff up for a fortnight - so I am in for a bad run soon.
I won't say anything to jinx myself.
Probably too late.
Having tek stuff around means inevitable failure
Found a 24V 3A meanwell lump in the cupboard. Going to see if I can retrofit it to the scope
Edit: well that was easy. There is a 2.1mm DC jack on the back, albeit wired so that negative is in the middle. Used my K2 charging lead with the PL330 and sorted.
It doesn't take a whole lot of power. 1A at 24V when graticule illumination is on. 850mA when it's not.
Zucca, not sure if it will be helpful, but the nozzles that fit my old Yihua 858D also fit the Quick 957DW. They have the same screw/nut to tighten it to the nozzle.
So are the Yihua 858D nozzles ca. 24mm diameter?
Thanks Grey, if you have 5 minutes can you post a pic in the next days? I fully believe you I am curious to see how it looks like at the end...
Many Thanks in advance from cold Germany.
Zucca, as you can see, they are not 24 mm but they do fit fine.
Oh happy happy joy joy. Turned on my PM3217 this morning and lost the transformer . Primary appears to have gone open. It was a loud humming variety so perhaps something was up with it or an internal fuse is gone. Fortunately it’s got a fully DC 24-28V secondary so I’ll jump it with the PL330QMD at the moment and chuck an SMPS module or new toroidal transformer in it.
Oh, thats a bummer but, as say with the DC system all coming from the source like that, it is easier to resolve on a temporary basis. I think it has a thermal fuse embedded in the winding so it has probably been subjected to a reduced airflow at some recently and overheated. The Teac audio units employ that method and if anything gets stacked on top of, blocking the air vents, the thermal fuse pops open and disconnects the supply. The only solution is to replace the transformer which is more than likely unobtainium so a donor machine is required.
Of course, with this and that neon sign transformer, now I need to get myself a voltmeter that can read 10 or 15kV... [/color][/b]
I do have one, but they aren't common.
You can also consider a HV probe attachment for any 10Mohm meter; they are fairly easy to come by at auction or new for ~£75.
I might just make a voltage divider so I can use one of my usual meters.
Oh that reminds me, I need some recommendations for HV epoxy for sealing terminations on stuff like this.
I might just make a voltage divider so I can use one of my usual meters.
Oh that reminds me, I need some recommendations for HV epoxy for sealing terminations on stuff like this.
At those voltages materials behave "strangely". There's a chance you might find the full voltage in places you don't want it.
Useful source:
http://hvstuff.com/
Oh happy happy joy joy. Turned on my PM3217 this morning and lost the transformer . Primary appears to have gone open. It was a loud humming variety so perhaps something was up with it or an internal fuse is gone. Fortunately it’s got a fully DC 24-28V secondary so I’ll jump it with the PL330QMD at the moment and chuck an SMPS module or new toroidal transformer in it.
Oh, thats a bummer but, as say with the DC system all coming from the source like that, it is easier to resolve on a temporary basis. I think it has a thermal fuse embedded in the winding so it has probably been subjected to a reduced airflow at some recently and overheated. The Teac audio units employ that method and if anything gets stacked on top of, blocking the air vents, the thermal fuse pops open and disconnects the supply. The only solution is to replace the transformer which is more than likely unobtainium so a donor machine is required.
Might be possible to open the transformer and have a look inside? With a bit of luck, the thermal fuse might be accessible somehow...
Working my way through the Heathkit C3U and all the caps on it check out OK but the resistors have drifted massively thus maybe accounting for the differing voltages so last night I made a list of what I needed and ordered from a local seller on eBay. Only lives a couple of streets away and today, he kindly popped the order through my letter box. I think that such excellent service needs to shouted about when it happens, so here goes, the seller goes under the name of MS Graphics. I have used them on a number of occasions and can highly recommend them.
Anyway apart from the resistors drifting, I also noted some changes from the schematic, these being on 5V, 25V and 150V settings which schematic shows should have 2.2K, 8.2K and 22K fitted but actually had 1.1K (giving me 3V), 37.3K (91.5V) and 6.9K (108V), so it will be interesting to see what the end results will be once the new ones are fitted, all are 1%, old ones were 10%. Photos to follow.
2x 9V Block Lithium for smoke detectors, can be a solution.
The little instrument have Opt.1 = PSU so the battery is only for on the road.
Testing R is also possible without battery inside.
Mine runs on mains only in the shop. It also came with option "01". There was an Eveready in it when I got it, probably the original as fitted on delivery. Completely dead, but no leakage.
For portable I'm finding myself using the 974A more and more. Been chasing an intermittent error in the emissions sensor/actuator circuitry in the car, it's due for inspection and I'd like to go there without a problem light on.. A cable that can go from 0,3Ω to 6Ω and back at it's own will, fitted to an engine, yay.
Hahaha.
Ok so I felt sorry for that cute HM307 and bought it
Totally useless 10MHz single channel scope but it has CT and XY features. It'll probably end up as a display for various simple low frequency analogue things i build.
Edit: did i say it was cute. It's cute. That's the excuse
Hands up anyone who's surprised.....
** crickets **
Every mother sez their baby is cute.
Do I spy some hash or noise on that base line trace or is it just dirt on the screen?
I might just make a voltage divider so I can use one of my usual meters.
Oh that reminds me, I need some recommendations for HV epoxy for sealing terminations on stuff like this.
You are a whole lot braver than I am. No way would you catch me fooling around with something like that.
And as mentioned. Get one of these:
Oh happy happy joy joy. Turned on my PM3217 this morning and lost the transformer . Primary appears to have gone open. It was a loud humming variety so perhaps something was up with it or an internal fuse is gone. Fortunately it’s got a fully DC 24-28V secondary so I’ll jump it with the PL330QMD at the moment and chuck an SMPS module or new toroidal transformer in it.
Oh, thats a bummer but, as say with the DC system all coming from the source like that, it is easier to resolve on a temporary basis. I think it has a thermal fuse embedded in the winding so it has probably been subjected to a reduced airflow at some recently and overheated. The Teac audio units employ that method and if anything gets stacked on top of, blocking the air vents, the thermal fuse pops open and disconnects the supply. The only solution is to replace the transformer which is more than likely unobtainium so a donor machine is required.
Might be possible to open the transformer and have a look inside? With a bit of luck, the thermal fuse might be accessible somehow...
it probably is. I can't be arsed with it at the moment. I'm hoping another spares unit comes along via ebay or hamfests this year first.
The transformer was quite a noisy one so I reckon it was on its last legs anyway. It's completely silent now with no hint of any noise at all.