you alsohad those 12” once black and rond andthey produce music
Those are back! (And compact cassettes seem to be trying to make a revival.)
omg... dont tell me i need to look in old boxes for my 8 track
No, you don't. The record is iconic, and
it has its own fan club based on the inconvenience.
The
blog I ripped the image from talks about the "the tea ceremony of playback" and there is something to it. I've got a Technics SL1000 in full broadcast attire, including a sturdy wheeled cart and the integrated RIAA amp, fader start, and balanced output.
I don't very often play records on it, probably once a week, whereas I listen to Spotify much more frequently. But it is there.
Analog-in-being one might say.
The 8-track and the Philips invention the Compact Cassette are irrelevant. They are so completely obsolete. And from having to deal with alleged (mostly dancers) talent and their C-120 (i.e. tape salad prone) "performance-ready" backing tapes, apparently recorded on a boom box through the internal microphone, listening to a plastic record players 3" speaker, all while enjoying the severe modulation artefacts of an AGC worse than that of commercial broadcasters , i
hate them. I do.
... guess I'm NOT as metric as I though I was.
Yet MORE reason the DFU must die!!!
I think wholly imperial for screens' diagonal size, bass loudspeakers, construction nails, and, in the spirit of Larry Haun; "tubafor". I might refer to IEC 60297 enclosures as 19" racks, in passing. I've got UNC, UNF, UNEF, BSP, BSPT, BSF, BA and Whitworth fasteners and associated hardware. They mostly are handled with their native measurement units, but never without a mental envelope calculation involving multiplication or division with 2,54.
The rest is metric. Especially in the kitchen. Fuck ounces and gallons.
in beer i prefer gallons not liters
Rough and ready conversion:
F = (C x 2) + 30
C = (F - 30)/2
Eg the 38C bd139 posted a few days back 76 + 30 ~= 106F
But don't use them when taking your temperature! 37C is fine, but 104F isn't!
Easiest formulae to
remember are based on -40C=-40F
C = (F+40)*5/9-40
F = (C+40)*9/5-40
Rough and ready conversion:
F = (C x 2) + 30
C = (F - 30)/2
Eg the 38C bd139 posted a few days back 76 + 30 ~= 106F
But don't use them when taking your temperature! 37C is fine, but 104F isn't!
Easiest formulae to remember are based on -40C=-40F
C = (F+40)*5/9-40
F = (C+40)*9/5-40
40+ years back when NZ went metric is where my rough and ready conversion originated and it's too long ago to remember from whom or where.
Back then when C temps were foisted upon us the quick conversion was to double them and add 30 which is very easily remembered.
Again, double C + 30....it's so simple.....not entirely accurate but it gave us something we could better relate to.
How it's stuck with me all those years, dunno.
Don't care.
30 degrees to me means wear a jacket, not stripping down to your underwear.
I let Google do the conversion if I
REALLY need to.
Rough and ready conversion:
F = (C x 2) + 30
C = (F - 30)/2
Eg the 38C bd139 posted a few days back 76 + 30 ~= 106F
But don't use them when taking your temperature! 37C is fine, but 104F isn't!
Easiest formulae to remember are based on -40C=-40F
C = (F+40)*5/9-40
F = (C+40)*9/5-40
40+ years back when NZ went metric is where my rough and ready conversion originated and it's too long ago to remember from whom or where.
Back then when C temps were foisted upon us the quick conversion was to double them and add 30 which is very easily remembered.
Again, double C + 30....it's so simple.....not entirely accurate but it gave us something we could better relate to.
How it's stuck with me all those years, dunno.
works for me for rough, thanks.. easy to remember...before this trick i had no qlue how much is F, other than 100 sounds like a lot ;-)
On the size item for photos:
Sharpie
It will be handy so you can scribble all over the item if it's for ebay
Don't care.
30 degrees to me means wear a jacket, not stripping down to your underwear.
I let Google do the conversion if I REALLY need to.
Bloody ignorant 'murricans, you are. And blue!
Anyway, I don't remember if I mentioned it before, but I've got an US-built device (an audio matrix) with a web server. The server presents internal temperature in °F, on the wire, and does °C in javascript in the client. I screen scrape the value with curl, and convert it via some awk:
tempmtx=$(curl -s http://xxxx.xxxxxxxxx.xx/nortxe_status.html | \
awk -F\' '/^xPower/ {
split($2,values," ");
printf "%.2f",(5/9)*(values[6]-32);
};')
I was initially suspicious of my code, since:
MariaDB [envi]> SELECT temp FROM readings WHERE temp != 0.00 AND id = 4006 LIMIT 10 ;
+-------+
| temp |
+-------+
| 41.00 |
| 41.00 |
| 41.00 |
| 41.00 |
| 41.00 |
| 41.00 |
| 41.00 |
| 41.00 |
| 41.00 |
| 41.00 |
+-------+
10 rows in set (0.00 sec)
...but as it turns out, the people at Extron must be reading the internal temperature in °C off the sensor on the board, as an
int, converting it to °F (with IIRC 5 digits precision) for HTTP transport, and Javascripting it back to °C in the browser, for display. I see no other sensible explanation to every value being exactly a whole amount of °C...
Edit: This was my 666th post, slightly trailing Saskia.
Crawled out of bed this morning at 08:55, parked at the desk and find post counts of 666 and awk. Life is good
Crawled out of bed this morning at 08:55, parked at the desk and find post counts of 666 and awk. Life is good
Appropriate music...
I'd suggest this one instead:
Rough and ready conversion:
F = (C x 2) + 30
C = (F - 30)/2
I go with
1.8 and
32 - which is not at all rough
... and remember numbers like 20ºC = 68ºF; 30ºC = 86ºF; 40ºC = 104ºF for quick reference. Plus, of course 37ºC = 98.6ºF. It's this list that drives all my "ready reckoner" estimates
Eg the 38C bd139 posted a few days back 76 + 30 ~= 106F
Yeah ... not a very good conversion. It's nearly 6ºF high.
Was she a redhead?
- Does she look questionable?
- Is she a trouble-maker?
- Does she behave in weird ways?
- Is she scaring you?
I think, this should answer your question.
works for me for rough, thanks.. easy to remember...before this trick i had no qlue how much is F, other than 100 sounds like a lot ;-)
The irritating thing is that the decades in the Fahrenheit scale do correspond to different clothing and behaviour. So does Celcius, of course, but not as intuitively.
Does anyone know any techniques for cleaning up crusty HP metal parts i.e. the frames around the front of the instruments?
I assume they are anodised but I may be incorrect.
Ultrasonic ?
Sandblasting ?
CO2 blasting ?
In other news I won a tape deck on ebay.
I did consider getting someone to sandblast and re-anodise it but was quoted £50 a go
works for me for rough, thanks.. easy to remember...before this trick i had no qlue how much is F, other than 100 sounds like a lot ;-)
The irritating thing is that the decades in the Fahrenheit scale do correspond to different clothing and behaviour. So does Celcius, of course, but not as intuitively.
To me it is 100% intuitive. But I'm always dressing for a wide spectrum of temperatures by layering. This means I can go from -5 C° to +25 C° without changing what I carry (except moving things in and out of my backpack, adding/removing beanie and gloves, et c.), since you never know when you're stuck in a server room for an entire day.
CO2 blast and laser engrave. or laser rust remove. But that's probably overdoing it.
I did consider getting someone to sandblast and re-anodise it but was quoted £50 a go
Cleaning: How about some of these?
works for me for rough, thanks.. easy to remember...before this trick i had no qlue how much is F, other than 100 sounds like a lot ;-)
The irritating thing is that the decades in the Fahrenheit scale do correspond to different clothing and behaviour. So does Celcius, of course, but not as intuitively.
To me it is 100% intuitive. But I'm always dressing for a wide spectrum of temperatures by layering. This means I can go from -5 C° to +25 C° without changing what I carry (except moving things in and out of my backpack, adding/removing beanie and gloves, et c.), since you never know when you're stuck in a server room for an entire day.
In my case, the bioprene layer is covering this.
CO2 blast and laser engrave. or laser rust remove. But that's probably overdoing it.
Oh I didn not know that, see
here.
The process is called sublimation and is the act of changing the state of metal to a gas form, skipping the liquid phase. This is achieved using high frequency bursts of micro-plasma which - when combined with extremely high thermal pressure and shockwaves - can be set to a certain depth to skim away a surface of rust. So the device can be set to burn away pretty much any material that is layered over metal, be it paint, filler or dreaded rust
So I guess and green laser from a cd burner will not work...
Ultrasonic ?
Sandblasting ?
CO2 blasting ?
In other news I won a tape deck on ebay.
That is on complicated mechanism to work on for sure